With a history dating back to the 1920s, the Chanel flap bag is iconic. Worn by princesses, actors, and women all over the world, the Chanel flap has never gone out of style. Its style is timeless, its silhouette is instantly recognisable, and its popularity is enduring.
Coco Chanel first conceived the idea of a handbag with an over-the-shoulder strap in the 1920s. The story goes that she became tired of holding her handbag in her hands and decided to design an alternative. Apparently inspired by soldiers' packs, she used a long strap to hold the bag over the wearer's shoulder. This was a game-changer for handbag design at the time as it allowed women to go "hands-free".
Despite creating this revolutionary design in the twenties, Chanel didn't debut her flap bag until February 1955. It is from this date that the first model for the Chanel double flap gets its name - the 2.55.
In 1982, Karl Lagerfeld joined Chanel as creative director and ushered in many changes to the Parisian fashion house. Notably, he spearheaded a redesign of the classic flap bag, creating the iconic interlocking CC twist lock. Since then, Chanel has continued to innovate new handbag designs, constantly keeping the wearer's needs in mind, whilst providing that signature Chanel flare in design.
Single
The Single Flap was the first model with standardised design and sizes. Similar to the Double Flap but lacks the inner flap found in the double flap version. This makes it lighter and easier to access, especially in larger sizes like the Jumbo or Maxi. While it was discontinued in 2014 in the main line, so it’s no longer in production for newer styles, vintage single flaps remain very popular for their practicality.
Double
Arguably the most iconic Chanel bag, the Classic Double Flap features two interior flaps, diamond quilting, a CC turn-lock (updating the Mademoiselle lock), and a leather-woven chain strap. Introduced by Karl Lagerfeld, it’s revered for its elegance, structure, and timeless appeal. The Double Flap is known to hold its structure more than the Jumbo Double Flap 2012.
Square Flap
The Square Flap is a vintage variation of the Classic Flap, but with a more geometric, symmetrical shape. It’s typically petite and structured, often favoured as a mini or small crossbody.
Mini Flap
The Mini Flap is a scaled-down version of the Classic Flap, some see it as a different bag, others see it as the size before “small”. It retains all the Classic Flap iconic details in a petite size. Available in square or rectangular shapes, it's perfect for essentials-only outings. Often found on the secondary market in limited editions or seasonal colours, it’s one of Chanel’s most in-demand mini bags.
Mini Square Flap:
Reissue 2.55 Flap
The Reissue 2.55 Flap is a direct homage to the original handbag designed by Coco Chanel in February 1955, hence the name. Reintroduced by Karl Lagerfeld in 2005 to mark its 50th anniversary, the Reissue features the signature Mademoiselle turn-lock (which was replaced by Lagerfeld on the Classic Flap) and a chain strap without leather threading, staying true to Chanel’s original vision. It comes in multiple sizes, from Small/224 to Maxi/227, but the 227 is most commonly seen at auction.
19 Flap
Introduced in 2019 as Karl Lagerfeld’s final design for the house, the Chanel 19 Flap pays tribute to the original 2.55 while offering a modern, relaxed twist. Named after the year of its release, the 19 features oversized diamond quilting, a bold double CC turn-lock, and a distinctive tri-tone chain strap combining gold, silver, and ruthenium finishes
Available in multiple sizes, Wallet on Chain to Maxi, the Chanel 19 is crafted in a range of materials, including lambskin, goatskin, tweed, denim, and seasonal fabrics like silk and sequins.
Wallet on Chain (WOC)
The Chanel WOC is a compact crossbody that functions as both a wallet and a small handbag. Included in this section as it’s often seen as an entry-level Flap due to its lower price point. It includes card slots, a zippered compartment, and enough space for essentials.
Boy Bag
Launched in 2011 by Karl Lagerfeld, the Boy Bag stands out with its boxy shape, bold lines, and oversized hardware. Named after Coco Chanel’s great love, Boy Capel, it represents a more androgynous, modern side of the brand. It’s a staple for those who prefer structure and edge over traditional femininity. The Medium size is mostly commonly seen at auctions.
Sizes & Measurements*
Mini – 15 x 10 x 6 cm
Small – 20 x 12 x 6 cm
Medium – 24 x 15 x 8 cm
New Medium – 28 x 18 x 9 cm
Large – 30 x 21 x 10 cm
*Measurements may vary slightly depending on year and condition of the bag, as pre-loved pieces naturally soften over time.
Coco Boy
The Coco Boy is a hybrid that combines elements of the Boy Bag and other Chanel Flap silhouettes.
East West Flap
The East West Flap is a sleek, rectangular bag that's wider and shorter than the classic flap, giving it a baguette-style silhouette. It has a slim profile, making it a perfect evening or under-the-arm bag. Though discontinued, it remains highly sought-after for its unique proportions and versatility.
Top Handle Flap
A refined take on the entire Flap range, the Top Handle Flap includes an added structured handle for hand-carrying, along with the signature leather-chain strap. It merges vintage elegance with modern function.
Chocolate Bar Flap
The Chocolate Bar Flap is a distinctive variation of Chanel’s classic flap design, named for its square-quilted pattern that resembles a chocolate bar. Typically crafted in soft lambskin leather (but can come in season/ limited editions), it features the iconic interlocking CC clasp and a leather-threaded chain strap. Available in various sizes, including mini and East West baguette styles, it is less commonly seen than the Classic Flap.
Coco Pleats
The Coco Pleats bag combines Chanel’s signature quilting with delicate pleated leather for a soft, feminine aesthetic. It usually features a flap or zip closure and subtle CC branding. This lesser-known style stands out for its romantic texture and graceful design.
Coco Rider
The Coco Rider merges classic Chanel quilting with a moto-inspired, edgy design. It features a structured silhouette, bold hardware, and often comes with a wide leather-and-chain strap. This style is perfect for those who want a contemporary twist on Chanel's heritage.
Sport Flap
The Chanel Sport Flap is part of the brand’s more casual, athleisure-inspired collections. Often made from nylon, coated canvas, or other lightweight materials, it includes bold logo details and practical touches like zip pockets or mesh panels.
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