Category Archives: Jewellery

Lady King was the wife of Sir Carlton King, a chief justice of the Indian Civil Service. They had three daughters and resided in Lucknow, Allahabad and Delhi, with summers spent in Nainital. Also known as ‘Fanny’, Lady King’s mother was related to two well-known Indian artists’ families: the Daniells and Princeps. After Sir Carlton King ended his career at the Delhi High Court, the Kings returned to England in the 1930s. A photograph of Lady King Lady King’s Earrings These earrings show a typical torpedo-shaped drop Indian design of the 1830s and 1840s, featuring diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. We can assume from this style that they date from mid-nineteenth century India. One of the oldest techniques, introduced to India by the Mughals and perfected by skilled Indian craftsmen, is the jadayi style. This is a technique of embedding gems into gold as a framework without using adhesive, typically with a foil backing. This is a laborious process taking many days of skilled, careful work. The floral design is typical of Indian work since the Mughal period.  While these earrings are in this classical Indian style, they also show the European influence of the time by setting the diamonds in silver, with the coloured gems only set in gold. 19th c. diamond, pearl, ruby & emerald earrings, previously belonging to Lady King. Indian Jewellery This combination of an extravagant over-sized European design, mixture of metals, technique, and variety of gemstone cuttings can only be found at this one brief moment of a wonderful culmination of Anglo-Indian design. The 18th century British Raj adapted their style to their surroundings. As it was acceptable to appear on equal terms with the Nawabs. Gifts were swapped between potentates and so a new wave of cultural exchange began. Precious stones were acquired, with one of the gains easily brought back to England as transportable currency. Over time, more Ladies came to India in search of husbands. The desire was to follow European fashion but sending orders to London and back was not a timely enterprise. This led to the demand for locally made jewellery increasing. Few European jewellers settled in India, with many of their workers themselves natives. In Bombay, in 1864 it was noted that there were 10,670 native goldsmiths, compared to twenty Europeans. Indian jewellers had a singular ability to adapt their manufacture to suit foreign influences. They were able to replicate the styles that had been presented to them. The Popularity of Indian Jewellery As Indian jewels made their way to England, the Empress of India had a significant appreciation for the styles and forms associated, along with the fashionable aesthetes who also collected the jewels. Notables such as John Ruskin favoured the cabochon cut, harking to the manual labour of the artisans and with Queen Victoria wearing ‘uncut’ gems, the fashion spread throughout the nation. Pieces bought from International Exhibitions by the South Kensington Museum (now known as the Victoria & Albert Museum) secured access to designs to a wider audience. Soon, more recognised jewellers such as Giuliano adapted motifs, colours and forms, integrating Indian jewellery into the English mainstream. In the early 20th century another resurgence of Indian taste hit European shores. In 1911 George V’s Coronation durbar in Delhi brought Cartier into contact with influential and fashionable Maharajahs. They brought swathes of Indian colour and gemstones to be re-set to European taste. These bright colours and bold, repeating designs complemented the emerging Art Deco style and re-invigorated interest in Indian taste. Indian Jewellery at Auction Lot 298 19th c. diamond, pearl, ruby & emerald earrings, previously belonging to Lady King. Price Realised: £7,280.00 Fine Jewellery | Thursday 21st March 2024 Viewing times (ID required): London Monday 11th March 10:00-19:00 Tuesday 12th March 09:30-11:30 Birmingham Tuesday 19th March 10:00-16:00 Wednesday 20th March 10:00-16:00 Thursday 21st March 8:30-09:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Ben Randall | BA (Hons), GG, AJP
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Arnaud Vincent de Montpetit was an esteemed portrait miniature artist, born and raised in the serene countryside of France. Montpetit worked in both Bourg-en-Bresse and Paris. As his reputation grew he caught the attention of Royalty and the aristocracy. He is known for evolving various processes such as Eludoric painting. The method of painting oils on fabric under a film of water and fixing the miniature inside the glass. Arnaud Vincent de Montpetit signed his work ‘Montpetit’. History of Portrait Miniatures Portrait miniatures first appeared in the 16th century in the European royal courts. However, much later in the 18th century their popularity grew amongst the wealthy and royal.  They provide an insight into the window of customs, fashions and the intimate lives of the subjects. They can be inscribed with thoughtful messages on the reverse. Often set in precious metal and decorated with various gemstones from diamonds to paste. Intimate objects were often gifted to loved ones to demonstrate their loyalty or affection. Often sought after by soldiers who wanted to leave their likeness for their sweetheart or loved ones to cherish. Artists who created these miniatures were usually masters of their craft. They were able to capture the finest details on a very small canvas. Fellows are delighted to offer an 18th-century portrait miniature depicting King Louis XVI of France, signed Montpetit. Set in an 18ct gold and enamel surround in our upcoming Fine Jewellery auction. Not only does this subject offer an interesting history, but the miniature is accompanied with a fitted case. The front of the case displays the arms of Charles Ferdinand D’Artois, the Duke of Berry. King Louis XVI Louis XVI’s reign was from 1774 until his death in 1792. His reign was to host significant events, noticeably the French Revolution. Portrait Miniatures of Monarchs are not just personal tokens, they are pieces of history through the eyes of the artist. This allows us to see more intimate and personal lives of the crown. Louis XVI had a turbulent time on the throne. This was due to France’s involvement in the American Revolution war, along with a financial crisis. There were several attempts at reform in the country, but unfortunately, the crown struggled to achieve any meaningful change.  1789 was the beginning of the French Revolution, the revolutionary forces demanded radical shifts.  The King was accused of inciting an invasion of France by other European countries. This was an attempt to end the revolution to help him reclaim his control and power. Despite his defence and statements of innocence, the King was found guilty of high treason and was sentenced to death by Guillotine on January 21, 1793. Duke of Berry The Duke of Berry, Charles Ferdinand, was a member of the French royal family, born on January 24, 1778. He was the third son of the future King Charles X of France and his wife, Princess Maria Theresa of Savoy. As a member of the Bourbon dynasty, he was a grandson of King Louis, Dauphin of France, and thus, a nephew of King Louis XVI. After the overthrow of the Monarchy in France, he lived in exile for much of his life. With the Fall of Napoleon, he returned to France with his Family. His wife Princess Maria-Carolie of Naples and Sicily was known for her strong personality and royalist beliefs. The couple had two children together. Louise, who died in infancy, and Henri, Duke of Bordeaux, who later became known as Henry V. Tragically, The Duke’s life was cut short when he was assassinated by a lone gunman named Louis Pierre Louvel on February 13, 1820, while leaving the Paris Opera with his wife. Arnaud Vincent de Montpetit at Auction Lot 763 Portrait miniature of Louis XVI, signed Montpetit. Price Realised: £2,080.00 Fine Jewellery | Thursday 21st March 2024 Viewing times (ID required): London Monday 11th March 10:00-19:00 Tuesday 12th March 09:30-11:30 Birmingham Tuesday 19th March 10:00-16:00 Wednesday 20th March 10:00-16:00 Thursday 21st March 8:30-09:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Lindsay Campbell | FGA, DGA
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Mrs Charlotte Isabella Newman (née Gibbs) (1836-1920) was a pioneering female jewellery designer and maker in the 19th century. Mrs Newman’s Early life As a young woman, she studied at the Government School of Design, at Somerset House in London (better known to us today as the Royal College of Art) and continued to educate herself, even travelling to Paris and further around Europe, taking inspiration from the various museums she visited on the continent.  Back in England, she began her career as an apprentice to John Brogden, a prominent goldsmith and manufacturing jeweller of the Victorian era. Brogden’s designs were inspired by archaeological and Renaissance artefacts. Isabella was equally captivated by these, and she took inspiration from the techniques of the past, incorporating them into the jewellery, such as granulation, which originated approximately 5000 years ago, and consists of covering a surface in granules of precious metal.  Brogden and Newman exhibited at the World’s Fair exhibitions in Paris, in 1867 and 1878. The 1878 fair was a particular success for them both, with Brogden being awarded the Légion d’honneur and Newman the Médaille d’honneur for her contribution to the work. Mrs Newman’s When John Brogden passed away in 1884, Charlotte started her own Jewellery business, incorporating many aspects of Brogden’s workshop, including some of the workers. Based in the bustling West End of London, and proudly bearing the name “Mrs Newman’s”, the business quickly took off, attracting the interest of various journalists. Word spread quickly about this talented jeweller and goldsmith. Her reputation increased and she enjoyed commissions from far and wide- including one for the Empress of Russia, in 1899.  Mrs Newman moved her business in 1897 to 10, Saville Row. She continued to produce Jewellery there, keeping the window display sparse as she believed this would protect her designs from being copied.  Whilst Charlotte enjoyed many successes, she was often prevented from succeeding further in her work. She was barred from taking part in certain artistic organisations, purely due to the fact she was female. However, she was invited to give a lecture at the Royal Society of Arts in 1884, on the art of goldsmithing. She passed away in January 1920. However, her legacy as the leading ‘lady goldsmith’ of the Victorian era lives on, with her jewellery being featured in the William & Judith Bolinger Gallery at the V&A Museum in London.  Mrs Newman at Auction Today Mrs Newman’s jewellery appears at auction infrequently. The scope of her inspiration led to her using a variety of gemstones and enamels, resulting in a fine range of pieces to suit many tastes. Lot 388 Victorian gold aquamarine necklace, by Mrs. Newman. Estimate £3,500 – £4,500 Fine Jewellery | Thursday 21st March 2024 Viewing times (ID required): London Monday 11th March 10:00-19:00 Tuesday 12th March 09:30-11:30 Birmingham Tuesday 19th March 10:00-16:00 Wednesday 20th March 10:00-16:00 Thursday 21st March 8:30-09:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Helen Foster | BA (Hons)
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Plastic Prisoner of War Rings During World War II, prisoners of war had limited resources. Creative outlets were scarce, however, this only bred ingenuity. One example of this is plastic prisoner-of-war rings made by Allied POWs. These rings were often crafted from materials like Bakelite, a type of plastic that was commonly used at the time. POWs would fashion these by carving, shaping, and polishing the plastic into rings that could be worn as jewellery or traded with other prisoners or guards. While conditions varied greatly depending on the camp and the treatment of the POWs, crafting items like these rings provided a creative outlet and a way to pass the time during internment. Celluloid plastic rings, like those made of Bakelite, were also crafted by prisoners of war during this time. Celluloid was a type of early plastic that was widely used in the early 20th century for items such as jewellery, combs, and other small accessories. Like the process for making Bakelite rings, POWs would have used whatever materials they could scavenge or obtain to create these rings. Celluloid was relatively easy to shape and mould when heated. As such, it would have been a suitable material for crafting jewellery in a prison camp environment. Like other items made by POWs during wartime, these rings served multiple purposes. They could be used as personal adornments, traded for necessities or favours within the camp, or even hidden as keepsakes or mementoes of their time in captivity. Many of these rings, such as lot 957, would have a small photo of a loved one encapsulated within the plastic. Prisoner of War Ring at Auction Lot 957 Early plastic prison ring Price Realised: £62.40 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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The ‘Beryl’ family includes gemstones that have the same chemical composition but differ in colour. All beryls are beryllium aluminium silicate, Be3Al2(SiO3)6 and the various colours are caused, as we have seen for other gemstones before, by the metallic trace elements that happen to be incorporated in the chemical composition of the growing crystals. When beryl crystals are pure, they will remain colourless. The green variety of beryl is the well-known emerald1. The blue variety is aquamarine2. The yellow is called heliodor3. The pink variety is morganite, and the colourless is called goshenite. Beryls have a hardness of 7.5-8 in the Mohs’ scale and are commonly used in jewellery. However, some care should be applied when handling and wearing them, especially if set in rings, as beryls are brittle stones and can chip easily. This was the reason why the emerald cut, a rectangular shape with the cut-off corners, was invented. This cut aims to show off the colour of the gemstones thanks to the rectangular-shape table. But also, to protect its corner from accidental damage. 1 The name emerald comes from the ancient Greek ‘smaragdos’ which meant ‘green gems’ 2 ‘Aqua’ means ‘water’ in Latin and ‘marina’ means ‘of the sea’ 3 ‘Helios’ means ‘sun’ in Greek. Beryls: Emeralds Amongst the so-called ‘precious’ stones, emerald is the most brittle and included. However, these features do not affect the lure that this green gemstone has had over the centuries. On the contrary, they give it character and make it even more interesting. History wants Cleopatra to be the first ruler to have loved emeralds and many stories about the jewellery she wore and gifted to dignitaries have reached us today. One of the myths about ‘Cleopatra’s emerald mines’ was confirmed in 1800s when one of the oldest emerald mines was discovered in the Egypt Desert in the mountain valley of Wadi Sikait. Although emeralds appear in literature fairly early and frequently, sources from this time can be misleading because the name ‘smeragdos’ was used for any green gem, emeralds as well as peridots and garnets, and later, in the XVI century, tourmalines were also confused with this beautiful gemstone. Nowadays, the most sought-after emeralds are mined in Colombia. Good-clarity emeralds are one of the most expensive gemstones on the market. The intense green colour is caused by the presence of Chromium (Cr), Vanadium (V) and Iron (Fe) within the beryl structure. If the colour is not intense enough, the gemstone would be called green beryl instead of emerald. The market request influences what hue is more appealing and an unbalanced concentration of the trace elements will cause either yellowish or blueish tints. Lot 191 Rectangular-shape emerald, 5.38ct Price Realised: £885.00 Lot 198 Oval-shape emerald, 3.64ct Price Realised: £180.00 Lot 192 Oval-shape emerald, 1.34ct Price Realised: £187.50 Beryls: Aquamarine Aquamarines have fascinated humans for a long time. There are many interesting myths about this blue gemstone believed to come from the sea. It was used to cure travel sickness as well as offered to the sea to calm particularly strong sea storms and is believed to soothe relationships. The chemical difference from emeralds is identifiable in the strong presence of Iron (Fe) which also explains why certain emeralds that have a stronger iron content tend to have a bluish-green hue. As for emeralds, the secondary hues of these gemstones can make a big difference in their value. If greenish-blue aquamarines used to be very popular, in the past decades the appeal has shifted to deepest blue colours. Brazil used to be the most renowned country for aquamarine mines. Especially, the Santa Maria aquamarines, so called from the name of the Santa Maria de Itabira mine. Today Africa is becoming one top areas for a quantity of aquamarine mined. Lot 225 Oval-shape aquamarine, 82.69ct Price Realised: £1,650.00 Lot 229 Rectangular-shape aquamarine, 2.81ct Price Realised: £150.00 Lot 234 Rectangular-shape aquamarine, 13.79ct Price Realised: £75.00 Beryls: Heliodor The yellow variety of beryl is called heliodor or in the trade sometimes ‘golden beryl’ if the secondary hue is a strong orangish-yellow. The colour is caused once again by the presence of Iron, as with aquamarine, however with a different charge (Fe3+). Although being chemically very similar to aquamarine, the value of heliodor on the market could not be more different. Lot 261 Pear-shape heliodor, 12.77ct Price Realised: £72.00 Lot 271 Oval-shape heliodor, 10.43ct Price Realised: £97.50 Lot 272 Rectangular-shape heliodor, 11.68ct Estimate: £40 – £60 Beryls: Morganite With its soft pink hue, this beryl is coloured by Manganese (Mn) and it was only recognised in its own right in 1911 by George Frederick Kunz who named it after his friend, client and gemstones collector J. P. Morgan. In the rough form, morganite often displays a salmon pink hue but as generally happens, crystals are heat treated to obtain a more appealing colour. In this case, the pink hues will become more prominent than the orange. These colour differences have also translated in gemstones coming from mines in Brazil or in Africa, with some morganites showing balanced peachy or pastel pink hues. The intensity of the colour is proven to be the most important feature for a morganite and will determine its price on the market. Lot 253 Pear-shape morganite, 8.73ct Price Realised: £247.50 Lot 259 Two briolette-shape morganites, 41.65ct Price Realised: £54.00 Lot 520 Assorted rough morganites, 328.07ct Price Realised: £180.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Arianna Pedrazzoli BA (Hons), MLitt, FGA | Gemstone Manager
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Jeremy Bentham What do you think of when I say the word: mummy? Perhaps you think of Tutenkamun’s funerary mask, and last-minute toilet roll Halloween costumes, or maybe (like me) you think of Brendan Fraser and Rachel Weisz. I doubt, however, that you think of 19th-century philosophers. Jeremy Bentham wanted to change that. Immortalised in the corridors of UCL, sits the mummified body of Jeremy Bentham. Now a local celebrity among the students, Bentham was once known for more than just his corpse. During his lifetime he was a somewhat controversial but hugely influential philosopher, jurist, and social reformer. Upon his death, he commissioned 26 mourning rings to be made. Our upcoming Fine Jewellery auction will feature one of these rings, dedicated to Dr Neil Arnott. This ring has been with the Arnott family since it was made, making this the first time that it has been open to the public to view and to bid. The hunt to collect these 26 rings has been ongoing for several years, we are delighted to have uncovered another! Life and Work Jeremy Bentham lived from 1748 to 1832 and is best known for his development of utilitarianism, a consequentialist ethical theory that judges actions by their outcomes in terms of pleasure and pain. Bentham’s early life was marked by precocious intellectual talent, evident in his enrollment at Oxford University at the age of just 12. He later pursued legal studies and was called to the bar, but his true passion lay in philosophy and social reform. In addition to his renowned philosophy of utilitarianism, he played a key role in founding University College London (UCL). Bentham’s vision for UCL emphasized practical, secular education accessible to all, regardless of social or religious background. He championed critical thinking and the application of knowledge to societal issues. Though he didn’t live to see its founding, Bentham’s influence shaped UCL’s ethos as a pioneering institution committed to intellectual freedom and social progress. Utilitarianism and Beliefs Utilitarianism, Bentham’s most significant contribution, posits that the morally right action is the one that maximises overall happiness or pleasure and minimises suffering or pain for the greatest number of people. However, Bentham’s work extended beyond philosophy. He was notable in fields such as economics, politics, and law. He advocated for legal and penal reform, arguing for the reduction of unnecessary suffering in prisons and the justice system. His ideas influenced many subsequent thinkers, including John Stuart Mill, who refined and popularized utilitarianism in the 19th century. Bentham was a staunch advocate for individual freedoms and civil liberties, arguing for the protection of rights such as freedom of speech, freedom of religion, and the right to participate in democratic governance. He believed that a just society was one in which individuals were free to pursue their interests as long as they did not infringe upon the rights of others. He was also one of the earliest people to speak out in favour of women’s rights, animal rights, and the decriminalisation of homosexuality. Jeremy Bentham: Death and Auto-Icon Bentham seemed to have a preoccupation with his mortality and eventual death. He wrote his first will and testament when he was just 21. Consistent with his utilitarianism beliefs, Bentham had a pragmatic approach to end-of-life. He passed away on June 6, 1832, at the age of 84. Upon his death, Bentham left specific instructions for the preservation of his body through a process called auto-iconisation. Following his wishes, his body was dissected, embalmed, and dressed in his usual attire. His preserved skeleton was then encased within a wooden frame, topped with a wax head sculpted to resemble him. This auto-icon, as Bentham termed it, was intended to serve as a visual reminder of his ideas and principles. Bentham’s auto-icon was initially kept in a wooden cabinet, but it now resides in a specially designed glass case at UCL. Visitors can view the auto-icon and contemplate the legacy of one of history’s most influential philosophers. Originally, Bentham had requested that his mummified head sit atop his body. Unfortunately, the preservation process was unsuccessfully resulting in a rather scary sight. It was therefore decided by University administration, to keep his head in their archives – although they sometimes bring it out for special exhibitions! The Mourning Rings Among his slightly odd requests for his death, he also commissioned 26 mourning rings. They featured his silhouette and a lock of his hair. These rings have now been scattered around the world, with people hunting to find them! The 26 recipients of these rings were: Dr Neil Arnott Sarah Austin Henry Bickersteth Felix Bodin John Bowring Samuel Cartwright Edwin Chadwick Mary Louise de Chesnel Richard Doane Marie-Joseph Paul Yves Roch Gilber du Motier, Marquis de Lafayette Albany Fonblanque James Harfield John Stuart Mill General William Miller Joseph Parkes Francis Place Jean-Baptiste Say Thomas Southwood Smith William Stockwell William Tait Thomas Perronet Thompson John Tyrrell José Cecilio del Valle Jean-Sylvain de Weyer Mary Watson George Wheatley We are delighted that our upcoming Fine Jewellery auction will feature one of these rings, once belonging to Dr Neil Arnott. Jeremy Bentham’s Mourning Ring This ring had been in Dr Neil Arnott’s family since it was first bequeathed to him in Bentham’s will. It came to Fellows by direct descent, meaning that this is the first time that this ring has been publically identified and has been open to the public to view and to bid. We are thrilled to offer to auction another one of these 26 historic rings. Similar rings have portraits of Bentham attributed to John Field. Gold mourning ring, for Jeremy Bentham Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000 Fine Jewellery | Thursday 21st March 2024 Viewing times (ID required): London Tuesday 12th March 12:00-19:00 Wednesday 13th March 10:00-16:00 Birmingham Tuesday 19th March 10:00-16:00 Wednesday 20th March 10:00-16:00 Thursday 21st March 8:30-10:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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We often see mourning rings in our jewellery auctions. Normally, the story we try to uncover is about who the ring commemorates. This is especially true in the case of our Jeremy Bentham mourning ring. However, the story of Jeremy Bentham’s ring goes far deeper than this. Bentham had 26 rings made during his lifetime to commemorate, perhaps prematurely, his death. His will stipulated that these 26 rings would be given to 26 of his closest friends and family. Now, almost 200 years later, these rings are scattered throughout the world, and the hunt to collect them is well and truly underway. In our upcoming Fine Jewellery auction, we are excited to offer to auction one of these rings, dedicated to Dr Neil Arnott. Dr Neil Arnott Arnott’s relationship with Bentham is somewhat unclear. They ran in very similar circles and shared a close mutual friend – Sir Edwin Chadwick (another ‘ring-owner’), so it is presumed that Arnott and Bentham were also close friends. Arnott, despite coming from a family of master bakers, was a renowned doctor and inventor. He studied at the University of Aberdeen before going to London to learn under Sir Everard Home. By the age of 18, he was appointed a full surgeon. He travelled to China with the East India Company where he worked as a surgeon, before he settled in London where he practised from 1811 – 1854. Throughout his life he gained a national reputation, he gave lectures and published several works, was one of the founders of the University of London, and was made physician to the likes of the French and Spanish embassies, and in 1837, the Queen. Despite being mostly forgotten for his work as a doctor today, Arnott definitely left his own mark on society. Whilst you would not be blamed for not recognising his name, I highly doubt you would not be familiar with his most famous invention: the waterbed. Yes! This cultural icon of the 70s dates back to 19th-century medicine. Arnott originally created it to prevent bedsores in those who were bedbound. This design later led him to invent a similar water-filled chair which aimed to prevent seasickness! Arnott clearly made an impression on Bentham in order to receive one of these coveted rings. Around the band of the ring, you can read the engraving: Memento for Dr Neil Arnott. Jeremy Bentham’s Mourning Ring Dr Neil Arnott’s ring has been in the Arnott family since it was first bequeathed to him in Bentham’s will. As the hunt for these rings has been ongoing for many years now, we are excited that we are able to offer this ring, for the first time, to auction. It came to Fellows by descent, meaning that this ring has never been available for the public to view or to bid. It is undeniably exciting to have discovered another one of these 26 rings, the puzzle pieces seem to be fitting together! Gold mourning ring, for Jeremy Bentham Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000 Fine Jewellery | Thursday 21st March 2024 Viewing times (ID required): London Tuesday 12th March 12:00-19:00 Wednesday 13th March 10:00-16:00 Birmingham Tuesday 19th March 10:00-16:00 Wednesday 20th March 10:00-16:00 Thursday 21st March 8:30-10:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZxgtNUfQTo A rare, colonial Australian brooch has sold for under £10,000 at Fellows Auctioneers in Birmingham. Pieces with aboriginal details are infrequently offered for sale at auction. The item depicts an emu and kangaroo amongst native flora – a common theme in Australian Jewellery. Perhaps slightly more unusual is the incorporation of an aboriginal person. The piece garnered a lot of interest before the sale and, against an estimate of £500 – £700, the brooch sold for over ten times its estimate for a hammer price of £7,300 (£9,314.80 including fees). After frantic bidding over two telephone lines, bidders in the room and online, the bids kept rising until an Australian buyer bought the fascinating piece of jewellery over the internet. This brooch was the highlight of Fellows’ monthly Antique & Modern Jewellery auction on Thursday 24th January 2019. Alex Duffy, Jewellery Specialist at Fellows Auctioneers, said “The brooch is a beautifully crafted example of Australian colonial jewellery, a rare commodity for which modern-day Australians show a wonderful appreciation. Among the more common motifs of the emu and kangaroo, this particular piece features an Aboriginal person seated among the flora and fauna. This is something I have never previously come across in jewellery of this period.” A Similar Example in 2024 In our upcoming Jewellery auction on January 13th, we have a similar example: Lot 14 Australian brooch & pendant Estimate: £70 – £100 Lot 14 in Fellows’ current Jewellery Timed Auction is an ‘Advance Australia’ pendant. Along with an early 20th century 9ct gold Australian Continent brooch. The pendant with marks to indicate 9ct gold, its length is 3.1 cm and its weight is 1.6gms. The pendant is in an overall good condition with surface scratches/wear in keeping with general age and wear. Its estimate is £70-100. Jewellery | Day One & Day Two – Tuesday 13th & Wednesday 14th of February Viewing Times (ID required): BirminghamMonday 12th February 10:00-16:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
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Valentine’s Day Gifts Valentine’s Day is just around the corner, and it’s the perfect time to show your loved one how much you care. Whether you’re in a new relationship or have been together for years, thoughtful Valentine’s Day gifts can make all the difference. If you’re looking for gift ideas, there are plenty of options. A classic bouquet of roses is always a romantic choice, but you could also consider something more unique, like a personalized photo album or a piece of jewellery. Of course, here at Fellows, we would always suggest a piece of jewellery! And so today we’ve asked some of our members of staff to pick out items from our upcoming sale that they would like to receive, hopefully to give you some inspiration! Valentine’s Day Gifts: Our Team Picks Patricia’s Pick: Eros is the Greek god of love, can’t think of a better sentiment to receive on Valentine’s Day than Cupid himself. Lot 1007 9ct gold Eros pendant Estimate: £90 – £140 Georgie’s Pick: I love the design of the Irish Claddagh ring, but I also like what the ‘Heart in hands’ represents – Love Loyalty and Friendship. This ring would remind me of the people I care for and love. Especially my family, including my grandparents who were Irish. Lot 668 9ct gold claddagh ring Estimate: £100 – £150 Krishna’s Pick: The heart pendant with its intricate design featuring birds and a floral chain is stunning. I believe it’s a beautiful statement piece that could effortlessly elevate any outfit. Also, the combination of the ruby’s deep red hue and the symbolic elements of birds and flowers make it a uniquely special and romantic choice. Lot 282 Synthetic ruby & paste necklace Estimate: £1,000 – £1,500 Eve’s Pick: The timelessly elegant design of this bangle, complete with two split pearl intertwined hearts, makes it a lovely gift for Valentines Day. The simplicity of the bangle makes it a versatile piece, while the hearts serve perfectly as a symbol of love. Representing purity, loyalty, and serenity, with associations to Aphrodite, the goddess of love, the beautiful split pearls create a complete essence of romance, conveying love, and devotion. Lot 1027 Split pearl double heart bangle Estimate: £150 – £200 Jewellery | Day One & Day Two – Tuesday 13th & Wednesday 14th of February Viewing Times (ID required): BirminghamMonday 12th February 10:00-16:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Patricia Preuschoff | Catalogue Manager, Handbags and Accessories Georgie Fellows | Designer Assistant Krishna Vara | Social Media Executive Eve Darby | Jewellery Administrator
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So you’re thinking of popping the question and tying the knot? What should you look for when buying an engagement ring? The most important thing to consider when buying a ring is your paramour’s taste. Whether you go for a regal sapphire and diamond cluster ring or a classic diamond single stone ring make sure you consider their taste. Many people nowadays propose with a small “promise ring” and then pick the forever ring together. If you would like to pick the ring yourself, there are important factors to consider. It might be worth talking to a close friend or family member. Ask yourself: a) What type of jewellery does your loved one currently wear? b) Do they favour silver, yellow gold or platinum pieces? c) Have they mentioned whether they like the idea of an antique piece with history? d) Do they have a favourite colour? Maybe you can incorporate that into the ring. Diamond Engagement Ring Top Tips from Our Experts When buying diamonds, you are advised to consider the “four cs” Carat – You will see this abbreviated to “ct” in descriptions. Clarity – The best clarity is IF (internally flawless, meaning there are no inclusions visible even to the most experienced grader) and the most included stones are described as I3 (obvious inclusions, visible to the unaided eye). Colour – the most perfect and expensive diamonds are “colourless”. It is also described on a scale with the rarest colour being D and the more tinted stones coming in at M and N. Cut – The modern round brilliant cut is by far the most popular cut when it comes to diamonds but the emerald cut (rectangular) is also popular. Which Gemstones to Pick for Your Engagement Ring To make it even more personal and special you could pick the stone that is associated with the month in which your loved one was born. Some gemstones are less suited for everyday wear than others. Here are some that will hold up to the rigours of daily life: Sapphire (You can get many colours) Ruby (Red) Diamond (White or coloured) Emerald (Green) Topaz (Light pink or yellow) Morganite (Pretty pink colour) Amethyst (Purple) Tourmaline (Green, Red or Watermelon) Spinel (Red) Sizing Your Engagement Ring Ensuring you get the right size ring for your loved one can be daunting. Luckily for you, we are here to help. We have put together a ‘Ring Size Guide’ that gives you the option of finding the correct ring size with or without your partner knowing. All you need to do is click the link here to visit our ‘Ring Size Guide’ with a downloadable PDF to help. The team at Fellows are always happy to provide extra photos of rings on hands to give you more of an idea of what it would look like too. Engagement Rings at Auction: Our Expert’s Top Picks Lot 4 Diamond single-stone ring Price Realised: £507.00 Lot 65 Platinum diamond cluster ring, with diamond shoulders Price Realised: £1,625.00 Lot 263 18ct gold diamond & sapphire three-stone ring Price Realised: £676.00 Lot 423 A diamond five-stone ring Estimate: £1,200 – £1,800 Lot 590 Early 20th century vari-cut diamond cluster ring Price Realised: £247.00 Lot 997 Diamond ring Estimate: £200 – £300 Talk to an Expert The jewellery team at Fellows are happy to help in any way possible, from advising on what would fall inside your budget to finding the perfect ring. Email: hello@fellows.co.uk Phone: 0121 212 2131 Check out our upcoming auctions here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
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When you think of luxury jewellery, gold, and gemstones, I highly doubt that you also think of…frogs, understandably. However, these small green amphibians, have a long history and relationship with humans. As such, the image of them is sprinkled throughout human culture all around the world. Frogs have made their way into our literature, our art, and even our jewellery. Today, we’re going to dive into the history of frog jewellery, and perhaps inspire you to invest in your own little piece of cultural history. Symbolism of Frogs Throughout History When looking back on history, frogs crop up as having symbolic meaning throughout the world and at different points in time. In Native America, frogs represented wisdom and wealth. In Chinese culture, the frog spirit Ch’ing-Wa Sheng is associated with good luck in business. The ancient Egyptians believed in the frog-goddess Heqet, and in classical antiquity, frogs were associated with Aphrodite. Aztec frog neck ornaments. Image credit to The Met Museum in New York However, for the most part, humans tend to associate frogs with water sources. For example, in Ancient Mexico, the Aztec people associated frogs with rain and water. These associations lend themselves well to the idea of rejuvenation, life, and fertility – a common theme throughout frog-based mythology. It is also believed that the Aztec people interpreted frogs’ crouching position, as similar to women during labor and childbirth. This association of frogs with fertility is one of the most prominent throughout the ancient Americas. Because of this, frogs are quite a common motif throughout the different civilisations. We see frogs in the Coclé, Moche, and Chiriquí cultures. The Met Museum in New York has a fantastic collection of ancient jewellery and quite a few pieces include frogs! Frog Jewellery at Auction We regularly see frog-themed jewellery come through our auctions. Today these pieces are mostly novelties, they lack the same symbolic quality as the ancient pieces. However, they still are charming additions to any jewellery collection and a sweet nod to humanity’s long and complex relationship with these four-legged amphibians. Lot 209 Diamond set frog earrings Estimate: £2,500 – £3,500 Lot 219 18ct gold garnet frog brooch, by E. Wolfe & Co. Estimate: £1,400 – £2,000 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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The Vienna Secession The Vienna Secession was founded in 1897. It was a revolutionary art movement in Vienna, Austria. It emerged as a response to the academic constraints of traditional art and aimed to break free from conventional norms. This is similar to the ideas of the Arts & Crafts movement which mainly took place in England. The Secessionists, who included artists like Gustav Klimt, believed in the autonomy of art. They emphasized the need for innovation as well as individual expression. They sought to create a platform for avant-garde artists to explore new styles and ideas. The Secessionists embraced various art forms, including painting, sculpture, and architecture, fostering a collaborative and interdisciplinary approach. One of their most iconic achievements was the construction of the Secession Building, a unique structure designed by Joseph Maria Olbrich, featuring a distinctive dome covered in golden laurel leaves. Wiener Werkstätte Two of the founders of this movement, Koloman Moser and Josef Hoffmann, went on to create the Wiener Werkstätte in 1903: literally, Vienna Workshops. The workshops brought together a diverse group of artists, including architects, designers, and craftsmen, to nurture collaboration and innovation. Influenced by the ideas of Gesamtkunstwerk, or total artwork, the Wiener Werkstätte aimed to create integration between various artistic disciplines, such as architecture, furniture, textiles, as well as graphic design. Renowned for their distinctive geometric patterns and sinuous simplicity, creations from these workshops became synonymous with the Art Nouveau and later the Secessionist movements. One area that flourished at these workshops, was jewellery. Characterised by geometric shapes and vibrant enamel work, the Wiener Werkstätte’s jewellery showcased a harmonious blend of fine craftsmanship and artistic innovation. The jewellery embraced modern aesthetics, rejecting the ornate styles of the past. Much like Arts & Crafts and Art Nouveau, Wiener Werkstätte’s impact extended beyond Austria, influencing the development of modern design internationally. However, financial challenges and the upheavals of World War I led to the eventual dissolution of the Wiener Werkstätte in 1932. Despite its relatively short existence, the Wiener Werkstätte left an enduring legacy, shaping the trajectory of 20th-century design and emphasizing the importance of craftsmanship in the artistic process. Wiener Werkstätte at Auction Lot 16 Silver gilt gem necklace, by the Wiener Werkstätte Price Realised: £3,315.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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The Caterpillar Club The humble Caterpillar Club brooch. Measuring no more than 2 centimetres, these miniature lapel pins may seem unassuming. But if you take a closer look, if you perhaps turned one over, and if you look closely at the reverse – you will see a name. Behind that name, there will undoubtedly be a story. Here at Fellows, we have been privileged enough to tell four of these stories and this January for our Jewellery auction we’re able to tell a fifth. These brooches, gold with garnet eyes, were awarded to those people who bailed out of an aircraft and subsequently survived through the use of a parachute. More specifically, an Irvin Air Chute parachute. Because they are inscribed with the name of the person who jumped, we are often able to trace that person through military records to find service numbers and details of the event. As a matter of fact, just last year we were able to trace the life of C E Stead. Not only did we uncover more about his life before he joined the RAF, but we were able to find a first-person account of the incident that earned him his place in this elusive club. S. C. Alldis The most recent pin that we are fortunate to put to auction once belonged to S C Alldis, who we believe to be Stanley Cranston Alldis, service number: 1398378. Alldis was born in Sussex, in 1922. By the time WWII began, he would’ve been just 17 years old. He returned home at the end of the war and later married his wife, Brenda, in 1953 at age 31. He passed away aged 79 in 2002. While we might not have that much information about Alldis and his life at home, we do know that in 1957 he was awarded the Air Force Cross, examples of which we have seen in previous auctions. 11th November 1944 On the 11th of November 1944 at 16:54 an Avro Lancaster MK 1 took off, carrying seven men from No. 57 Squadron. Their names were Samuel Bowden (pilot), Lewis Wolfe Nagley (navigator), Cyril ‘Titch’ Bayford (air gunner), Sidney Charles Green (air gunner), Arthur Brett (flight engineer), James Aloysius McLaughlin (wireless operator), and Stanley Cranston Alldis (bomb aimer). Image credit to the Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre They departed from East Kirby for an operation against the Rhenania-Ossag oil refinery in Hamburg. Just over two hours later, at 19:27 the Lancaster was hit with exploding shells fired from the ground. On the first impact, the flak hit one of the engines and a rear turret which were subsequently torn off. Image credit to the Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre The remainder of the aircraft bounced and flew for over a kilometre until it finally crash-landed just outside Hamburg, near Beckdorf. Five out of the seven men on board were unfortunately lost to this accident. It is believed that the two survivors bailed out of the aircraft via parachute; Lewis Wolfe Nagley and Stanley Cranston Alldis, both men were then taken prisoner of war. In 2009 after over 60 years of research, the son of Cyril Bayford – the air gunner on board, was eventually able to track down the site of the crash. Consequently, he enlisted support from eyewitnesses and locals from the surrounding area, and with the assistance of an archaeologist, they were able to excavate the remnants of the plane crash. They found hundreds of items, including the pilot’s watch strap which was then returned to his family and given to his great nephew. Many of the items on board have now been returned to East Kirkby. These items are now part of the collection at the Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre. Sgt S. C. Alldis’s Caterpillar Club Brooch Shortly after bailing from the aircraft, Alldis was taken to and held at Stalag Luft 7 Bankau, near Kreuzburg. He was only 22 years old. Owing to this incident, Alldis earned a place in the Caterpillar Club. Our first Jewellery auction of the year will feature his brooch that commemorates this undeniably brave feat. Lot 55 Gold World War Two Irvin Caterpillar Club brooch Price Realised: £1,365.00 Our Antiques specialist, Alison Snowdon said: “We are thrilled to have had another Caterpillar Club consigned for our upcoming jewellery auction. Awarded to Stanley Cranston Alldis, this little gold brooch marks a moment of bravery with a life saved by the use of a parachute“. Previous Caterpillar Club Brooches at Fellows Lot 594 Two WWII ‘Caterpillar Club’ badges, engraved ‘P/O. C E Stead’, one gold Price Realised: £2,795.00 Lot 17 A 9ct gold red enamel ‘Caterpillar Club’ badge, engraved ‘Sgt. W. H. T. Farmer’ Price Realised: £2,169.20 Lot 4 A gold ‘Caterpillar Club’ brooch Price Realised: £1,173.92 Lot 11 A ‘Caterpillar Club’ brooch Price Realised: £1,531.20 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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Colombian Emeralds Not all gemstones are made equally! Some are far more desirable than others, for example, Sri Lankan, Burmese, and Padparadscha sapphires. However, when it comes to emeralds, it is Colombian emeralds that are world-renowned for their exceptional quality, rich colour, and unparalleled beauty. Mined from the country’s emerald-rich regions, particularly in the Andes, these gemstones have been coveted for centuries. The Muzo, Chivor, and Coscuez mines are the primary sources of these stunning stones. As a matter of fact, the Muzo mine is – to this day, the most important emerald mine in the world. Their unique geological conditions are what give these gems their distinctive green hue and high clarity. Because of this, the finest Colombian emeralds are considered to be among the most valuable and rarest gemstones in the world. They are often highly sought after by collectors, jewellers, as well as gemstone connoisseurs. Therefore, if you’re looking for a truly exceptional gemstone, a Colombian emerald will be an excellent and timeless choice. Emeralds have been officially mined in Colombia for over 500 years, and the industry has played a significant role in the country’s economy as well as culture. Because of this, the Colombian government has implemented regulations to ensure that the mining of these emeralds is responsible and sustainable. The History of Colombian Emeralds The first recorded emerald mines date back over 2000 years to Ancient Egypt in 330 BC. One of the most famous historical figures to love these green stones was Cleopatra. While she was Queen she claimed ownership of all the emerald mines in the Egyptian empire. To the Egyptians, emeralds were a symbol of protection, and they were believed to have the power to predict future events. In the Americas, archaeologists believe that pre-Colombian people such as the Muzo people, had been mining emeralds since 500 AD. This is apparent in their mythology and culture. There is one particularly important myth, the story of Fura and Tena, that firmly places emerald at the centre of cultural development. The myth goes that the supreme god, Are, created Fura and Tena to populate the world. They were promised eternal youth as long as they stayed faithful to one another – Fura, however, did not remain faithful. Eternal youth was taken away from them and they aged rapidly. Are then took pity on the pair, and instead turned them into huge cliffs in order to protect them from the elements. In these cliffs, the Muzo people found emeralds and believed them to be Fura’s tears. The two cliffs are considered sacred and are still the official guardians of Colombia’s emerald zone. In the 16th century, the Spanish conquistadors overpowered many of the indigenous people in the Americas and subsequently took over emerald mining. Colombian Emeralds at Auction Lot 293 Colombian Emerald and diamond ring Estimate: £10,000 – £15,000 Alongside this stunning Colombian example, we have several other emeralds in our auction. Our particular favourites are: Lot 29 Emerald & diamond earrings Estimate: £600 – £800 Lot 146 Victorian 18ct gold emerald & diamond ring Estimate: £500 – £700 Jewellery | 25th January 2024 Viewing times (ID required): London
  • Tuesday 16th January 12:00-19:00
  • Wednesday 17th January 10:00-16:00
Birmingham
  • Tuesday 23rd January 10:00-16:00
  • Wednesday 24th January 10:00-16:00
  • Thursday 25th January 8:30-10:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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The Royal Corps of Signals, a vital component of the British Army, has a rich history that spans over a century. Established in 1920, this corps has played a crucial role in maintaining communication on the battlefield. They handle all the ways soldiers talk to each other, whether it’s through radios, computers, or other high-tech equipment. Their responsibility is to make sure that everyone in the army can communicate effectively and securely, whether they’re on the battlefield or in a command centre. In this blog, we explore the history of this important institution and its symbolism. The History of the Royal Corps of Signals The history of the Royal Signals Corps dates back to the late 19th century when the use of telegraphy became increasingly crucial for military communication. In 1884, the Telegraph Battalion Royal Engineers was established, marking the initial steps towards a specialised signalling unit. As technology advanced, so did these units. This ultimately led to the formation of the Royal Corps of Signals in 1920. During World War II, the Corps played an undeniably crucial role in enabling communication between troops. They were instrumental in maintaining secure and efficient lines of communication. This significantly contributed to the success of Britain’s military operations. The Corps continued to adapt to changing technologies in the post-war era, incorporating innovations like radio and later, digital communication systems. Over the years, the Royal Signals Corps has been involved in numerous conflicts and peacekeeping missions worldwide. They have played key roles in operations in places like Korea, the Falkland Islands, Iraq, Afghanistan, and more. The Corps has continually embraced emerging technologies. Today, the Royal Signals Corps remains an integral part of the British Army, ensuring the effective communication of information in the modern era. Royal Corps of Signals Symbolism The cap badge of the corps clearly reflects their aims and duties. We see Mercury – the Roman messenger god, atop a globe. He is flagged by the corps’ motto: the Latin phrase ‘certa cito’ which translates to Swift and Sure. Interestingly, members of the corps refer to this image of Mercury as Jimmy. It’s unclear where this odd nickname originated from. One theory suggests it is derived from the name of the Italian sculptor, Giambologna, who originally carved the statue of Mercury that the badge borrows. This theory is not particularly popular, however. A more commonly accepted story is that it is named after a member of the Royal Signals; Jimmy Emblen, who represented the Royal Corps of Signals as a boxer as was the British Army Champion in 1924. Garrard Jewellers Our upcoming Jewellery auction will include a pair of earrings styled after the Royal Corps of Signals badge. These 9ct gold earrings are by the internationally renowned jeweller: Garrard. Garrard is sometimes said to be the oldest jewellery house in the world and holds a prestigious position as the former Crown Jeweller of the United Kingdom. The brand has a long-standing association with the British royal family and has crafted numerous pieces of regalia and ceremonial jewellery, including the Crown Jewels and Princess Diana’s engagement ring. The company was established by George Wicks in 1735 and became a prominent jeweller in London. Over almost 300 years, Garrard has continuously created exquisite and distinctive pieces, showcasing a commitment to craftsmanship and attention to detail. The brand’s reputation for quality and elegance has made it a favourite among those seeking one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces. Earlier in 2023, we sold a very special piece by Garrard, a stick-pin that was once gifted by George V. Royal Corps of Signals Jewellery at Auction Lot 2 9ct gold ‘Royal Signals Badge’ earrings, by Garrard Price Realised: £221.00 This lot, although particularly lovely as it is by Garrard, is not the first time we’ve had jewellery bearing the Royal Corps of Signals badge through our doors. In previous auctions, we’ve seen several similar lots, as shown below. What sets this upcoming lot apart from others – aside from its prestigious maker, is that it is a pair of earrings. Typically, when we see the Royal Corps of Signals in jewellery they are normally represented on brooches to be attached to lapels or hats. The fact that lot 2 is a pair of earrings, combined with the name Garrard, makes them especially appealing and unique. Lot 53 Enamel Royal Corps of Signals bar brooch Price Realised: £143.00 Lot 626 A regimental Royal Corps of Signals enamel bar brooch Price Realised: £33.80 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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