Rolex Submariners

The Rolex Submariner is widely regarded as one of the most iconic and influential watches ever created. Introduced in 1953, it was designed to meet the demands of professional divers, setting a new standard in the world of timepieces.

When Rolex released the Submariner, it was a ground breaking achievement for the time. Its water resistance of up to 100 meters was revolutionary for the watch industry. The Submariner was also one of the first watches to feature a rotating bezel. This allows divers to easily track their immersion time—a crucial feature for safety during dives.

Its 40mm stainless steel case provides optimal protection for the internal mechanism, while the bold dial, with its large luminescent markers, ensures legibility in low-light underwater conditions. The iconic unidirectional bezel, originally developed to ensure divers could only shorten, rather than extend, their dive times, has since become a defining characteristic of the Rolex Submariner.

Over the years, the watch has evolved while staying true to its origins. Modern versions of the Submariner feature Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom bezel, which is virtually scratchproof and highly resistant to fading. Additionally, the introduction of the "Maxi Dial" in recent models has enhanced the watch's readability.

Rolex Submariner in Auction

Lot 147

Price Realised: £8,676

The Rolex 5513 is often considered one of the best entry points for starting a Submariner collection. With one of the longest production runs of any Rolex model, from 1962 to 1989, it is more readily available than some of its vintage counterparts, making it relatively affordable. The 5513 is powered by the automatic calibre 1520 movement and, like many early Submariners, features no date function. The 1967 example we have on offer predates the modern 116610LN by fifty years, yet visually, the differences are subtle. Today’s models have a slightly larger crown, protective guards, and a thicker case, showcasing how Rolex evolves its designs incrementally. The matte “Meters first” dial on this piece has retained much of its original color, in contrast to the more aged markers on the earlier 5508.

Lot 123

Price Realised: £16,588

Next, we highlight a 1970 reference 5512. Similar in appearance to the 5513, this example stands out due to the more pronounced aging of its luminous markers and hands. Notably, the dial features the more common “Feet first” text on the lower half. Inside is the calibre 1570 movement, a step up from the 1520 with the addition of a “Breguet overcoil” in the escapement. With its lower production numbers and chronometer certification, the 5512 is more sought after than the 5513, making it an excellent choice for discerning collectors.

Lot 107

Price Realised: £19,140

The 1680 is the first Submariner in this collection to feature a date window, complete with the signature Cyclops magnifier lens. While some purists argue that this disrupts the dial’s symmetry, others appreciate the added practicality—after all, missing a dive by a day wouldn’t be ideal! Known as the “Single Red” due to its striking line of red text, this model is powered by the calibre 1570 chronometer-grade movement. It retains the robust Oyster case and bracelet, embodying Rolex’s commitment to both form and function.

Lot 148

Price Realised: £29,348

Perhaps the most collectible of all, the 1973 Military Issue “Milsub” stands out among the vintage Submariners. Unlike the others, this watch features a fabric strap instead of a steel bracelet. Originally equipped with sword-shaped hands, this 5513 model now sports the signature Mercedes hands, swapped during a service over its 48-year life. What sets this watch apart is its incredible history, documented through accompanying paraphernalia such as photographs, logbooks, and certificates from the diver who originally owned it. Even a Royal Engineers Diver jumper is included, adding to its allure as a highly collectible timepiece.

Lot 134

Price Realised: £8,932

From 2007, the 16610 represents the youngest Submariner in this lineup. Often referred to as the last of the five-digit Submariners, it features the highly regarded calibre 3135 movement. A distinguishing feature of this model is its aluminium bezel insert, the last of its kind before Rolex transitioned to ceramic bezels with the 116610. While ceramic is more durable, the aluminium bezels develop a unique patina over time, giving vintage models like the 16610 a distinct character that appeals to collectors.

Lot 122

Estimate £18,000 - £26,000

The oldest Submariner in our collection, the 5508, was produced between 1958 and 1962. Known as the “Small Crown” due to its lack of crown guards, this model was the last Submariner to feature a 100-meter depth rating on the dial. Powered by the automatic Rolex calibre 1530, this vintage piece exudes charm, with its beautifully aged patina, faded bezel, and discoloured luminous markers. Its timeless appeal and historical significance make it a true gem for collectors.