The Look of Love

Now you have that wonderful, Bacharach classic in your head, on to Lot 5 in the 16th June 2016 Antique & Modern Jewellery auction. It was an interesting and unusual eye miniature memorial ring, also known as a “lover’s eye”. It sold for a price realised of £2,424.40.

The term “lover’s eye” is a fairly recent addition however, the origin of these pieces date right back to the late 18th century. As it often goes with origin stories, the exact facts are somewhat blurry. The most popular tale relates to George IV (the Prince of Wales at the time) and his love affair with the Catholic commoner Maria Fitzherbert. In the late 18th century not being of noble birth and a Catholic in a protestant country put somewhat of a dampener of your chances of bagging a prince, especially one soon to be a king. The story goes that Maria rejected the Prince’s first proposal however, after unsuccessful suicide attempt by the future King she accepted but fled to Europe.

In an attempt to get his fiancée to return to England, the Prince sent her another proposal letter with the following note:

“P.S. I send you a Parcel … and I send you at the same time an Eye, if you have not totally forgotten the whole countenance. I think the likeness will strike you.” [1]

Within the aforementioned parcel was a miniature of the Prince’s eye painted by the renowned artist Richard Cosway. Evidently the present worked and the pair were married in 1875. No official record of this painting exists however, there are some fantastic examples in private collections and museums around the world. The portrait below comes from the private collection of Nan and David Skier, recently exhibited at the Birmingham Museum of Art in Alabama.

The pearls and diamonds form a tear, transforming a lover’s portrait into an object of remembrance. This piece was given in memory of the Hon. Donough O’Brien by his wife the Hon. Rose O’Brien. It wouldn’t be uncommon for a brooch such as this to have a panel containing hair to the reverse of the piece.

The fascinating ring not only had a beautiful eye portrait miniature on the front but the reverse is inscribed “Dorcas Philip died 7 Sept 1805, Ages 60”. This inscription and the date sat perfectly with the transition from purely romantic to ones that were inspired remembrance. Having someone’s face on a piece of memorial jewellery encourages the wearer to grieve and having just their eye seems more intimate.