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Signed 'C & AG'

The decades between 1860 and 1880 saw the peak of eccentricity in fashion. The jewellery trade flourished and jewellers revived the interest of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance in their work. Renaissance and gothic styles had inspired famous jewellers such as Frédéric Philippi and Froment-Meurice, but only with Carlo Giuliano, in the early 1860s, did the style reach its zenith.

It seems probable that the Neapolitan Carlo Giuliano (1831 – 1895) was trained in Rome, possibly in the Castellani workshop where he produced jewels in archaeological style. In about 1860 he came to London and opened up a workshop in Frith Street where he produced jewels for firms such as Hunt and Roskell, Robert Phillips and C.F. Hancock. His jewels proved to be a success, and in 1874 he was able to open his own shop at 115 Piccadilly. After his death, his two sons Carlo Joseph and Arthur continued to trade until 1912 when the shop moved to Knightsbridge, and closed at the outbreak of the First World War.

Carlo Giuliano excelled in the production of jewels designed in neo-Renaissance style. He soon became famous for his lozenge shaped pendants, pierced in foliate and scroll designs, delicately enamelled and set with pearls and gemstones. Carlo Joseph and Arthur Giuliano worked very much in the style of their father, possibly with a more delicate touch and with a new interest in pastel colours and naturalism.

The Giuliano's usually signed their pieces. The early pieces by Carlo Giuliano were often marked with a monogram C.G. After the death of their father, Carlo Joseph and Arthur entered a new mark consisting of the monogram C. & A.G in an oval. It is this mark that appears on the necklace we have here for auction on Thursday 14th October.


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lot 200