Mrs Newman

Mrs Charlotte Isabella Newman (née Gibbs) (1836-1920) was a pioneering female jewellery designer and maker in the 19th century.

Mrs Newman’s Early life

As a young woman, she studied at the Government School of Design, at Somerset House in London (better known to us today as the Royal College of Art) and continued to educate herself, even travelling to Paris and further around Europe, taking inspiration from the various museums she visited on the continent. 

Back in England, she began her career as an apprentice to John Brogden, a prominent goldsmith and manufacturing jeweller of the Victorian era. Brogden’s designs were inspired by archaeological and Renaissance artefacts. Isabella was equally captivated by these, and she took inspiration from the techniques of the past, incorporating them into the jewellery, such as granulation, which originated approximately 5000 years ago, and consists of covering a surface in granules of precious metal. 

Brogden and Newman exhibited at the World’s Fair exhibitions in Paris, in 1867 and 1878. The 1878 fair was a particular success for them both, with Brogden being awarded the Légion d’honneur and Newman the Médaille d’honneur for her contribution to the work.

Mrs Newman’s

When John Brogden passed away in 1884, Charlotte started her own Jewellery business, incorporating many aspects of Brogden’s workshop, including some of the workers. Based in the bustling West End of London, and proudly bearing the name “Mrs Newman’s”, the business quickly took off, attracting the interest of various journalists.

Word spread quickly about this talented jeweller and goldsmith. Her reputation increased and she enjoyed commissions from far and wide- including one for the Empress of Russia, in 1899. 

Mrs Newman moved her business in 1897 to 10, Saville Row. She continued to produce Jewellery there, keeping the window display sparse as she believed this would protect her designs from being copied. 

Whilst Charlotte enjoyed many successes, she was often prevented from succeeding further in her work. She was barred from taking part in certain artistic organisations, purely due to the fact she was female. However, she was invited to give a lecture at the Royal Society of Arts in 1884, on the art of goldsmithing. She passed away in January 1920. However, her legacy as the leading ‘lady goldsmith’ of the Victorian era lives on, with her jewellery being featured in the William & Judith Bolinger Gallery at the V&A Museum in London. 

Mrs Newman at Auction

Today Mrs Newman’s jewellery appears at auction infrequently. The scope of her inspiration led to her using a variety of gemstones and enamels, resulting in a fine range of pieces to suit many tastes.

Fine Jewellery | Thursday 21st March 2024

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