Yves Saint Laurent (‘YSL’, or Saint Laurent ) was founded in 1961 by the French designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé. Originally renowned for revolutionising women's fashion, the brand eventually expanded into a full lifestyle label. This included bags and accessories that have become iconic in their own right.
Yves Saint Laurent's Expansion into Accessories and Leather Goods
YSL's shift into accessories and leather goods marked a turning point after its couture and ready-to-wear success. In the 1960s and 1970s, YSL’s accessories were minimal and elegant, often designed to complement the clothing collections. Belts, scarves, and jewellery were the earliest staples, usually reflecting the artistic and cultural references that inspired Saint Laurent himself, such as Moroccan motifs, Pop Art, and the bohemian Parisian aesthetic. Costume jewellery pieces from this time, especially those attributed to Robert Goosens, are highly sought after by collectors.
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The Influence of Gucci's Acquisition on YSL’s Accessories
The shift to bags became more deliberate in the late 1990s and early 2000s, after Gucci acquired YSL. From the late nineties, under the creative direction of Tom Ford, who was creative director of both brands at the time, YSL began focusing on accessories as major revenue drivers. Ford brought a modern edge to the brand, which translated into luxury handbags with high-fashion appeal. The Mombasa bag (and associated collections) remain a controversial but standout piece from the Tom Ford years.
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The Yves Saint Laurent Muse
However, it was under Stefano Pilati, who succeeded Ford in 2004, that YSL's bag game began to solidify. Pilati introduced several enduring designs, most notably the Muse and Muse Two bags. The Muse, launched in 2006, was a large, structured bowler bag with a subtle logo and minimal hardware. These characteristics made it an understated classic beloved by celebrities and fashion insiders alike. The Muse Two, a follow-up released in 2008, offered a more casual, satchel-like silhouette with a sophisticated blend of textures and colours.
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Hedi Slimane’s Rebranding of YSL: Saint Laurent Paris
In 2012, Hedi Slimane took over as creative director and rebranded the ready-to-wear line as Saint Laurent Paris. This sparked both controversy and a resurgence of global interest. Slimane’s approach was edgier and more rock 'n' roll, aligning the brand with the tastes of a younger generation. Importantly, this era ushered in the reimagining of the YSL handbag. The Sac de Jour, released in 2013, quickly became a flagship piece. With its structured shape, accordion sides, and discrete branding, it embodied modern luxury while nodding to heritage craftsmanship.
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During Slimane's tenure, the Cassandre Monogram line rose to prominence. Introduced around 2014, these bags prominently featured the interlocking YSL logo, originally designed by artist Adolphe Mouron aka “Cassandre” in 1961, making a bold statement in the age of logomania. The Kate, Loulou, and Envelope bags became instant hits, appreciated for their versatility, elegance, and recognisability.
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Anthony Vaccarello Takes the Helm at Saint Laurent
After Slimane’s departure in 2016, Anthony Vaccarello assumed the creative helm. Vaccarello has continued to expand and refine the accessory lines, emphasising the sleek, Parisian aesthetic that defines Saint Laurent. Under his leadership, bags like the Sunset and Niki have gained popularity for their chic simplicity and timeless appeal.
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YSL’s bags and accessories have evolved from subtle complements to commanding statements of luxury and style. What began as an extension of Yves Saint Laurent's revolutionary vision has matured into a globally recognised symbol of fashion innovation and enduring elegance.
Fellows’ regular auctions of Handbags & Accessories frequently feature both vintage and more modern pieces from Yves Saint Laurent.
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