Category Archives: Watches

In this blog, we will discuss a brief history of the Patek Philippe Calatrava watch and its contribution to the world of horology.  History of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Patek Philippe trademarked the name Calatrava in the late 1800s. The origin of the name goes back to the 12th Century when it was used as a symbol of Calatrava knights in Spain and Portugal. In 1932, brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern invested in Patek Philippe after the company struggled through the Great Depression. The Stern company was previously a dial supplier to Patek Philippe and other Swiss manufacturers. The firm immediately started to benefit from their technical experience and business know-how.   Reference 96 The first Calatrava model produced was a reference 96. Inspired by the simple lines of the Bauhaus movement this model became an instant success. With a slimline round case, minimalist dial designs and exquisite finishing, the reference 96 was produced from 1932 to the 1960s. The name Calatrava wasn’t used for these watches until the late 1960s but retrospectively the collectors refer to simple Patek Philippe’s dress watch as Calatrava.   The first watches produced would house a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement but soon after that, it realised that reliability was an issue so Patek began the development of their own in-house movement, the calibre 120. This calibre was specifically designed for reference 96 and remained in production until the mid-1960s. Many different dial variants were produced, mostly simple versions with a subsidiary dial at six o’clock, but some examples were made with centre seconds, notably the rarest versions are the military-styled sector dials and versions with a moon phase indicator. One of these versions with five different compilations recently achieved over $5m at auction.  Another rare model is a world-time version ‘Heure Universelle’ produced in 1937 which features 24 global time zones.   Later Models In 1938 the larger version of the Calatrava was produced, reference 570. The case of this model measured nearly 36mm, followed by reference 565 which was the first water-resistant Calatrava with a screw-down case back. Then in 1949 reference 2457 was introduced with a vision to replace reference 96. However, reference 2457 only remained in production until 1958 therefore it outlasted its predecessor. Next in line was the reference 3960 in 1989 to commemorate Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary.   During the 1990s Patek Philippe brought us reference 5000 with the main change being the introduction of a subsidiary dial to the 4.30 position, a feature that remains in current models. The first 21st-century model was the reference 5117 and it features a screw-down crown and crown guards, giving it a slightly more utilitarian and sportier look. Currently, there are several versions on offer featuring six complications.  In conclusion, there must be a reason why Calatrava has been in production for 92 years. With so many slight variations coming from this one model, it is by far the company’s most prolific. It is no surprise that this design remains largely unchanged today. In my opinion, it is the world’s best dress watch and I believe it will remain in production for many more years to come.  Patek Philippe Calatrava at Auction Lot 103 Patek Philippe – a Calatrava watch, 33mm. Estimate: £7,000 – £9,000 Lot 106 Patek Philippe – a Calatrava watch, 34mm. Estimate: £14,000 – £20,000 Watches | Thursday 4th April 2024 Viewing times (ID required): London Tuesday 26th March 12:00-19:00 Birmingham Wednesday 3rd April 10:00-16:00 Thursday 4th April 8:30-09:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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The Heuer Autavia, reference 1163, was introduced in 1970. Some brands have brought out models that become an entity unto themselves. For example, ‘Daytona’, ‘Submariner’ or ‘Datejust’ make you think of Rolex. When you think of Heuer, your mind automatically steers towards three models, Monaco, Carrera and most importantly the Autavia. Built 13.5mm thick and 42.5mm wide it is a hefty old thing. The face is pronounced with its black dial, silvered subsidiary chronograph dials, punchy red seconds hand and hour marker highlights. It is then finished off with a date aperture at six. If you’re lucky enough to have an unrestored example you will also see the luminous paint fade. The crown is unusually positioned on the left side of the case. If you view it closely you will notice the flat ‘V’ in the word Autavia. A noticeable detail that has helped the Autavia become a collectors’ favourite. Büren 11 Movement What separates this watch from others is the movement – a calibre Büren 11 with its marvellous hidden micro-rotor. Not many of us will get the chance to see it, but sometimes the things left to the imagination are what draw us toward something. Even from the movement exterior, it appears to be a superbly complicated and well-crafted instrument.   To elaborate on the movement, the Büren calibre 11 movement was first introduced at the end of 1965. It was brought about by Dubois-Dépraz who began to branch the movement out to Jack Heuer, the grandson of the company’s founder, and then onto Willy Breitling, the second instalment of the Breitling watchmaking family tree. Jack Heuer was the last member of the Heuer family to manage the manufacturing of the brand, and also the most well-known member of the family. The man behind some of the most famous driving watches – the Carrera and Monaco to name a few (other models that also used the Büren 11 movement!). History of the Heuer Autavia The first Autavia was brought about in 1962. It took its name from the cockpit instrument used in 1933, used in both aviation and automobile dashboards. The name ‘Autavia’ serves as a reminder of its origin, a collaboration of “automotive” and “aviation”. In regards to automobile-Heuer relations, one relationship that has stood for quite some time is the Ferrari-Heuer partnership. You can see an example of the Autavia reference 2446 worn by Christian Bale in the fairly recent film “Ferrari vs. Ford”. The excitement surrounding the Autavia model has always been synonymous with Formula One, especially during the 1960s and 1970s. The high quality of the vintage Autavias means they can still be enjoyed in the present just as it was over 50 years ago. Whatever success Ferrari have had in their races it must be partially credited to the accuracy of the Heuer instruments used. Heuer Autavia at Auction Lot 49 Heuer – an Autavia chronograph watch, 42mm. Estimate: £2,500 – £3,000 Watches | Thursday 4th April 2024 Viewing times (ID required): London Tuesday 26th March 12:00-19:00 Birmingham Wednesday 3rd April 10:00-16:00 Thursday 4th April 8:30-09:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Kain Holroyd | Head of Watches
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Cartier first began producing watches in the early 20th century, beginning with the Santos. They quickly progressed into being one of the most creative watchmakers in the world. Join us as we appreciate some highlights from Cartier’s impressive back catalogue of watches. Cartier built their name on quality and luxury. Every aspect of owning an item by Cartier is designed to be as opulent as possible. This focus on excellence quickly translated itself into their approach to watchmaking. Louis Cartier and Edmund Jaeger reached an agreement in 1907 for Jaeger to create movements exclusively for Cartier. In hiring one of the most famous names in watchmaking, Louis Cartier ensured his watches were of the highest calibre (excuse the pun). This relationship spawned the European Watch and Clock company which was founded in the 1920’s. Cartier used movements from other companies during this period. EWC items were considered the more premium items and could fetch a higher price. We often see intervention and modification, so finding one in its original condition is exciting. Cartier Tank One of the most iconic watches ever made, the Tank, was introduced in 1919. Inspired by the new developments of the Great War. The design was influenced by the presence of Art Deco and has remained one of the most recognisable watch styles. Suitable for both men and women, it has been worn by the likes of Muhammad Ali and Princess Diana. There’s a reason why some form of Tank has been in Cartier’s lineup continuously from its introduction. It is a simple, classy watch that appeals to almost everyone. The Tank’s popularity allowed Cartier to profit significantly from the Must De Cartier line increasing the accessibility to Tanks. The Must de Cartier Tank’s popularity continues to grow, and we have seen even greater interest in the watch recently. Cartier Baignoire There has been, of late, a growing interest in the lesser-known models of Cartier’s history. Perhaps the most prominent example of this is the Baignoire. Introduced in 1912, the Baignoire for the longest time didn’t even have a name. It was not until the 50s that the Baignoire name was formally born. The official story is that Louis Cartier took the shape of a regular, circular, watch and simply stretched it out. This watch became foundational in Cartier’s creation of other watches, namely the Baignoire Allongée, the Maxi Oval and the Crash. The Baignoire, though, seems to have avoided acclaim until recently. Despite being an undeniably beautiful design, it appears to have not gained much significance until recent developments. In 2023 Cartier re-released the model in their Watches and Wonder showcase. Cartier’s designers re-invigorated this model by putting it on a bangle. This was then seen on the wrists of some of the most famous people in the world. The Baignoire acts as something of a rejection of the mantra that ‘bigger means better’. This has had a pervasive influence over watch designs of late. The Baignoire is unabashedly small, simple, and elegant. It is a simultaneously eye-catching and understated watch and is something different to other popular Cartier watches. Cartier Crash I must make a slight detour for perhaps one of my favourite watches of all time, the Cartier Crash. The design is, supposedly, based on a Baignoire Allongée that had been involved in a car crash. Recent evidence suggests that it came from an adaptation of the Oval watch that Cartier London had been producing. The result was a Dali-esque surrealist masterpiece that has, in recent years particularly, gained very considerable interest and desirability. Cartier has produced the Crash in limited numbers due to the trickiness of its design. The limited supply of Crashes has seen the prices achieved for the pieces steadily climb. They have become one of the ultimate prizes for collectors of vintage Cartier. Famous proponents such as Tyler, the Creator, is extremely public in their affection for the design. Cartier Ceinture Another relatively underappreciated watch in Cartier’s lineup is the Ceinture. With an octagonal ridged case, you could be mistaken for thinking it is something of a lovechild between the Tank and the Santos Dumont. Originally introduced in 1927 and then later re-issued in 1973, interest in the watch appears to have been modest. Perhaps the most intriguing part of the watch is the cover over the crown. Dubbed ‘remontoir imperdable’ or ‘captive winding’ by Cartier, this feature survives to this day in the form of the Balon Bleu. Doing away with the famous cabochon sapphire in the crown, the majority of these pieces appear to feature octagonal crowns instead. The Ceinture is a sleek and classy watch. Cartier has reintroduced other underappreciated models, which continue to be left in the wilderness to this day. The name is the French word for belt, Cartier decided the watch reminded them of a belt buckle. On this occasion, Cartier’s interest in metaphorical naming appears to somewhat undersell the watch. Rather than being a simple utilitarian belt, the Ceinture is a sleek and classy dress watch. It can easily compete with any number of other Cartier creations in this realm. The Ceinture is a strikingly distinctive watch and provides the opportunity to own an unusual piece. Why Choose a Cartier Watch? Cartier is not just about aesthetics, there is functionality behind most of the designs they produce. Take the original Santos, for example. Designed with aviation in mind, the Santos provides legibility and ease of use, whilst still maintaining an aesthetically minded approach. Even Cartier’s more obscure designs appear to maintain this link between design and usability. The Basculante was introduced in the early 1930s as a contemporary rival of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso. It is perhaps the most obvious example of this. Both the Basculante and the Reverso were designed to protect the glass of the watch by flipping. The Basculante adds a third function, it allows it to be used as a travelling desk clock. Cartier has this uncanny ability to do something simultaneously quite abstract and interesting while maintaining a degree of elegance. With a strong watchmaking pedigree, Cartier has produced a back catalogue of brilliant designs and fascinating concepts. Cartier is a luxury, and owning a Cartier has become a symbol of elegance. They are special watches, and they are some of the most highly finished watches available. Vintage Cartiers are growing in appreciation amongst the wider public. As this develops, I hope that Cartier will continue to harness this fascination by reintroducing some of their more obscure pieces. Cartier Watches & Watch Accessories at Auction Lot 10 Cartier – a wrist watch, 25x25mm. Price Realised: £1,495.00 Lot 6 Cartier – a Must de Cartier Vermeil watch, 25mm. Price Realised: £325.00 Lot 7 Cartier – a Must de Cartier Tank watch, 20x27mm. Price Realised: £689.00 Lot 706 Cartier – a pair of boutique displays. Price Realised: £1,196.00 Watches & Watch Accessories | Thursday 14th March 2024 Viewing times (ID required): Birmingham Tuesday 12th March 10:00-16:00 Wednesday 13th March 10:00-16:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Nathan Boot | MA (Hons)
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Breitling has been known to make timepieces for aviation and sports ever since the late 19th century, when Léon Breitling began to gain recognition for his reliable movements that were manufactured to have a power reserve of eight days.During a long recession in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, watchmaking was a way of life. Breitling envisioned the fact that the future would advance. One way in which he could help it do so was to innovate better timekeeping.From a workshop in a bustling square to a factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand became recognisable internationally by the turn of the century for its chronographs’ accuracy of two-fifths of a second and early pocket watch tachymeters under the renewed official company name: L. Breitling, Montbrilliant Watch Manufactory.In 1914, Gaston Breitling succeeded his father and the focus shifted to wrist watches; creating one of the first wrist-worn chronographs a year later. This was created with a single-pusher which could be used to start, stop and reset the second hand to zero. This broadened the interest in Breitling’s innovations to athletes, physicians and the advancing aviation industry. Development of Breitling By the 1930’s Breitling had over thirty-five watch models. Not all of their examples had the snailed tachymeter dials and chronograph functions though. They also featured elegant, simple and classic designs.During the same period, Breitling also pursued their innovations in aviation time-keeping, creating the Huit Aviation Department. Cockpit clocks were crafted to comply with airline requirements of light weight, accuracy and readability.They supplied vast amounts of cockpit instruments to the RAF and became an official supplier. During the Second World War, even through a rocky relationship, continued to supply the RAF in mountain meadows during covert meetings.It becomes apparent that without the Breitling family, chronographs as we know them wouldn’t exist. Willy Breitling had the idea to introduce a secondary pusher at the fourth-hour marker. This allowed the user to reset the stopwatch function. This was then mirrored by many other brands. It is still one of the most recognisable and attainable complications a watch enthusiast can have. Contemporary Breitling Designs As we graduate from the 1940s through the mid-century, more recognisable models like the Premier – a model that combined elegance and practicality – and the Chronomat were introduced. Below are a couple of examples of early designs which showcase how much, yet how little has changed since. Whilst the styles can vary through the years, Breitling watches still have fundamental characteristics that stickWith their SuperOcean examples, they factored in even more durability to withstand the depths, later examples like the 2005 reference ensured the readability of the dial with clean, simple dials with bright luminous markers. One last celebrated model, which to me is the epitome of “Breitling” design: The Navitimer.This watch is more instrument than a watch in its nature, allowing Pilots to calculate speed, distance, rate of ascent/descent and conversion of miles to kilometres or even nautical miles. It is one of the few designs to incorporate a slide-rule bezel which allows the user to make such calculations.To the average collector or consumer, the design can appear almost intimidating and overwhelmingly complicated – because it is! It was made for a niche market and yet it became a sensation with the average collector too.Breitling as a brand has adapted itself to the contemporary market whilst keeping true to its practical values. There is a certain ‘solid’ feel to each model and the durability of timepieces has a huge role to play in the watch market in general, never mind for instrumental pieces used by specialists in security, aviation and sea-faring industries.One thing remained at the forefront of all Breitling watches reliability. You could always depend on your Breitling watch to be readable, precise and to function for a long duration of time whether on land, air or sea. Breitling Watches at Auction Lot 14 Breitling – a limited edition Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42 watch, 42mm. Price Realised: £28,600.00 Lot 16 Breitling – a Navitimer chronograph watch, 41mm. Price Realised: £3,965.00 Lot 9 Breitling – Navitimer chronograph watch, 38mm. Price Realised: £1,560.00 Lot 8 Breitling – a Chronomat Evolution chronograph watch, 43mm. Price Realised: £2,665.00 Lot 12 Breitling – an Avenger chronograph watch, 45mm. Price Realised: £1,950.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Kain Holroyd | Head of Watches
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Breguet Company History Abraham-Louis Breguet was born in Neuchatel France in 1747, as a teenager he moved to Versailles and Paris to do his apprenticeship. His first workshop opened in Ile de la Cite in Paris. Influenced by master watchmakers in Versailles he is soon introduced to French royalty including King Louis XVI. The King was keenly interested in his work and was soon impressed with Breguet’s inventions and technological ability. The King himself later commissioned ‘Perpetuelle’ the world’s first self-winding watch. During the French Revolution Breguet was exiled to England because of his Royal connections. During his exile, he also produced watches for British royalty such as King George III. He returned to Paris in 1795, and in 1807 his son Antoine-Louis Breguet joined the company and the company became Breguet et Fils (Breguet & Sons). The company remained in family hands until the English clockmaker Edward Brown took over the running of the factory, later followed by his sons until the 1970s. During the quartz crises ownership of the company changed several times and in 1990 the company became a part of the Swatch group. The list of Breguet’s most important inventions:
  • Overcoil hairspring
  • Gong spring (first-minute repeater)
  • Self-winding movements (Perpetuelle)
  • ‘Breguet’ hands
  • first shock protection system (Pare-chute)
  • Tourbillion
  • First wristwatch (1810)
After Breguet’s death, his son and the company continued with technological advancements in the horological industry. Important Breguet Timepieces Watch number 160 ‘Marie Antoinette’ or ‘Poem in Clockwork’: Probably the most famous creation by Breguet. Commissioned by a secret admirer of the French Queen. The watch took forty years to complete. The work stopped during Breguet’s exile (1789-1795) and wasn’t completed till the 1820s, so Marie Antoinette or Abraham-Louis Breguet did not live to see the watch completed. It was eventually completed by his son Antoine. Interestingly the watch was stolen from the L.A. Mayer Institute for Islamic Art in 1983 and wasn’t recovered till 2007 by which point the company produced a replica (this ‘only’ took four years to produce). The original watch was cased in gold and composed of 823 components. Some of the components included: Celestial time Perpetual Calendar Minute repeater Thermometer Automatic winding The Independent seconds hand and several more The cost of producing such a complicated watch was astronomically high, apparently in the region of 30000 francs. This timepiece was extraordinary then and still is today 200 years later. Saying Breguet was ahead of his time is an understatement. In my opinion, it is the most important watch in the history of watchmaking. Several other high-end complicated watches were later produced by the company (a few sold in auctions between 2000 and 2020 for several million pounds each), but none of them are as important or technologically advanced as ‘Marie Antoinette’. When the original was returned it was valued for insurance purposes at $30 million. Breguet Watches at Auction Lot 1 Breguet – a Classique watch, 34mm. Price Realised: £5,330.00 Lot 2 Breguet – a Classique watch, 31mm. Estimate: £3,500 – £4,500 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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The Rolex ‘Double Red’ Rolex is a name that has become synonymous with ‘tool’ watches, watches that were designed to carry out a task. Their iconic models include the Submariner, the GMT and the Explorer. One of these tool watches that is not so well known, but highly sought after amongst collectors is the Sea-Dweller. This was launched back in 1967 (reference 1665), the Rolex ‘Double Red’ and is still a model name used today. It was an evolution of Rolex’s famed dive watch, the Submariner. The Submariner at that time had a depth rating of 200m/660ft, however, the Sea-Dweller was aimed at those who went deeper and had a depth rating of 610m/2000ft! Differences Between the Sea-Dweller and the Submariner There were a few differences that separated the Sea-Dweller from the Submariner. One of which was the addition of a helium escape valve on the side of the case. Saturation divers would often notice a strange phenomenon with their Submariners, the crystal would often pop out in the decompression chamber after a dive! Saturation diving requires helium in the breathing gas mix and after prolonged exposure, helium particles would form inside the watch’s case. These particles would escape from the weakest point, which was the plexiglass. Rolex solved this issue by patenting their helium escape valve (Swiss patent reference CH492246 if you’re interested!!) which let these helium particles escape via this mechanism. The Sea-Dweller also has a thicker domed crystal and a thicker case than the Submariner. Also, this 1665 reference is one of the few watches where Rolex engraved on the case back. Another difference between the Sea-Dweller and the Submariner was the red writing on the first-generation Sea-Dweller dial. The text ‘Sea-Dweller’ and ‘Submariner 2000’ is in red giving the dial a lovely pop of colour and has been given the nickname ‘Double Red’ amongst Rolex collectors. These early Sea-Dwellers are hugely sought after amongst Rolex collectors and rarely come to market as they didn’t sell in huge numbers and those that were sold were often used in saturation diving which further diminished their numbers. The ‘Double Red’ Sea-Dweller was in fact production for 10 years between 1967 to 1977 before being replaced by the ‘Great White’ which was technically very simpler but did away with that lovely red text. Rolex ‘Double Red’ Sea-Dweller at Auction The Watch auction on Thursday 8th February features a Rolex Sea-Dweller ‘Double Red’ reference 1665. This is a lovely example dating from 1973 and comes with box and service receipts from 1985 and 1998. It has an estimate of £18,000-22,000 and will undoubtedly attract a lot of interest. Lot 129 Rolex – a Sea Dweller ‘Double Red’ watch, 39mm. Price Realised: £21,450.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Steven Yambo | Watch Specialist
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Collecting watches has always been a popular hobby, but if you’re just starting the world of watches can seem big and overwhelming. For that reason, our watch team have selected watches from our upcoming auction that they think would be a good place to begin. When you’re just beginning, it’s important to make sure you take the time to research different options and learn about the unique features of each watch. You can read reviews and watch videos to get a sense of what you like and what fits within your budget. Here at Fellows, our watch team frequently makes videos and writes blogs so we highly recommend having a look through our website and social media as chances are, one of our specialists has already done a deep dive into a brand you’re curious about. It’s also important to look for reputable dealers and retailers to ensure that you’re getting an authentic watch at a fair price. You can also consider buying pre-owned watches from trusted sources if you want to save money. We pride ourselves on being a fantastic place to start if you are interested in pre-owned. Our team of watch specialists are on hand to make your experience as straightforward and stress-free as possible, and they meticulously check each watch for authenticity. Today, we’ve asked them: “If you were starting your watch collection from scratch – where would you begin?”. Our Team’s Top Picks Collecting Watches – Nathan’s Pick: The archetypal starter watch brand, any list lacking a TAG Heuer would not be complete. An iconic watch of the early 2000s, these pieces represent real value for money. Something that stands out about this watch is just how comfortable it is. In a time where watches keep growing bigger and thicker, this slightly more slim quartz example is a great value proposition. Lot 84 TAG Heuer- a 2000 Series bracelet watch, 40mm. Price Realised: £351.00 Collecting Watches – Kain’s Pick: If you’re looking for something with a retro digital aesthetic, a watch that offers nostalgia for a time that considered this to be what the future has in store for watch collectors. You may want to consider the Omega Constellation LCD to start your collection. The angular design and dual battery-powered movement create an instrumental yet visually pleasing tool watch, with a chronograph and alarm function. Lot 34 Omega – a Constellation LCD chronograph bracelet watch, 35mm. Price Realised: £533.00 Collecting Watches – Steven’s Pick: This is a great-looking chronograph from a prestigious watch brand. An ideal watch to start a collection as it is very wearable, suitable for any occasion and could prove to be a saving over buying one new. Lot 19 Longines – a Conquest chronograph bracelet watch, 41mm. Price Realised:  £468.00 Collecting Watches – Richard’s Pick: I think it is a fantastic quality automatic bracelet watch with a stylish and interesting burgundy dial and bezel. It is possible to get one of these at a fraction of the cost of a new example. For your money, you are getting the same quality as Rolex but with an entry-level price point. Ideal lady’s watch to start a watch collection. Also, comfortable to wear and let’s not forget it is a serious diving watch as well. Lot 99 Tudor – a Princess Oysterdate Chrono-Time bracelet watch, 26mm. Price Realised: £624.00 The Team’s Joint Pick: As a team, we have a deep affection for Oris in general. This piece represents a great value entry point into the world of luxury Swiss watches. Coming in at 42mm, this watch will not overpower a wrist, nor will it be too small. Its design draws from classic art-deco dress watches but maintains a modern look. Most importantly it features Oris’ most famous complication, the pointer date, which provides aesthetically pleasing utility. The Artelier displays Oris’ ability to produce high-quality watches at an affordable price point, featuring a guilloche dial with applied hour markers. This example, now discontinued, is available in our upcoming Watch & Watch Collectables auction with an estimate of £150-200. Lot 62 Oris – an Artelier Pointer Date wrist watch, 43mm. Price Realised: £858.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Nathan Boot BA (Hons), MA (Hons) | Junior Cataloguer Kain Holroyd | Head of Watches Steven Yambo | Watch Specialist Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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Everyone has differing tastes and opinions when it comes to watches. Working in the auction world you tend to see a variety come through the doors. We see all sorts of weird, wonderful, new, vintage, appealing and ugly. From the thousands of watches we have sorted through, I have compressed a short list of 6 brands which I think are either overrated or underrated watches in this wonderfully eclectic industry. Overrated Watches Gucci – I’m sure most people look at Gucci as a fashionable version of Marmite. You either love it or hate it. Whatever your perspective, I would not rely on Gucci inputting any desirable calibres into their movements. No matter how many interchangeable bezels come with the watch. This brand’s value, in my perspective, is based solely on its namesake and aesthetic. Which is fine if that is what you are looking for. TAG Heuer – Now I’m not saying that all TAG Heuer watches are overstated. However, when it comes to Formula 1’s… particularly Formula 1 models with references beginning with CAZ and WAZ. This is because they have proven to be massively popular with a slightly higher price tag than expected, with very common and inexpensive movements. When you buy an entry-level luxury watch you expect to open the movement to see great craftsmanship, not mass-produced, imported ETA movements with little to show for the price they demand. Cartiers – whilst most Cartier watches have cemented themselves as the go-to luxury watch brand amongst Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Sohne and Audemars Piguet, models such as Santos’ and Tanks’ are significantly more popular than others. Some of their vintage models including Must de Cartier examples, particularly ones with quartz movements do appear, at times, to have been simply ‘thrown together’. The details of the watch including the paintwork on the dial and etching onto the case backs can appear amateurish and not what you would expect from a brand that sells £5,000 – £10,000 models regularly. Whilst this is not the case for most of their watches, the few in which this is the case make it a note-worthy flaw in their manufacturing history. Underrated Watches Doxa – Doxa is a brand that many who are new to the world of watches have not heard about, they are known for making practical watches. Their slogan ‘Your call to adventure’ is befitting of the watches they create. On the flip side, they also have an array of lovely dress watches, usually dating back to the 1960s and 1970s and usually in 14ct gold. The unusually large cases add to their bold branding style but add a touch of elegance. Hamilton – Hamiltons are a great watch to consider whether it’s to start your collection or simply add to one. Their price points are always reasonable, the timekeeping of their watches is reliable and they have several models to suit any collector’s needs whether it’s a Ventura for the more outlandish or a Khaki for the more everyday watch lovers. Bulova – Bulova have always been a dark horse of the watch world, their Accutron model is likely their most recognisable however they have variations of dress and sports watches alike. Everyone is aware that the Omega Speedmaster ‘Moonwatch’ was worn by astronauts but not everyone is aware that all the instrument clocks on the spacecraft on the same mission were powered by Bulova movements. Lot 129 Doxa – a wrist watch, 38mm. Price Realised: £325.00 Lot 144 Hamilton – a wrist watch, 33mm. Price Realised: £195.00 Lot 121 Bulova – a Accutron wrist watch, 34mm. Price Realised: £351.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Kain Holroyd | Head of Watches
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Hamilton has had a long, rich history of producing both wrist and pocket watches. Established in America in 1892, they made their name producing pocket watches. In their early days, they produced pocket watches for the American railroad. They also supplied watches for the military during the Second World War. It’s estimated to have over a million watches to be sent overseas. Hamilton was also a company that was at the cutting edge of innovation. In 1957 they produced the world’s first electronic watch, the Hamilton Ventura. The Production of the Hamilton Ventura They hired a renowned industrial designer, Richard Arbib, to design this watch and asked him to design whatever he wanted!! He produced one of the most avant-grade designs in watch history that still turns heads today. The asymmetric design has become a design classic and an iconic watch in the history of Hamilton. The watch further stamped its iconic status by appearing on the wrist of Elvis Presley in the 1961 film ‘Blue Hawaii’. Despite being such an iconic watch it was only in production for 7 years before being discontinued, however, that was not the end of the Hamilton Ventura!!! In 1971 SSIH, the Omega & Tissot holding company bought the Hamilton brand. Production of Hamilton watches moved from America to Switzerland a few years earlier. SSIH later became The Swatch Group and knowing they had a hit on their hands looking at Hamilton’s back catalogue, they revived the Ventura. In 2015 they released a brand new collection of the Hamilton Ventura design, this time instead of the electronic movement, which didn’t last the test of time, they came with new Swiss quartz or automatic movements, however, that famed asymmetric case design was still the same. Hamilton Ventura at Auction In the Watches & Watch Collectable sale on 17th January we have one of these newer re-issued Hamilton Ventura watches. It features a stainless steel case, an eye-catching red second hand and the Swiss automatic movement is shown off by the skeleton dial and exhibition case back. With an estimate of £300-400, I’m sure it will be a popular lot and attract a lot of interest.  Lot 143 Hamilton – a Ventura wrist watch, 35x52mm Price Realised: £442.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Steven Yambo | Watch Specialist Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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Collectable Watch Memorabilia For watch enthusiasts, collecting watches is just the beginning. There’s a whole world of collectable watch memorabilia that can be discovered. From vintage watch adverts and posters to watchmaker’s tools and parts, there’s something for every collector. One of the most popular types of watch-related memorabilia is vintage watch adverts. In our previous Watches & Watch Accessories auction we had lot 681, a wonderful example of this, including adverts by Cartier. If that’s not for you, we have many other exciting items to discover. A favourite in our watch team is lot 694, a Patek Philippe Collection book. An especially interesting piece is lot 686 – a pair of binoculars by Rolex. These are extremely unique, we’ve never had something like this in our auctions before! If you missed this auction be sure to sign up to receive notifications about future auctions. Collecting watch-related memorabilia is a fascinating hobby that offers a unique window into the world of horology. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just at the beginning, there’s always something new and interesting to discover. Hopefully, you can find something special in our auctions! Collectable Watch Memorabilia at Auction Richard Griza, one of our watch-lovers, gives his insight into these exciting lots! Lot 681 A group of watch display items to include stands by Cartier. Approximately 25. Price Realised: £416.00 “Many watch collectors lust after adverts such as these. This collection really has something for everyone. Whether you’re going to mount them on your wall or keep them on your desk as objects d’art, these display items are really something special!” Lot 694 Patek Philippe – a Collection Book. Price Realised: £49.40 “I actually have one of these books myself! It is the perfect coffee table book and one of my favourite items in my personal collection of watch memorabilia.” Lot 686 Rolex – a pair of binoculars. Price Realised: £494.00 “I have never seen anything like this before! We’re actually lucky enough to have TWO pairs in our auction, meaning that two lucky bidders will be able to own such an interesting piece of watch memorabilia. If you want to level-up your bird watching: these are for you. Or – perfect for watching the horses at Ascot!” Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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For our last Watches & Watch Accessories auction, we thought we would try something a bit different. We asked a couple of members of our watch team here at Fellows to give us their top 5 watches. If you’re in the market for a watch and you’re not sure where to start, hopefully, these picks will inspire you! If you missed this auction, be sure to sign up to receive notifications about upcoming sales. Nathan’s Top 5 Watches: Nathan joined the watch team in April of this year having graduated with a master’s in Ancient History. A bit different from Horology! But he’s quickly learnt the ropes from our more seasoned watch specialists and is quickly finding his ‘style’ when it comes to watches. Lot 262 Seiko – a limited edition Prospex Samurai wrist watch, 43mm. Price Realised: £312.00 “I think this one is cool. It’s modern, futuristic, one of my favourite Seikos. It helps that it’s got a funky name as well: Samurai!” Lot 266 Seiko – a ‘Pogue’ chronograph bracelet watch, 41mm. Price Realised: £637.00 “The Seiko Pogue, who couldn’t love this watch? This model of Seiko is famous for being worn by the astronaut William Pogue! The yellow face also sets it apart, it makes it more interesting.” Lot 272 Tissot – a wrist watch, 22x35mm. Price Realised: £71.50 “I suppose this one is more classic than my other two picks so far. It’s sleek, it would look good on everyone. Luckily it’s also very budget-friendly.” Lot 106 Omega – a Geneve wrist watch, 38x38mm. Price Realised: £260.00 “A square watch isn’t for everyone, but it is for me. This Omega is different to the ones we most commonly see here at Fellows – and for this reason, it had to be in my top five watches. Very 70s.” Lot 235 Leonidas – a chronograph wrist watch, 34mm. Price Realised: £468.00 “I’ll keep this one brief: I simply think this watch is pretty!” Kain’s Top 5 Watches: Kain has been at Fellows since 2016, he’s moved through many departments, finally settling in the Watch team. He recently was promoted to Head of Watches! Well-versed in all things horology, Kain’s taste in watches is simply excellent. Lot 13 Cartier – a Santos Galbee bracelet watch, 28mm. Price Realised: £1,196.00 “Cartier Santos, my reasons for picking this watch are that it has that classic Santos appearance but with a few variations to the usual screw motif bracelet and Roman numeral dial. Could be your everyday go-to or a special occasion watch.” Lot 75 Omega – a Constellation bracelet watch, 32mm. Price Realised: £416.00 “Omega Constellation, sleek design with unusual blue chapter ring bezel. Reliable time keeping and not a watch you have to remember to wind up every day due to the battery-powered quartz movement.” Lot 159 TAG Heuer – a Formula 1 chronograph bracelet watch, 38mm. Price Realised: £286.00 “TAG Heuer Formula 1, fun sporty watch with a durable plastic bezel. Blue and steel always go well together as a colourway and are very affordable.” Lot 195 Baume & Mercier – a Montro wrist watch, 25mm. Price Realised: £390.00 “Baume & Mercier, whilst not a watch I would wear I can appreciate how unique the case is and it shouts ‘luxury’ with an 18ct yellow gold case and Tiger Eye dial.” Lot 209 Cuervo Y Sobrinos – a Tradicion wrist watch, 39.5mm. Price Realised: £910.00 “Cuervo Y Sobrinos, with large angular lugs like that it would be hard to not give it a mention, almost looks like an insect on your wrist.” Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Nathan Boot BA (Hons), MA (Hons) | Junior Cataloguer Kain Holroyd | Head of Watches
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George Etherington was a clockmaker and watchmaker during the late 17th and early 18th century. He was admitted to the Clockmakers Company in 1684 on the 1st of December. Sixteen years later, on July 23rd 1701, Etherington began as Assistant to the Court of Clockmakers Company. The Clockmakers Company, officially recognised in 1631 as The Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, was created to recognise and protect horologists’ trade within the City of London and gave it a regulatory authority to control it within a ten-mile radius. It has a body in the style of The Master, Wardens and Fellowship of the Art and Mystery of Clockmaking. The Company still exists and accepts members today. It works with many watchmakers and horologists as well as offering education to those wishing to become one. George Etherington George Etherington became the Youngest Warden in 1706. During this time other great names were members including Thomas Tompion and Joseph Windmills who also served as youngest warden in 1702. In 1709 Etherington was chosen as Master of the Clockmakers Company for one year. This was considered the highlight of his career and succeeded by Thomas Haydon. During his time at The Company, his work consisted largely of long clocks, commonly known as grandfather clocks, table clocks and pocket watches. His pocket watches were crafted with chain and fusee movements. They were crafted with beautiful tulip pillars which were popular during the beginning of the 18th Century. His pocket watches also featured champleve dials and intricately engraved movements. There is an example of his work in the British Museum. This example is similar to the work included in the Luxury Watch Sale which took place on 23rd November 2023. The Changing Style of Pocket Watches Pocket watches were developed in the 16th century. Initially, they were worn around the neck due to their large clock-watch hybrid appearance, which had brass cylindrical designs and was much larger than their later designs and at first only featured an hour hand. Styles began to change as the trade became more widely known. In the 17th century, they were more commonly worn by men in pockets rather than as a pendant. It was common for women to wear watches as a pendant through to the late 19th century. Portable watches whether they were pocket or pendant watches were considered luxury items and up until the 1720s almost all pocket watches included a verge escapement. Different Types of Pocket Watches Pocket watches were made in various ways, there are pair cases, open-face, full hunter or half-hunter cases. Pair cases simply have a second case surrounding the inner case as a means to offer further protection to the movement and dial. Hunter pocket watches have a hinged plate or lid covering the front and back of the watch to protect from dust and dirt, half hunter pocket watches have a small opening to the case front making the dial semi-visible. Open-face pocket watches have no protection to the front of the case but are fully visible. The name ‘Hunter pocket watch’ originated in England where fox hunters would be able to open the case with one hand while holding the reins of their ‘hunter’ or horse in the other hand. Pocket watches were predominantly used by men into the 20th century and were previously considered feminine, however began to get phased out during the time of the First World War as men realised they were much more accessible and easy to read and thus more practical for soldiers fighting the trenches. Early wristwatches looked pretty much like pocket watches worn on your wrist and are referred to as ‘trench watches’. Pocket watches were then mainly used on the railroads until their final demise around 1943, with only a slight revival as a fashionable piece when worn with a three-piece suit in the 1970s and 1980s. George Etherington Pocket Watches at Auction Lot 253 A pair case pocket watch by George Etherington, 53mm Price Realised: £3,770.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Kain Holroyd | Head of Watches
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Our November Luxury watch sale featured a number of military and service watches. Including, a particularly interesting Special Edition Breitling SuperOcean Heritage. This was a bespoke commission for members of the Metropolitan Police’s Specialist Firearms Command. The Trojans of London The Specialist Firearms Command (MO19) is a specialised unit within the Metropolitan Police Service in London. The unit is dedicated to dealing with armed incidents and providing armed support to other police units. This elite unit is trained to handle a wide range of situations that involve firearms. From armed robberies to hostage takings and terrorist situations. Officers undergo rigorous training in marksmanship, tactical operations, and negotiation skills. They are equipped to handle high-risk situations. Particularly, where the use of firearms may be necessary to protect public safety or respond to serious threats. The unit plays a crucial role in countering terrorism and organized crime. They often work in collaboration with other law enforcement agencies. Members of the Specialist Firearms Command are highly trained professionals who must maintain a high level of fitness, mental acuity, and discipline. They operate with specialised firearms and equipment to ensure they can effectively respond to various scenarios while minimizing risks to themselves and others. This branch of London’s Metropolitan Police is known as ‘the Trojans of London’. It has been said that this name came from the fact that their Armed Response Vehicles look much like any other police car, yet inside are these elite officers. Others posit that it is related to the helmets that make up their uniform. Photos included with permission of the original owner. Photos included with permission of the original owner. Breitling and The Trojans Through Andrew Michael’s Jewellers in Hatton Garden, a serving member of the Specialist Firearms Command commissioned a limited run of bespoke Breitling SuperOcean Heritage watches. We are privileged to offer for sale one of these watches. Breitling only produced 40 of these pieces with the edition number inscribed on the case of the watch, as well as the coat of arms of the unit, and the text ‘Specialist Firearms Command’. Other tailored features of this watch include the iconic Firearms Command insignia, a Trojan Helmet on the dial, and the Roman numerals XIX, referring to the Unit’s designation of MO19. There is also a yellow 19 on the chapter ring. This appears to be a reference to the circular yellow stickers placed in the window of all Armed Response Vehicles. Additionally, the reverse of the watch shows the shoulder number and name of the officer who purchased the piece. The original owner was one of the first responders at the 2017 Westminster Terrorist Attack at The Houses of Parliament and is still a serving officer in this unit. Due to their service, we are not able to publicly display their name or number on our auction listing or this blog. As one would expect with Breitling, it is a superb timepiece on its own, with high-quality construction and using Breitling’s dependable B20 calibre. Fitted to a signed rubber strap, it makes a sporty addition to any collection. It comes with a box, papers dated to the first quarter of 2022, and a signed letter of provenance from the original owner. Ultimately, the interest in this watch is not in its timekeeping abilities. Its provenance and association with some of the most important members of the Metropolitan Police is what made it a fascinating proposition in our Luxury Watch sale. Trojans of London Watch at Auction Lot 265 Breitling – a Specialist Firearms Command SuperOcean Heritage wrist watch, 42mm Estimate: £4,500 – £6,500 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Nathan Boot BA (Hons), MA (Hons) | Junior Cataloguer
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Movado Watch Company History We can trace the early history of the Movado Watch Company to 1881 and the famous Swiss watch-making town of La Chaux-de-Fonds. When it was first founded by Achille Dittesheim it was just a small workshop. Together with his brothers Leopold and Isidore they expanded and moved into a modern 20th century factory. By 1905 the company was employing 150 workers and was producing high-quality pocket watches, at that point the company was just called Movado (from the Esperanto word ‘always in motion’). In the modern era, the company is probably most famous for the Bauhaus-inspired Museum Watch designed by American designer Nathan George Horwitt in 1947. Movado only produced two types of wristwatches for the military during WWII: the ‘Weems’ pilots watch and the 6B159 pilots and navigators standard issue wristwatch. 6B159 ‘Family’ When collectors talk about RAF-issued 6B159 watches we normally think of Omega and Longines versions and perhaps their ‘Weems’ versions that need no introduction. Many of these aviator watches were worn during The Battle of Britain. All manufacturers produced to the same RAF specification with white non-luminous dials, black Arabic numerals, centre seconds and blued steel non-luminous hands. These watches are collector’s pieces for sure but in our industry, you do see a fair few. However, we seldom see the Movado version. In my 15 years of researching and collecting watches I have seen many Omega and Longines examples, but when this Movado turned up at our office I got quite excited. The truth is I have never seen one before. Movado Watches at Auction In our November Luxury Watch Sale, one such watch was featured. In my opinion, this is a good, honest example of a rare watch. Interestingly the RAF ‘downgraded’ Movado from 6B159 (Pilots and navigators type) to 234 (standard issue ground and airborn crew wristwatch). Reasons for the downgrade are not known but perhaps some examples did not perform as they should during operations. The downgrading meant case backs of these watches were re-engraved and the watches were re-issued. Our research suggests the majority of the already very limited production was reissued. The few examples known to the market all have 6B159 crossed off and 234 added. The fact that this watch has not been re-engraved makes it even rarer. The Watch has the original unrestored dial, original blued steel hands and of course the original case (don’t forget many 6B159s we re-cased post-war). The watch features a 15 jewel movement, calibre 75, signed Movado Swiss Made and a stainless steel case back. The case back is stamped 6B159 9215/42 (Made in 1942). In conclusion, colletors will always want original untouched examples of rare military watches and this one certainly does it for me. Lot 269 Movado – a military issue wrist watch, 33mm. Price Realised: £1,170.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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Every month we are asked by our marketing team to come up with a few watches to include in publicity materials for upcoming auctions. When thinking about what to suggest, it struck me that, despite undoubtedly being immensely popular watches, we have never written about the Chanel J12. Please, hold back the collective groans – the J12 is not just another ‘Designer watch’. Of course, there will always be a degree of snobbery towards a watch like this. Chanel is not your typical watchmaker with 200 years of history, founded by a refined Swiss gentleman who could view the Alps from their workshop window. Instead, Chanel is a modern brand in the world of watches, producing modern pieces for a modern audience. The History of Chanel J12 Beginning in the fashion world in the early 20th century, Chanel started producing watches in 1987, debuting with the Première. At the turn of the millennium, Chanel launched the J12. The J12 embraced the heritage and design cues of leading diver’s watches but challenged and developed upon them in its own unique way. Embracing a sleek, futuristic appearance, the J12 was composed of black ceramic. This material is not only hard-wearing but provides the watch with a certain elegance and stylishness. Ceramic can, sometimes, feel somewhat lightweight or plasticky on the wrist, almost as if you are wearing a toy watch – the J12 has no such issue. The ceramic used in the J12s, produced in-house, has a quality and substantial feeling to it that others can lack. Chanel shortly followed this release with a white version, too. Both versions of this watch continue to be eminently popular, and I can guarantee that in every sale that features a J12, there will be great interest in the watch. In particular, we will often do multiple one-to-one virtual viewings with bidders specifically interested in the J12. Ultimately, the fanaticism for the watch is there on auction day, too. It is easy to see why; there is an effortless class to the J12. The watch fits with the ‘Quiet Luxury’ that appealed to so many in recent years. It is recognisably a luxury watch, but not too showy in its appearance. J12 at Auction What specifically drew me to writing about the J12, is one particular example we had in our Luxury Watch Sale which took place on the 23rd of November. A part of Chanel’s limited edition Joaillerie line, this example manages to fit in with the fine jewellery aesthetic of the range, whilst still being wearable and not too flashy. This J12 has luxury built into every facet – an 18-carat white-gold bezel set with thirty-six rubies, twelve baguette cut diamonds, a ruby in the crown, diamond-dot hour markers, an 18-carat white-gold case back – even the clasp is gold! If this watch were made of another material, it could potentially be too much. The black ceramic of the case and bracelet contrasts the eye-catching stones and provides the watch with an aesthetic balance and nuance that serves it well. The luxury extends to the watch’s internals, with a highly finished movement powering the watch. This example is one of only twelve made, and, coincidentally, is number five. The limited nature of this watch, as well as its eye-catching appearance, definitely made it a popular piece on auction day. Lot 61 Chanel – a limited edition J12 Joaillerie bracelet watch, 33mm. Estimate: £6,500 – £8,500 Lot 59 Chanel – a J12 Chromatic bracelet watch, 40mm. Price Realised: £2,210.00 Lot 58 Chanel – a J12 bracelet watch, 34mm. Price Realised: £1,196.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Nathan Boot BA (Hons), MA (Hons) | Junior Cataloguer
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