The Dirty Dozen military watches were designed by the British Ministry of Supply for soldiers during the final stages of the Second World War. These iconic timepieces later gained their nickname following the 1967 war film The Dirty Dozen, directed by Robert Aldrich. Just like the twelve soldiers in the movie, the collection features twelve distinct watches, each produced by a different Swiss watch manufacturer.
Today, Dirty Dozen watches are some of the most collectable military timepieces, highly prized for their historical significance, rarity, and functional design. Recently, four examples—two by Record, one by Cyma, and one by Vertex—were auctioned at Fellows Auctioneers, drawing significant interest from watch collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Why Are Dirty Dozen Watches So Rare and Valuable?
The rarity of these military watches significantly contributes to their desirability. Production numbers were limited:
- Vertex: Only 15,000 units produced
- Record: 25,000 units produced
- Cyma: 20,000 units produced
All twelve models share specific design features that adhere to the Ministry of Defence specifications:
- Stainless steel cases
- Arabic numeral hour markers
- Subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock
- Black dials
- The British Broad Arrow military stamp
- Triple "W" engraving on the caseback (Watch, Wrist, Waterproof)
Insight on the Dirty Dozen Watches
Laura Bishop, Watch Manager at Fellows Auctioneers, stated:
“The Dirty Dozen may be known as the infamous American war film from 1967, but in watch collecting circles, it refers to twelve highly sought-after military watches commissioned by the British Ministry of Defence during WWII. Collectively or individually, these watches are exceptionally collectable.”
She added:
“Twelve Swiss watch brands were contracted to produce these military wristwatches: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. Fellows recently auctioned fine examples from Cyma, Record, and Vertex.”
Dirty Dozen Watches Sold at Fellows
VERTEX: A stainless steel military issue 'The Dirty Dozen' wristwatch
Price Realised: £806.00
CYMA: A stainless steel military issue 'The Dirty Dozen' wristwatch
Price Realised: £884.00
RECORD: Another stainless steel military issue 'The Dirty Dozen' wristwatch
Price Realised: £988.00
A Timeless Piece of Military History
Whether collected as a complete set or individually, Dirty Dozen watches represent a remarkable piece of WWII and horological history. With limited numbers produced and rising demand, these watches are a testament to wartime craftsmanship and functionality.
Valuations
If you are looking to find out how much your watch could be worth, why not speak to our specialists? Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. With a valuation, our experts will provide you with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
Fill in a form online, or you can book an appointment to visit our offices in Birmingham and London. We can also offer you a virtual valuation appointment.
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