Tag Archives: Must de Cartier

Cartier first began producing watches in the early 20th century, beginning with the Santos. They quickly progressed into being one of the most creative watchmakers in the world. Join us as we appreciate some highlights from Cartier’s impressive back catalogue of watches. Cartier built their name on quality and luxury. Every aspect of owning an item by Cartier is designed to be as opulent as possible. This focus on excellence quickly translated itself into their approach to watchmaking. Louis Cartier and Edmund Jaeger reached an agreement in 1907 for Jaeger to create movements exclusively for Cartier. In hiring one of the most famous names in watchmaking, Louis Cartier ensured his watches were of the highest calibre (excuse the pun). This relationship spawned the European Watch and Clock company which was founded in the 1920’s. Cartier used movements from other companies during this period. EWC items were considered the more premium items and could fetch a higher price. We often see intervention and modification, so finding one in its original condition is exciting. Cartier Tank One of the most iconic watches ever made, the Tank, was introduced in 1919. Inspired by the new developments of the Great War. The design was influenced by the presence of Art Deco and has remained one of the most recognisable watch styles. Suitable for both men and women, it has been worn by the likes of Muhammad Ali and Princess Diana. There’s a reason why some form of Tank has been in Cartier’s lineup continuously from its introduction. It is a simple, classy watch that appeals to almost everyone. The Tank’s popularity allowed Cartier to profit significantly from the Must De Cartier line increasing the accessibility to Tanks. The Must de Cartier Tank’s popularity continues to grow, and we have seen even greater interest in the watch recently. Cartier Baignoire There has been, of late, a growing interest in the lesser-known models of Cartier’s history. Perhaps the most prominent example of this is the Baignoire. Introduced in 1912, the Baignoire for the longest time didn’t even have a name. It was not until the 50s that the Baignoire name was formally born. The official story is that Louis Cartier took the shape of a regular, circular, watch and simply stretched it out. This watch became foundational in Cartier’s creation of other watches, namely the Baignoire Allongée, the Maxi Oval and the Crash. The Baignoire, though, seems to have avoided acclaim until recently. Despite being an undeniably beautiful design, it appears to have not gained much significance until recent developments. In 2023 Cartier re-released the model in their Watches and Wonder showcase. Cartier’s designers re-invigorated this model by putting it on a bangle. This was then seen on the wrists of some of the most famous people in the world. The Baignoire acts as something of a rejection of the mantra that ‘bigger means better’. This has had a pervasive influence over watch designs of late. The Baignoire is unabashedly small, simple, and elegant. It is a simultaneously eye-catching and understated watch and is something different to other popular Cartier watches. Cartier Crash I must make a slight detour for perhaps one of my favourite watches of all time, the Cartier Crash. The design is, supposedly, based on a Baignoire Allongée that had been involved in a car crash. Recent evidence suggests that it came from an adaptation of the Oval watch that Cartier London had been producing. The result was a Dali-esque surrealist masterpiece that has, in recent years particularly, gained very considerable interest and desirability. Cartier has produced the Crash in limited numbers due to the trickiness of its design. The limited supply of Crashes has seen the prices achieved for the pieces steadily climb. They have become one of the ultimate prizes for collectors of vintage Cartier. Famous proponents such as Tyler, the Creator, is extremely public in their affection for the design. Cartier Ceinture Another relatively underappreciated watch in Cartier’s lineup is the Ceinture. With an octagonal ridged case, you could be mistaken for thinking it is something of a lovechild between the Tank and the Santos Dumont. Originally introduced in 1927 and then later re-issued in 1973, interest in the watch appears to have been modest. Perhaps the most intriguing part of the watch is the cover over the crown. Dubbed ‘remontoir imperdable’ or ‘captive winding’ by Cartier, this feature survives to this day in the form of the Balon Bleu. Doing away with the famous cabochon sapphire in the crown, the majority of these pieces appear to feature octagonal crowns instead. The Ceinture is a sleek and classy watch. Cartier has reintroduced other underappreciated models, which continue to be left in the wilderness to this day. The name is the French word for belt, Cartier decided the watch reminded them of a belt buckle. On this occasion, Cartier’s interest in metaphorical naming appears to somewhat undersell the watch. Rather than being a simple utilitarian belt, the Ceinture is a sleek and classy dress watch. It can easily compete with any number of other Cartier creations in this realm. The Ceinture is a strikingly distinctive watch and provides the opportunity to own an unusual piece. Why Choose a Cartier Watch? Cartier is not just about aesthetics, there is functionality behind most of the designs they produce. Take the original Santos, for example. Designed with aviation in mind, the Santos provides legibility and ease of use, whilst still maintaining an aesthetically minded approach. Even Cartier’s more obscure designs appear to maintain this link between design and usability. The Basculante was introduced in the early 1930s as a contemporary rival of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso. It is perhaps the most obvious example of this. Both the Basculante and the Reverso were designed to protect the glass of the watch by flipping. The Basculante adds a third function, it allows it to be used as a travelling desk clock. Cartier has this uncanny ability to do something simultaneously quite abstract and interesting while maintaining a degree of elegance. With a strong watchmaking pedigree, Cartier has produced a back catalogue of brilliant designs and fascinating concepts. Cartier is a luxury, and owning a Cartier has become a symbol of elegance. They are special watches, and they are some of the most highly finished watches available. Vintage Cartiers are growing in appreciation amongst the wider public. As this develops, I hope that Cartier will continue to harness this fascination by reintroducing some of their more obscure pieces. Cartier Watches & Watch Accessories at Auction Lot 10 Cartier – a wrist watch, 25x25mm. Price Realised: £1,495.00 Lot 6 Cartier – a Must de Cartier Vermeil watch, 25mm. Price Realised: £325.00 Lot 7 Cartier – a Must de Cartier Tank watch, 20x27mm. Price Realised: £689.00 Lot 706 Cartier – a pair of boutique displays. Price Realised: £1,196.00 Watches & Watch Accessories | Thursday 14th March 2024 Viewing times (ID required): Birmingham Tuesday 12th March 10:00-16:00 Wednesday 13th March 10:00-16:00 Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Nathan Boot | MA (Hons)