Category Archives: Watches

Heuer used a variety of chronograph movements over the years evolving as the pressures of technological advance, the buying public or the company accountants took their turns. The most sought-after engines are those found in the earliest Autavia and Carrera watches, such as the Valjoux 72 which also sits behind the dials of the first Rolex Daytonas, Breitling AOPA Navitimers, Enicar Sherpagraphs and other auction star-performers. A gentleman’s stainless steel Cortina chronograph bracelet watch. Less appreciated, although with their own cult following, are the chronograph movements from the latter days of Heuer before the brand evolved into TAG Heuer. In 1974, a mere five years after the launch of the world’s first automatic chronograph movements, the Lemania 5100 appeared and in 1983 it found its first use in a Heuer. The 5100 was a remarkable evolution in five years, being cheaper to make, easier to service and using innovative materials such as Dupont’s Delrin, a light, tough, self-lubricating polymer in its construction. Its appeal was not only the cost of production, it was robust and shock resistant and the dial layout, moving the minute recording hand to the central dial stack increased legibility; no wonder the watch was adopted by the armed forces of several nations. Continue reading →
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Dive watches are a cornerstone of watch collecting, if, to mix architectural metaphors a niche can also be a cornerstone. Some of the most recognisable and desirable models of the last 65 years have been dive watches and model names. Examples include Submariner, Seadweller, and Seamaster, which are almost as well known as the brands they belong to. There are still dive watches to uncover that do not share this level of renown and yet still manage to be as fascinating and provocative as the two from Fellows’ July 2017 Watch Sale. FAVRE-LEUBA – a gentleman’s Bathy 50 bracelet watch. Back in 1962 Favre-Leuba, one of Switzerland’s oldest watch brands, launched their Bivouac watch. Designed for climbers, the case contained a diaphragm that allowed air-pressure and hence altitude to be measured. Six years later they had refined the technology sufficiently to allow this pressure measurement to take the next logical step, from the heights to the depths. The Favre- Leuba Bathy 50 was the first watch with a mechanical depth gauge (note, the Bathy 160 released at the same time was no better, it just measured in feet rather than metres). Continue reading →
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