Rolex introduced the Oysterquartz in 1977. It was a big change for Rolex in terms of both technology and design language. It was the first serially produced Rolex watch with an in-house quartz movement, the calibre 5035 in the Datejust and the 5055 in the Day-Date variant. Strikingly, it also embraced 1970s design aesthetics. The Oysterquartz featured an angular case and an integral bracelet. It was produced until 2001, when it was slowly phased out.

 

 

A High-End Response to the Quartz Crisis

During the height of the quartz crisis, Swiss watchmakers faced increased competition from the introduction of cheap, accurate and reliable quartz movements. While many brands produced their own versions, Rolex decided to produce an incredibly high-quality movement. Adapting some design architecture from their mechanical watches, Rolex’s quartz movements straddle something of a middle ground between their mechanical origins and the new realm of quartz movements.

 

Early Non-Chronometer Models

On introduction, the reference 17000 was not COSC chronometer certified. These examples feature a simpler ‘three-line’ dial, foregoing the ‘Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified’ text which features on most watches. In 1979, Rolex began to get their movements certified.

 

Low Production Numbers & Rising Collectability 

Owing to limited popularity and production ability, Rolex produced very low numbers of Oysterquartz watches, estimated to be around 25,000. This limited availability has contributed to the recent increased awareness and appreciation of the Oysterquartz. This growing fondness, alongside the growing popularity of other integral bracelet designs such as the Tissot PRX, may have influenced the design language of Rolex’s latest release, the Land-Dweller, another watch pitched by ‘The Crown’ as a great technological step.

 

A Rare Early Example at Auction

In our upcoming Watch & Watch Accessories auction, we have an early example of an Oysterquartz. The serial number of this watch dates it to approximately 1978 and features all the hallmarks of a watch from this period. The standout feature of the watch, however, must be the dial. Featuring the early ‘three-line’ dial, the watch has aged beautifully. Due to environmental factors such as sun exposure, the dial of this watch has gained an attractive and unique patina, leading to it affectionately being called a ‘tropical’ dial. This watch has estimates of £2,500-3,000 and will be going under the hammer on the 26th November.

 

Lot 70

Rolex - Oysterquartz

Estimate £2,500 - £3,000

 

Thinking of Selling Your Watch?

If you’ve got a watch you’re thinking of selling, now’s a great time. We’re currently taking entries for our upcoming auctions. Click here to book an appointment or fill out our online form, our expert team is here to help.