Not Your Usual Dive Watches

Dive watches are a cornerstone of watch collecting, if, to mix architectural metaphors a niche can also be a cornerstone. Some of the most recognisable and desirable models of the last 65 years have been dive watches and model names. Examples include Submariner, Seadweller, and Seamaster, which are almost as well known as the brands they belong to.

There are still dive watches to uncover that do not share this level of renown and yet still manage to be as fascinating and provocative as the two from Fellows’ July 2017 Watch Sale.

Back in 1962 Favre-Leuba, one of Switzerland’s oldest watch brands, launched their Bivouac watch. Designed for climbers, the case contained a diaphragm that allowed air-pressure and hence altitude to be measured. Six years later they had refined the technology sufficiently to allow this pressure measurement to take the next logical step, from the heights to the depths. The Favre- Leuba Bathy 50 was the first watch with a mechanical depth gauge (note, the Bathy 160 released at the same time was no better, it just measured in feet rather than metres).

The dial was designed to focus only on the essential information a diver would need; the seconds hand was there to prove the watch was running but for little else, the hour hand shrunk to a vestigial stump. The key information was the minutes to be measured against an elapsed time bezel and the red depth hand to be read against the inner depth track. As an extra aid for the diver, prominent red sectors indicate on the depth gauge where decompression stops should be taken when ascending.

Re-launched last year as part of the Raider collection, this watch is quirky, innovative and practical.

Less complicated, but much more debated is the relatively rare Zenith S.58, a simple and elegant take on a 1950’s diver. Historically, the brand has much more affinity with pilot’s watches than diving which is part of the reason for the discussion. If the brand’s story is to be believed…and why not… the S stands for Super-ètanche as it is sealed to 150m, and the 58 represents 1958 – the Geophysical Year when numerous countries sent out scientific expeditions and watch brands sent out advertisements to tie in with this (Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Gruen, Ulysse Nardin, Zenith and others). The healthy scepticism that some watch collectors treat brands’ understanding of their own histories has led to this being doubted and challenged, that and a lack of belief that a ‘Geophysical Year’ could be a big thing, which it was… back then.

The alternative theory is that the watch is named after a particular model of Sikorsky Helicopter, the S.58, also known as the H-34. The use of this aircraft as a workhorse for a variety of army and navy uses has led to speculation that it was at the least hinted at when the watch was named, if not a direct tie-in. This, despite the fact that the Sikorsky S is very different, the aircraft is much more usually known as the H-34 and was never mentioned in any marketing activity; oh and of course, what the brand say themselves. This lively banter is what keeps watch forums alive and occasionally reveals exciting truths, but on this occasion maybe the boring story is the right one.

Lot 369, ZENITH – S.58 bracelet watch. £1,000 – £1,500

Lot 380, FAVRE-LEUBA – Bathy 50 bracelet watch. £2,000 – £3,000

The Watch Sale catalogue is now available to view online and in person at the following times:

18^th July 2017 12pm – 7pm (London)

22^nd July 2017 11am – 4pm (Birmingham)

24^th July 2017 10am – 4pm (Birmingham)

25^th July 2017 8.30am – 11.00am (Birmingham)

The auction will take place on Tuesday 25 July, starting at 11am.