Tag Archives: Calatrava

In this blog, we will discuss a brief history of the Patek Philippe Calatrava watch and its contribution to the world of horology.  History of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Patek Philippe trademarked the name Calatrava in the late 1800s. The origin of the name goes back to the 12th Century when it was used as a symbol of Calatrava knights in Spain and Portugal. In 1932, brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern invested in Patek Philippe after the company struggled through the Great Depression. The Stern company was previously a dial supplier to Patek Philippe and other Swiss manufacturers. The firm immediately started to benefit from their technical experience and business know-how.   Reference 96 The first Calatrava model produced was a reference 96. Inspired by the simple lines of the Bauhaus movement this model became an instant success. With a slimline round case, minimalist dial designs and exquisite finishing, the reference 96 was produced from 1932 to the 1960s. The name Calatrava wasn’t used for these watches until the late 1960s but retrospectively the collectors refer to simple Patek Philippe’s dress watch as Calatrava.   The first watches produced would house a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement but soon after that, it realised that reliability was an issue so Patek began the development of their own in-house movement, the calibre 120. This calibre was specifically designed for reference 96 and remained in production until the mid-1960s. Many different dial variants were produced, mostly simple versions with a subsidiary dial at six o’clock, but some examples were made with centre seconds, notably the rarest versions are the military-styled sector dials and versions with a moon phase indicator. One of these versions with five different compilations recently achieved over $5m at auction.  Another rare model is a world-time version ‘Heure Universelle’ produced in 1937 which features 24 global time zones.   Later Models In 1938 the larger version of the Calatrava was produced, reference 570. The case of this model measured nearly 36mm, followed by reference 565 which was the first water-resistant Calatrava with a screw-down case back. Then in 1949 reference 2457 was introduced with a vision to replace reference 96. However, reference 2457 only remained in production until 1958 therefore it outlasted its predecessor. Next in line was the reference 3960 in 1989 to commemorate Patek Philippe’s 150th anniversary.   During the 1990s Patek Philippe brought us reference 5000 with the main change being the introduction of a subsidiary dial to the 4.30 position, a feature that remains in current models. The first 21st-century model was the reference 5117 and it features a screw-down crown and crown guards, giving it a slightly more utilitarian and sportier look. Currently, there are several versions on offer featuring six complications.  In conclusion, there must be a reason why Calatrava has been in production for 92 years. With so many slight variations coming from this one model, it is by far the company’s most prolific. It is no surprise that this design remains largely unchanged today. In my opinion, it is the world’s best dress watch and I believe it will remain in production for many more years to come.  Patek Philippe Calatrava at Auction Lot 103 Patek Philippe – a Calatrava watch, 33mm. Price Realised: £8,190.00 Lot 106 Patek Philippe – a Calatrava watch, 34mm. Estimate: £14,000 – £20,000 Watches | Thursday 4th April 2024 Viewing times (ID required): London Tuesday 26th March 12:00-19:00 Birmingham Wednesday 3rd April 10:00-16:00 Thursday 4th April 8:30-09:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Richard Griza | Watch Specialist