Category Archives: Watches

Breitling SuperOcean

Posted on November 8, 2023 by Fellows
Breitling has a long history of creating various watches, such as the SuperOcean, Navitimer, and the Chronomat. Most people will associate the brand with timepieces relating to aviation. Arguably, their most famous watch is the Navitimer, with its slide rule bezel is possibly the most famous aviation watch ever made. Introduced back in 1952, it’s been Breitling’s best-selling watch even up to the current day. Not as well known is that Breitling was an early pioneer of diver’s ‘tool’ watches. The SuperOcean (Ref. 1004) was Breitling’s answer to dive watches other companies were producing in the 1950s, such as the Rolex Submariner, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Omega Seamaster 300m. Introduces in 1957, it was a bit of an underdog against the competition, with poor sales backing this up, and today this makes it a much harder watch to find. It’s considered that not many of these watches remain today, with some saying that fewer than a dozen examples have survived. The Breitling SuperOcean What set the first Breitling SuperOcean apart from the competition was its design, which was radical for the 1950s and still eye-catching today. It can be seen today that this design was one of the reasons why the watch had such poor sales. The dial, compared with the competition at that time, was so avant-garde, with the luminous circles behind the arrow hand markers at three, six, nine and twelve. As well as that, the watch has an interesting concave bezel, which gives it an interesting, unique profile. Such is the eye-catching dial, Breitling today has a range of watches that hark back to this design. It was certainly a watch that was ahead of its time. However, the concave bezel is one of the reasons why there are so few survivors today. Once it was used for its indented purpose, diving, seawater would collect between the bezel and the glass. This water would corrode the case, get under the crystal and, slowly, destroy the bezel. Over time it would slowly destroy the watch, one of the main reasons why so few survive today. SuperOcean at Auction The Breitling SuperOcean Reference 1004 we had in The Luxury Watch Sale on 23rd November is one of these rare survivors. It’s in a lovely original condition and features the iconic dial that has aged over time. It is Lot 21 and has an estimate of £7,000-£10,000. As well as the first generation, Breitling SuperOcean, Reference 1004, we also have the second generation in The Luxury Watch Sale, the Reference 2005, the ‘Slow-Motion’ that was launched in 1964. The Ref. 2005 has a totally different ascetic to the earlier SuperOcan. It’s much chunkier with a wider case at 42mm. It also features a circular window at 6 o’clock to let the user know if the chronograph function is active. This SuperOcean has more of the form of a true ‘tool’ watch. The ‘Slow-Motion. enables the chronograph hand to make a revolution per hour instead of one minute. This is another design Breitling have looked to the past and added to their current range, their current SuperOcean has a dial design very similar to the 1960’s Reference 2005, be in a wider range of colours and options. Lot 21 Breitling – a SuperOcean bracelet watch, 38.5mm. Price Realised: £22,100.00 Lot 18 Breitling – a SuperOcean chronograph wrist watch, 42mm. Price Realised: £6,240.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Steven Yambo | Watch Specialist Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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Cockpit Clocks

Posted on October 24, 2023 by Fellows
Cockpit clocks were the answer to some very specific issues in the aviation industry. They provide accurate timekeeping for a variety of purposes, including navigation, coordination, and safety. Cockpit clocks: a brief history In the early days of aviation, cockpit clocks were relatively simple and often resembled pocket watches. Pilots used these clocks primarily for basic timekeeping to gauge flight duration, earning them the name ‘Time of Trip’ dashboard clocks. The first of these very specific clocks were produced by Heuer in 1910. It is interesting to see how timekeeping has evolved suit the needs of the changing world. Oftentimes such innovations have come from times of conflict. If this interests you, see our talk on the history of military watches which shows how close to pocket watches the early trench watches were. Early 20th Century During World War I, aircraft became more sophisticated. The need for accurate timekeeping became more critical. Pilots relied on clocks for navigation and coordination in combat. Time was a crucial factor in mission planning and coordination among squadrons. With the expansion of commercial aviation in the 1920s and 1930s, cockpit clocks became more advanced and reliable. Navigational accuracy was essential for long-distance flights, and pilots used chronometers to calculate their position using celestial navigation methods. The importance of cockpit clocks became further emphasized during World War II. Aviators used them for timing bombing runs, coordinating formations, and ensuring precise timing in various combat scenarios. The development of more accurate timepieces, such as chronometers and chronographs, was critical during this period. Before and during the Second World War, the Air Ministry sourced many of their aviation clocks from S.Smiths & Sons (MA) Ltd. in London.  Modern day With the advent of the jet age in the post-World War II era, cockpit instruments and avionics became increasingly advanced. Precision and synchronization were vital in these high-speed aircraft. Cockpit clocks have become integrated into more complex instrument panels and used for a variety of tasks, such as timing manoeuvres, navigation, and maintaining flight schedules. As aviation technology has continued to evolve, analogue cockpit clocks have been gradually replaced by digital displays. These digital clocks are now an integral part of modern avionics suites, providing not only accurate timekeeping but also various additional functions. You can synchronise them with GPS systems, display multiple time zones, and provide timers for specific flight procedures. Cockpit clocks at auction This example is a 1954 Mark IIIA version with twelve-hour dial. Smiths supplied two versions of this clock, the other being Mark IIIB with twenty four-hour dial. This clock has a metal cased and features a Swiss-made Jaeger LeCoultre 8-day jeweled lever keyless movement with 7.5cm 12-hour dial. It has arabic numerals and a subsidiary 12-hour dial which registers the ‘Time of Trip’. Futhermore, the left-hand adjuster winds the movement and sets time when pulled out. The adjuster on the right stops the Seconds hand and another press resets the chronograph. This function allows pilots to see the total trip time as well as the current time. It is quite unusual that winder winds anti-clockwise and apparently many pilots broke these movements by trying to wind them in the opposite direction (like you would pocket or a wrist watch). Lot 617 – A military 8-day chronograph aircraft clock by Smiths, 83mm. Price Realised: £351.00 These types of clocks were fitted to a left-hand side of a dashboard of an aircraft including Supermarine Spitfires. Later versions of these clocks, such as the one we’re looking at here, were also fitted to jet aircraft such as Hawker Hunter and Supermarine Swift. I know, it is strange that jet powered fighter has a mechanical wind clock, right? Nevertheless, the movement supplier, Jaeger LeCoultre, is renowned for its build quality, accuracy and reliability. Cockpit clocks: from Spitfires to Ferraris Interestingly, after the war many of these cockpit clocks found another use as dashboard clocks in racing cars. One such clock ended up inside Ferrari 250 Testarossa that won Le-Mans 24-hour race in early 1960s. Many others have been used in rally races like Monte Carlo Rally and few are still used in historic veteran Rally today. In my opinion, such an interesting time piece would also make a pretty cool desk clock. If you are interested in the history of timekeeping and autmobiles, we have a talk about it with Simon de Burton. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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Omega Constellation

Posted on October 23, 2023 by Fellows
From time to time the stars align. Well, one occasion where they certainly did was in 1952. Four years after Omega’s 100th Anniversary, the Omega Constellation model was born. It developed from a design aptly named the ‘Centenary’ which was brought out in 1948. This design was limited to 4,000. The company saw the potential this design had and as a result, they bought out the Constellation.  Lot 107 Omega – a Constellation wrist watch, 35mm. Price Realised: £468.00 The Early Omega Constellation Initially brought out with a bumper automatic movement, in which the rotor doesn’t rotate fully but bounces in an arc shape between two springs to kinetically power the watch. This model was named after the emblem situated at the centre of all their case backs – an observatory crowned by eight stars.  The Constellation is a model which has evolved in more ways than most other watches. From earlier ‘Pie-Pan’ which got its name from its dial arrangement – which does actually look like the underside of a pie dish. It isn’t just the layout of the dial that creates the appeal, it is the precision in which it keeps its time.  All Constellation variations share one commonality, at the time of production their accuracy went beyond conventional and typical expectations.  Gerald Genta’s Take During the same period of the ‘Pie-Pan’s production, the design was also progressing into the C-Shape design, innovated by none other than Gerald Genta – the 168.017 model is personal favourite of mine with its “brick” bracelet and sleek, broad case sides and a more contemporary look than predecessor. This was a design that contributed towards cementing Genta as one of the greats. During the 1960’s, the Constellation collection sold better than Rolex Datejusts!  Lot 122 Omega – a Constellation bracelet watch, 34mm. Price Realised: £468.00 Then came the release of quartz watches with Seiko taking the lead, Omega soon followed form and released its thick-cased Beta 21 Electroquartz model. Conforming to the trends of the 1970’s with straight-lines and heavy-duty impressions. The quartz movements remained tied to Constellations with the release of the Manhattan. A Modern Omega Constellation It wasn’t until 1982 that the more modern style Constellation with integral bracelets, clawed case and Roman numeral chapter ring bezels. The claws at either side of the case were actually brought out with a pragmatic approach, to keep the gasket compressed and support the models water-resistance.  Lot 82 Omega – a ‘My Choice’ Constellation bracelet watch, 23mm. Price Realised: £390.00 Two years later they re-introduced the Constellation with automatic movements, and nearly twenty years later in 2003 Omega integrated its patented Co-Axial 2500 calibre with the Constellation Double Eagle.  It continues to be a favourite of Omega collectors, whether you find the more ArtDeco “Pie-Pan” examples exciting, rely on the Beta 21 for nostalgia or enjoy the modern Co-Axial models – everyone can agree that this will remain a shining star amongst the many great designs from Omega.  Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Kain Holroyd | Head of Watches
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Eterna Watches

Posted on October 19, 2023 by Fellows
In this blog, our watch specialist Steven Yambo takes us back in time to the 70s, and into the world of Eterna watches. Design in the 70s The 1970s was a golden time for watch design. The designers embraced the age and came out with some truly avant-garde, crazy designs. Some of these have become design classics and are among the most sought-after watches in the world today. And others, that have been dumped in the dustbin of horologic history. Some of the designs that have become iconic are by the watch designer Gerald Genta. He designed the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in 1970 and the legendary Patek Phillippe Nautilus in 1976. Also, another watch that was hugely popular in the 1970s and reflected the design of the period was the Omega Dynamic which was launched in 1968 but ran until the late 1970s. The case design and bold dial colours reflected the style of the 70s. Eterna Watches Other watch companies were also creating, original, eye-catching watches in this period. One of which was Eterna. They have a long history of making fine watches, dating back to 1856 in Switzerland. They have produced some well-known watches, such as the Kon-Tiki range, they developed a friction-reducing ball-bearing automatic movement, known as the Eterna-Matic in 1948 and established a subsidiary company making movements, ETA, back in 1932 who’s movements can be found in many famous brands such as Breitling, Tudor, Cartier and TAG Heuer, to name just a few. The Watches and Watch Accessories sale on Wednesday 25th October features some of Eterna’s 1970s eye-catching creations. These may have been forgotten over time but today they stand out as a fabulous slice of horology design.  Another factor that makes these watches stand out is their condition, they really are classed as NOS (new old stock). Eterna Watches at Auction The auction offers a rare opportunity to own one of these eye-catching watches that will have people asking you ‘Where did you get that!’ A Rolex Submariner is a fantastic watch but there are many on the pre-owned market at any given time. You may have to wait years before some of these come up for sale again! And the best bit is that with estimates between £60 and £260, they may prove to be a bit of a bargain!!!! Lot 237 Eterna-Matic – a 2002 bracelet watch, 36x38mm. Estimate: £180 – £260 Lot 239 Eterna-Matic – a SevenDay wrist watch (36mm) with Eterna-Matic watch. Price Realised: £286.00 Lot 241 Eterna – a Sonic wrist watch, 37mm. Price Realised: £130.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Steven Yambo | Watch Specialist Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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The Peter Hayman Retirement Watch Collection

Posted on September 26, 2023 by Fellows
For over three decades, Peter Hayman has certainly been a distinguished name in the world of horology. His unwavering commitment to excellence and exacting standards have earned him a stellar reputation among both watch enthusiasts and luxury retailers. We are now proud to present The Peter Hayman Retirement Watch Collection as an exclusive one-off single-owner collection of extraordinarily high-quality watches. Peter Hayman’s Legacy Lot 51: Omega – a Constellation Iris ‘My Choice’ bracelet watch, 22mm. Estimate: £900 – £1,200. Peter’s journey in the world of watches began over 30 years ago. His dedication to horology led him to serve a discerning watch-collecting audience through online platforms and his renowned shop, Parkers Jewellers in Sheffield. Over the years, his devotion to quality and craftsmanship attracted over 40,000 loyal patrons and recognition from prestigious luxury retailers such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, and the Conran shop. These esteemed establishments have come to appreciate the high quality and impeccable reputation that Peter has crafted and fostered. Here at Fellows, we have been working with Peter for over 20 years. As such, we feel privileged to host this exciting auction. Part 1 of the auction will be a live, in-person event. It features a carefully curated assortment of wristwatches renowned for their quality. Many of these timepieces come complete with service histories, original packaging, and accompanying documentation, adding to their value. Part 2 will include a selection of items from the repair side of Peter’s business, such as Rolex watch heads. These lots are sure to appeal to both aspiring and seasoned horologists. Auction Details With 34 luxury watch brands and over 209 lots, the auction offers an undeniably diverse array of wristwatches to tempt bidders. Many of these pieces are accessible, with an average lot value of around £1,500. We will provide free worldwide postage for all lots sold in this auction. One particular highlight is lot 130– the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner. This collector’s item dates back to 1991. It has remained a favourite among collectors for three decades. It’s waterproofing up to 300m or 1000ft and the Triplock winding crown makes it especially coveted by both divers and collectors! Estimate: £7,000 – £8,000 Another exciting watch is lot 49 an Omega Railmaster. This particular model has been nicknamed ‘Blue Jeans’ due to the brushed dial which gives it a denim look. It is an impressive piece, boasting a calibre 8806 movement which has a magnetic resistance of up to 15,000 gausses. Our Head of Watches, Kain Holroyd said: “It’s unusual and would be considered one of the rarer dials to acquire”. Estimate: £2,000 – £2,500 Lot 171 is a Les Historiques ‘Tour de L’ile’ wrist watch by Vacheron Constantin. This watch is a well-equipped timepiece that features a power-reserve function and a pointer date sub-dial. The smaller size of the watch, alongside the ornate lugs, give the watch a more vintage feel, connecting it to watches in Vacheron Constantin’s past. Interestingly, this watch features an engraving of the Tour de L’ile, a fortress and clock tower that was once home to the company. Built to control the Rhône river in 1219, Vacheron moved their operations into the tower in 1844 and remained there for the next thirty years. This watch celebrates Vacheron Constantin’s longstanding heritage in creating timepieces, connecting them to one of their most iconic locations. Estimate: £3,700 – £4,500 Peter Hayman Retirement Watch Collection Part 1 – Thursday 5th October 2023 Viewing times (Photo ID is required): London Wednesday 27th September 12:00-19:00 Thursday 28th September 9:00-17:00 Birmingham Wednesday 4th October 10:00-16:00 Thursday 5th October 8:30-10:00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Listen to Peter in conversation with his son, Michael. They discuss his life and career, as well as this exciting auction. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Alexandra Whittaker BA (Hons) | Head of Partnerships and Events
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Talk To Me About Franck Muller

Posted on September 5, 2023 by Fellows
If you are going to give your watch brand a tagline, “Master of Complications” is a pretty good one. Founded in 1991 by casing and gem expert Vartan Sirmakes and…you guessed it…Franck Muller, they are responsible for some of the most visually exciting and technologically impressive watches on the market. In fact, Franck Muller holds the title of “World’s most complicated wrist watch” with its Aeternitas Mega, a piece featuring no fewer than 36 complications and well over 1000 components. However, measuring 42mm wide, 61mm long, and 19.15mm thick, you really do need arms like Popeye to pull it off. Thankfully though, there are plenty of models in the Franck Muller range for those of us with more sensibly sized limbs. Franck Muller’s The Crazy Hours The watch industry more than most is conservative, and for many who operate within it, tradition trumps change every time. Not so for Franck Muller, who in 2003 introduced perhaps their most iconic watch, the Crazy Hours. Utilising a jump hour mechanism, the dial displays its numerals in an apparently random jumble with the hour hand leaping accurately from one to the next every 60 minutes whilst keeping perfect time. As luck would have it, Fellows has one such iteration of this watch coming up for sale in our September 14th Luxury Watch Sale. Featuring an 18ct yellow gold case with a multi-coloured Arabic numeral dial and blue alligator strap, Lot 54 is estimated at £3,500 – £4,500. Lot 54 FRANCK MULLER – an 18ct yellow gold Crazy Color Dreams wrist watch, 34x41mm. Price Realised: £5,980 Anybody who has worn a watch with a twenty-four hour dial like the Breitling Cosmonaute for example, knows just how tricky it is to recalibrate that bit of the brain that tells the time. At least initially, it requires a lot more conscious effort than a conventional timepiece. I’ve not had the fortune of spending a prolonged period with a Crazy Hours style watch, but can only imagine it is the best thing since sudoku for keeping your noggin in tip-top condition. A Unique Approach to Watches In 2004, a year after the introduction of its Crazy Hours complication, Franck Muller created another world first in the form of a tri-axial tourbillon. Rather than the conventional tourbillon which only negates the effects of gravity in vertical positions, this three-axis version corrects these forces in all positions. And if that wasn’t enough, this watch named the Revolution 3, was further developed later on to include a perpetual calendar; the Evolution 3.1. Whilst we won’t be seeing any of these mega complication pieces in the next luxury watch sale, we do have three other models from the Genève manufacturer up for grabs. Like the Crazy Colour Dreams watch above, two of the other lots feature the signature case style used by Franck Muller since 1987. Named Cintrée Curvex, the aesthetic provides a refreshing alternative to the round or rectangular cases seen in 99% of watches. These three-dimensional tonneau designs have subsequently become part of the brand’s DNA, making them instantly recognisable in a horological sea of sameness. Master Banker and Conquistador King by Franck Muller Lot 53 is the most complex of the Franck Mullers available, featuring a conventional time display with date, alongside two additional time zone indicators. Created in 1996 and named the Master Banker (before we all hated them), it too is housed in an 18ct yellow gold case with an alligator strap. With an estimate of £2,800- £3,200 it would appear to be an absolute bargain considering the complications. At least that is when compared to the $2.7m needed to buy an Aeternitas Mega! Lot 53 FRANCK MULLER – an 18ct yellow gold Havana Master Banker wrist watch, 31mm. Price Realised: £4,160 If like me you prefer a bracelet rather than a leather strap on your wrist, fear not, there is an option for you too. The beefiest of the quartet is a 38mm wide stainless steel Conquistador King. A traditional three-hander with date aperture to six, it comes with both the original box and its 2005 warranty papers. At £2,000 – £2,500 Lot 52 it is another great option for fans of the brand, especially those not so keen on the more flamboyant dial designs often seen in the collection. Lot 52 FRANCK MULLER – a stainless steel Conquistador King bracelet watch, 38mm. Price Realised: £2,470 Franck Muller’s Take on Pink Speaking of which! The first Franck Muller in the auction, Lot 51 makes quite the statement. If the Pink Panther needed to be somewhere on time, he would likely be wearing this. Not only would it perfectly compliment his skin tone, but it is also likely the most accurate, being the only model in the four-lot lineup using a quartz movement. With an 18ct white gold rectangular case, this Long Island reference is the odd one out both in terms of aesthetics and mechanics. However, with the familiar Arabic numerals seen frequently throughout the catalogue, it is unmistakably Franck Muller. The most affordable option for bidders at £1,800 to £2,400, it too comes with its original warranty papers dated 2005. Lot 51 FRANCK MULLER – an 18ct white gold Long Island wrist watch, 26mm. Estimate: £1,800 – £2,400 The Franck Muller company, now mostly owned by co-founder and CEO Vartan Sirmakes, is as colourful as its watches. Whilst Franck Muller the man is no longer involved to the same extent, he was a rock star among watchmakers during his heyday. Friends with Elton John, he provided watches for a host of celebrities, becoming one himself to some extent. ‘Watchland’, the company’s headquarters had a reputation like that of the Playboy mansion and it seems some of the pitfalls of such a lifestyle may have taken their toll. Significant friction between the owners, controversy surrounding the use of cheap Russian movements, dishonesty, deception and even an 8-day bankruptcy all form part of the 32-year story so far. Whilst you can say what you like about the style of the watches or the man himself, you certainly can’t accuse them of being boring! Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can therefore find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available Kes Crockett | BA (Hons)
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‘Mille Miglia GT XL Racing in Pink’ Wrist Watch by Chopard

Posted on September 4, 2023 by Fellows
With Barbie-mania sweeping the nation, we thought it would only be appropriate to look at one of the most Barbie-like watches we have seen. We shall look at the history of Chopard and the Mille Miglia race, before talking about the watch itself. A Brief History of Chopard Chopard was founded in 1860 as L.U.C. by Louis-Ulysse Chopard, a Swiss watchmaker. They quickly grew in popularity. In the early years, they were supplying watches and jewellery to a number of clients. Including, among others, Tsar Nicholas II. The brand continued to develop with successive generations of the company continuing to create timepieces. After a takeover in 1963, Chopard began to expand dramatically, increasing production significantly and gaining greater acclaim. In 1976 they introduced one of their most iconic innovations that has perhaps gone on to define the brand, the Happy Diamonds. A crossover of Chopard’s watchmaking and jewellery expertise, free-floating diamonds were sandwiched between two plates of sapphire crystal. The Happy Diamonds line was certainly a brave direction and demonstrates Chopard’s willingness to try something new. Since 1978 Chopard has been able to boast that they are one of a handful of Swiss watch companies with their own foundry. This allows them to produce their own gold alloys. In 2018 the company dedicated itself to using only ethical gold in their pieces, a noble pursuit. In 1988 Chopard began partnering the the Mille Miglia race, producing a particular sports watch collection for the yearly race. Mille Miglia The Mille Miglia is an annual open road race that first ran in 1927. It equates to roughly 1000 Roman miles. It follows a route from the city of Brescia in Lombardy, to Rome, and back. The race was established by a group of local aristocrats after the Italian Grand Prix moved from Brescia to its current home, Monza. Since 1977 it has been run as a vintage and classic car parade. The winner is the team that can finish as close to a specified time as possible. The original race has been won by familiar names such as Stirling Moss and Alberto Ascari. Every year Chopard produces a new Mille Miglia watch for the event. Every team is presented with an example with their car’s entry number engraved on the case back. The watches are known for their sporty aesthetic, accurate timekeeping, and attractive designs. The Racing in Pink Mille Miglia In 2011, Chopard introduced a new watch to the Mille Miglia lineup – a women’s watch. For the 23 years that Chopard had been producing the Mille Miglia range up to that point, they had never made a watch aimed at women. To describe this watch as pink would be a slight understatement. It is pink. So pink that Barbie would be jealous. To add to the motorsport aesthetic, the pink rubber strap is designed to look like a Dunlop race tyre from the 60s. But it is not just about looks. The watches in this line are, as already mentioned, highly accurate timepieces; COSC certified chronometer and hacking function. This pink diamond bedazzled piece gives even some of the most premium watches a run for their money. Limited to just 250 pieces, this diamond set example goes up for auction in the Luxury Watch Sale on the 14th of September.   Lot 48 CHOPARD – a stainless steel Mille Miglia GT XL ‘Racing in Pink’ wrist watch, 44mm. Price Realised: £3,900 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can therefore find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available Nathan Boot BA (Hons), MA (Hons) | Junior Cataloguer
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SEIKO 7A28-7009 – “Ripley”

Posted on August 31, 2023 by Fellows
Amongst all of the iconic variations that Seiko has created since the early 20th Century; one separates itself from the ‘Arnie’, ‘Turtles’ and ‘Pomex’ designs. However, it retains the Seiko aesthetic. It is the 7A28-7009 – also known as the ‘Ripley’. Before we get into how this watch became the commodity it is, let’s talk about how the design came to be. The History of Seiko Design Seiko’s story began in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori began selling and repairing clocks in central Tokyo. Eleven years on the first ‘Seikosha’ factory opened up. Now 130 years later there have been many collectible pieces released by them as a company. Also, many collaborations with designers. One collaboration in the early 1980’s was with Giorgetto Guigario. Giorgetto Guigario, an award-winning designer was approached. He was known for creating cars such as the Alfa-Romeo 105/115 Series and Lotus Espirit S1. There was an assurance that his design process would splice and incorporate his early arched, curving shapes and nuanced angular style. This style would later influence his other celebrity-status work – the DeLorean. This style being at the height of fashion throughout the 1980s’s was sure to catch eyes (or grab faces). And, maybe, contribute to exterminating the odd Xenomorph here and there. Other watches that were fashionable in the 1980s were the Omega Constellation Manhattan, the Citizen Aqualand and Casio Calculator watch. If you see all of these designs, you wouldn’t be wrong for thinking that the 7A28-7009 incorporated practicality, sleek aesthetic and bold designs all into one configuration. The Futuristic Style of Ripley Guigario brought his retro-futuristic approach to Seiko, pairing up to release the 7A28-7000 and more importantly the 7A28-7009. Giorgario knew there was to be a mechanical disposition to this collection. So naturally, the four-part release was named ‘Speed Master’ – but it all began with the ‘Ripley’. Aptly named after Sigorney Weavers character in the James Cameron’s sequel, Aliens. It shows off a boxy aesthetic with chronograph pushers sitting atop and beneath the remarkable, rectangular segment that protrudes from the right side of the case. Its unusual design quickly became one of Guigario’s most recognizable watch creations. Once attained, it would surely become the protagonist of anyone’s collection. The Ripley features bright yellow pushers and hour markers within the matte black case of the 7A28-7009 at 42mm and 7A28 quartz movement, one of the earliest quartz analogue chronograph movements created, which are particularly hard to find if a replacement was ever needed. The 7A28A movement was introduced with the Sports 100 line of chronograph watches in the early 1980’s. It was created with a certain reliability that lasted much longer than other movements of its time. Also, it was composed of all metal with no plastic parts. It can be regulated through its rotary step switch which adjusts accuracy. This particular movement differs from the usual chronographs by also having three pushers, the stopwatch start/stop button at 2:00, the reset button at 4:00 and the third pusher at 10:00 is a split button, which functions to stop the upper of two hands and keeping the bottom one continuing. ‘Ripley’ at Auction One very strange aspect of lot 217 in our Luxury Watch Sale taking place on 14th September, is that it is in fact stamped ‘SAMPLE’ on the case back. Sample watches are identical to usual models however usually are non-functioning, sometimes with no movement at all and are given to salesmen. Lot 217 has been priced at £1000 – 1500 due to the rarity of the watch and the fact that it is a sample watch, making it one of the more exceptional Seiko’s to come by and highly desirable. Lot 217 SEIKO – a PVD-coated stainless steel Sports 100 ‘Alien’ chronograph bracelet watch, 43mm. Estimate: £1,000 – £1,500 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can therefore find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available Kain Holroyd | Head of Watches
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The Fellows Award: Horology & Jewellery

Posted on August 10, 2023 by Fellows
What is a Fellows Award? We are proud to sponsor two annual awards at Birmingham City University‘s School of Jewellery. The Fellows Award is given in two main areas of the school and our business, Jewellery and Horology. As a Jewellery Quarter-based company, we think it is important to support the School of Jewellery at Birmingham City University. As well as the annual awards, we also offer paid internships and part-time employment to students during their studies. Many recent graduates go on to work with us in our Jewellery and Watch teams. Many BCU students will recognise our name from the Fellows Room at the School of Jewellery, used for teaching diamond grading. We are so grateful for the continued generosity of Fellows Auction House in recognising and rewarding our student achievement in what is a long standing relationship with such a valued employers of our graduates and a Jewellery Quarter neighbour.Jeremy Hobbins Deputy Head of the School of Jewellery A great evening, and an amazing opportunity for the students to showcase their work, and talk to the many industry contacts who attended.  The school and staff are all proud of the high levels of achievement, both academic and practical, demonstrated by students, which justifies it’s position as one of the leading educational providers in this field.Andrew Fellows Gemmology and Diamond Lecturer This year, we caught up with the two Fellows award winners Charlotte Royle and Alexander Downing to hear about their award-winning student projects. Valuation Module: The Fellows Award 2023 Part of the gemmology and jewellery studies degree at BCU jewellery valuation. As part of their degree, students are able to use purpose-built facilities at the Assay Office. We also often host students for practical days in industry at our Jewellery Quarter head office and saleroom. “I am absolutely delighted to have won the Fellows & Sons Award for Jewellery Valuations 2023 at the BCU Inspired Awards.  Its an honour to have won this award amongst my incredibly talented university peers, and I would like to thank my tutors at BCU Gemmology & Jewellery Studies dept for their unwavering help and support these last few years.  This award further ignites my desire to continue exploring a career in the captivating world of jewellery valuations.  Thank you Fellows & Sons for your generous award, I am truly honoured!” Horology Prize : The Fellows Award 2023 As part of their final year, horology students at Birmingham City University produce a Major Project. Alexander won the Fellows Award – the Horology Prize for Technical Application to Theory for his final year project. “I’d like to thank Fellows Auctioneers for their extremely kind and generous sponsor of the Fellows Prize. It gives me a great deal of comfort and reassurance to be recognised in such a niche subject as Horology and I hope that more companies will join in the support toward future student’s efforts.” Join the team We’re always looking for enthusiastic people to join the Fellows team. If that sounds like you, why not check out our employment opportunities page? We offer part-time work for current students as well as full-time roles to recent graduates. Fellows is one of the fastest-growing independent auction houses in the UK, holding close to 80 auctions every year. We offer excellent employment opportunities for those passionate about jewellery, watches, antiques, silver and collectables. Fellows remains a family business after over 140 years; we take pride in our friendly manner and excellent customer service. This helps to build long-term, supportive relationships with employees and clients alike. We would be keen to hear from anyone looking to join the auction world. Please email us your CV and a cover letter.
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Oris: Independent and Proud

Posted on August 2, 2023 by Fellows
With almost 120 years of watchmaking heritage, Oris is a strong independent brand that produces high-quality watches at mid-range price points. They are known for their unique approach to watchmaking, striving to bring joy to their users, and embracing the quirky side of life. We shall be taking a brief look at the history of the company and its development throughout the last 119 years. The Early Years Founded in 1904, Oris quickly grew to over 300 workers in 1911, becoming the major employer in their hometown of Hölstein and soon expanded into multiple factories. They created their first wristwatches in 1925, fitting straps to their pocket watches. The company has gone on to be one of the largest watch manufacturers in the world. It’s name is highly respected in the watch community. In 1927, Jacques-David LeCoultre (yes, that LeCoultre) became President of the Board. This era represents an interesting crossover in Oris’ history and demonstrates the watchmaking heritage it holds. For most of its existence, it has been an independent company. But, that did not preclude it from developing strong relationships with the other companies around it. Jacques-David LeCoultre had his hands in many pies at the time, being involved in Patek Philippe, Vacheron, and Constantin, his own company Jacques LeCoultre and LeCoultre & Cie which ultimately merged with Edmond Jaeger to create Jaeger-LeCoultre, one of the most renowned watchmakers in the world. In 1938, Oris introduced two features that have gone on to be a defining feature of the brand – the big crown and the pointer date. Created with pilots in mind, the oversized crown allowed those wearing thick leather gloves to adjust their watches. The pointer date complication is not only an attractive feature but also makes it easier to see the date at a glance. During World War 2, Oris’ market was understandably limited, and their production was restricted to just 200,000 pieces a year. To work around this and to keep the company afloat, Oris began producing alarm clocks for the mass market. Without these, Oris may not have survived the war and developed into the brand we know today. Go Your Own Way: Oris’ Independent Spirit Throughout its history, Oris has been defined by its independence and its readiness to go its own way. During the Quartz Crisis, where other brands panicked and grouped together, Oris broke free of the group they were in through a management buyout. Later, where other companies were pursuing quartz in order to compete with the East, Oris decided to abandon quartz and focus solely on producing mechanical watches with unique and interesting designs with mid-range price tags. This, alongside their independence, has allowed them to develop a unique brand image that focuses on the more fun, quirky side of life, rather than the typical interests of Swiss watch manufacturing. In 1990, they produced ‘The Players Watch’ a watch designed solely for counting football stats. In 1996 they sponsored the London Jazz Festival. Come 2003 they began sponsoring the Williams F1 team, one of the most historically successful teams in the sport. Oris has also begun pursuing sustainability goals with a passion. Engaging in cleanup operations of beaches and forests, and working to reduce their carbon footprint. Oris Today In recent years Oris has employed a bear as its mascot. The ‘Oris Bear’ has its own Instagram page and has even been featured on some watches. The Oris bear symbolises the philosophy of the company, in being a bit different from other Swiss watchmakers, producing quality watches whilst also having fun in their branding and image. The recent release of the ‘Kermit Edition’ ProPilot further demonstrates this, with Kermit appearing in the date aperture of the watch. Oris’ aim is to bring joy to the owners of their watches and they have fun with their creations. Of course, we must mention the Rolex-shaped elephant in the room. Yes, Oris may have nabbed the nickname. But, if that doesn’t typify the fun they are having in producing their watches and their ability to firmly place their tongue in their cheek, I don’t know what else will. Oris at Auction Oris watches represent great value and we frequently see them in our monthly watch auctions. From Big Crown to Artelier, Oris’ range is extraordinary in terms of quality and function, giving the major names a run for their money. For a brand with so much history (quickly approaching its 120th birthday!), Oris really does produce a great number of underrated gems. Lot 57 ORIS – a stainless steel Pointer Date bracelet watch, 25x29mm. Price Realised: £338 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can therefore find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available Nathan Boot BA (Hons), MA (Hons) | Junior Cataloguer
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“Poor Man’s Mark XI”: Hamilton’s RAF & Royal Navy Issued Pilots Watches

Posted on August 2, 2023 by Fellows
In this blog, we explore the Hamilton Watch Co. and this historic ‘Poor Man’s Mark XI’ watch. We look at the exciting history of this watch and question if its unflattering nickname is deserved. Hamilton Watch Company History Hamilton Watch Co. was founded in Lancaster Pennsylvania in 1892 and the production began with pocket watches. Railroad timepieces were among the first ones to be produced as there was a need for accurate Railway pocket watches. The exceptional timekeeping of Hamilton pocket watches earned them the title ‘The Watch of Railroad Accuracy’. In 1969, Hamilton Company took over Buren Company and its facilities in Switzerland. It remains a Swiss brand today. Military Heritage Hamilton’s cooperation with the US military began in 1914. The high quality and accuracy of its timepieces earned the company a prestigious Army-Navy ‘E’ Award, The practicality of wristwatches meant that production numbers quickly increased. During WWII all civilian production ceased as the task of supplying the US military was enormous. In fact, between 1942 and 1945 Hamilton produced over 1 million wristwatches and high-quality marine chronometers for the US military. Marine chronometers were rigorously tested to an accuracy of 1/100th of a second per day. Many different types of military wristwatches were produced during this period. Between 1965 and 1976 Hamilton also produced nearly 40000 watches for the British Military, most of those included a hack function to allow synchronization of watches during military operations. Pilot’s and Navigator’s Watches ‘6B- Mark XI’ Approximately 3200  ‘Mark XI’ watches were thought to be produced, made to the same specification as their more expensive and exclusive counterparts Jaeger-LeCoultre and IWC Mark XI’s. Two versions of this ‘6B’ watch were supplied to the British MOD and issued to RAF and Royal Navy crews from the mid-1960s to mid-1970s. Both featured a stainless steel screw-back case, manual wind movement, standard black luminous iron dial with ‘T’ for Tritium and an anti-magnetic iron dust cover. The dust cover and dial created a so-called Faraday Cage around the movement. The first version produced was ‘6B 9101000-H’ with calibre 75, followed by the second version, ‘6B H67’ with calibre H 75S which also benefited from a hacking function. It is estimated that less than 1000 watches of this rarer type were made. Prices for both versions/patterns have been increasing steadily in the last few years but they are still much more affordable than IWC and JLC Mark XIs. Is Poor Man’s Mark XI Justified? In conclusion: Is the unflattering nickname the collectors gave this watch justified? In my opinion, it’s undoubtedly not. It is a lot more than just a poor man’s Mark XI. Instead, it is an impressive, well-made piece of military kit and a historically important timepiece that deserves to be admired and preserved for future generations. Certainly, it is a very good starting point for a military watch collector or enthusiast and you get a lot of watch for your money. Poor Man’s Mark XI at Auction In our previous Watch and Watch Accessories auction on 10/08/23 we welcomes one of each of these watches: Lot 91 HAMILTON – a stainless steel military issue wristwatch, 36mm. Price Realised: £1,235 Lot 92 HAMILTON – a stainless steel military issue wristwatch, 36mm. Price Realised: £884 This was not the first time, however, that we have had watches with an exciting military history come through our auction. In August of 2020, Fellows welcomed a full set of the rare Dirty Dozen watches. If you would like to find out more about this auction you can browse our archives and also read our blog. Lot 169 A complete collection of military “Dirty Dozen” watches. Price Realised: £28,999 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can therefore find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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Raymond Weil

Posted on July 28, 2023 by Fellows
A Brief History of Raymond Weil Raymond Weil was born in 1926, in Geneva. He joined Camy Watch Company in 1949 learning the ins and outs of the watch trade for 27 years. At the age of 50, he pursued the dream of creating his namesake brand at the crest of the Quartz Crisis; an intrepid venture which turned out to be very successful, earning him the renowned status that he and the brand still holds today. What Was the Quartz Crisis? In 1954, Bulova designed the Accutron. It was developed by the Swiss engineer, Max Hetzel. This was the predecessor to the quartz watch, as it was battery-powered. This differed from earlier watches that were either manually, or automatically by a rotor. Then in 1964, Seiko produced the QC-951 alongside the slogan “All watches will be made this way”. Due to a decline in Swiss watchmaking from 1970 – 1983, American and Japanese companies were able to exploit this. They followed the battery-powered trends, and gain huge popularity during this watch industry explosion. Because of this, Swiss watchmakers dropped from 1,600 to as low as 600. Despite the Crisis… Raymond Weil saw what was happening and saw an opportunity. He did not want to create ‘just another quartz watch brand’. Instead, he created what was marketed as the “entry-level luxury watch”. Even though the American Hamilton and Japanese Seiko brands were top of the food chain, he wanted the Swiss watchmakers to play a part in the quartz area of the market. This attracted new and well-versed collectors. It became the innovation that massively supported the Swiss industry alongside the Swatch Group at a time of need. Travelling the continents, he took inspiration. With him, he carried his enthusiasm and understanding of the market. He put together an international network to build the brand we know today. One of the few independent Swiss family-run watch brands still around. Post-Crisis Oliver Bernheim, Raymond Weil’s stepson, joined the brand in 1982. Offering his contemporary vision and developmental mindset, he took care of the communication and marketing side of the business, acknowledging that the foundation of the brand is that it is a family-owned company. He became President and CEO in 1996. Such recognisable collections as the Parsifal, are made with luxury materials and designed to appeal to connoisseurs and new-found enthusiasts alike. Joined by the Tango and the Tradition, a design meant to embody heritage and simplistic elegance. Lot 139 RAYMOND WEIL – an 18ct yellow gold Parsifal bracelet watch, 22mm. Price Realised: £2,210.00 Musical Inspiration The brand Raymond Weil was always influenced by music artists. This was recognised in the early 1980s with the Amadeus collection, named after the Austrian composer Mozart. Such models as the Fidelio, Toccata and the feminine collection, Fantasia followed form. Following on from that, the Othello model was designed with new and forward-looking technology. It was compressed into an ultra-slim case for the 10th anniversary of the brand in 1986. Lot 186 A gold plated quartz Raymond Weil Othello wrist watch. Price Realised £165.88 This all contributed to determining, and moulding who and what the brand is and could be. Also ensuring the brand’s relatability to consumers. They also collaborated in more recent times with venues such as the Royal Albert, VH1 Save the Music Foundation, ACMF and events such as the BRIT Awards.The relationship with music has become instrumental to their marketing. For their 40th anniversary, they introduced the limited edition The Beatles collection, inspiring the Buddy Holly and David Bowie models. Raymond Weil, Modern Yet Traditional Sticking to their roots as a family-run business to this day, they have innovated and grown exponentially, producing their own tourbillion and in-house movements such as the calibre RW1212. The family and the brand have shown it knows how to finesse its designs, keep up with the times and yet still pay homage to what it started as. Run by 3rd generation Elie Bernheim it continues to be inventive, carrying on as one of the most well-known watch dynasties and a leading brand in the Swiss watch brand industry. Raymond Weil Watches at Auction In our previous Watch and Watch Accessories auction on 10/08/23 we had several examples of Raymond Weil watches. Lot 178 RAYMOND WEIL – a gold plated Othello wrist watch, 29x26mm. Price Realised: £130 Lot 179 RAYMOND WEIL – a stainless steel Parsifal chronograph bracelet watch, 42mm. Price Realised: £403 Lot 176 RAYMOND WEIL – a bi-metal Parsifal bracelet watch, 18x26mm. Price Realised: £143 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can therefore find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available Kain Holroyd | Head of Watches
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Return of the Jedi: The Story of the Omega Seamaster ‘Jedi’

Posted on June 29, 2023 by Fellows
Fair warning to Omega fans; this might get controversial. ‘Any Seamaster chronograph that isn’t a 145.024 is not a Jedi’ is an all-too-common refrain heard in certain corners of the vintage Omega community. I disagree. We shall be taking a deep dive into the watches known by the moniker ‘Jedi,’ rightly or wrongly. Chuck’s Jedi: the 145.024  The model that has come to be known as the ‘Jedi’ began its life simply as the Omega Seamaster, reference 145.024. It was released in the early 1970s and features the manual wind calibre 861. Also called the ‘flat case,’ it was not until the 90s that its association with Star Wars began. Chuck Maddox owned a reference 145.023 that he had nicknamed ‘Darth Vader’ due to its striking black case and dial. A variation of the 145.023 came to be known as ‘Anakin Skywalker’ and the 145.024 became the original ‘Jedi.’ These names became strongly attached to these models and they developed a cult following around them. Here is an example of this reference previously sold at one of our auctions. Lot 119 Omega stainless steel manual wind gentleman’s Omega Seamaster 145.024 wrist watch. Price Realised: £1,148.40 The Phantom Menace: the 176.005 In 2007 a new era of ‘Jedi’ watches was born. Antiquorum, a Swiss auction house, hosted ‘OmegaMania’, perhaps the largest ever sale of Omega watches at any one time with over 300 watches going under the hammer. In the catalogue for this sale the 176.005, also known as the ‘TV case,’ was dubbed the ‘so-called Jedi.’ Before this point, the watch had not been known by this name. Thus the watch was branded a ‘Jedi’ and the family grew from one to two. The 176.005 is a wonderful watch and does not deserve disdain due to its ‘Jedi’ nickname. Some have gone to great lengths to critique it as not being a ‘true Jedi.’ The squarish ‘TV case’ gives it a unique vintage appeal and is reminiscent of older CRT televisions. It is powered by the automatic calibre 1040, Omega’s first automatic chronograph which filled the majority of the 176.XXX line. This movement has a strong cult following of its own. There was even a certified chronometer version dubbed the calibre 1041. Rogue One: the 176.007 This model of the Seamaster is not the ‘Jedi,’ nor is it even the Jedi from 2007. It has ended up being known as a ‘Jedi,’ however. Antiquorum’s naming in 2007 opened the floodgates for other Omega watches to be branded as ‘Jedi’ by dealers and sellers. The nicknames were perpetuated and the name was attributed to other models, including this one. While it may not be the original ‘Jedi,’ I would argue that this watch, specifically the model with blue hands, has more visually in common with Star Wars than the original ‘Jedi’ watch. The light blue centre-seconds hand looks so much like Luke Skywalker’s lightsaber that you can almost excuse anyone for assuming this model to be a ‘Jedi.’ The two subsidiary recorder dials are also reminiscent of Anakin Skywalker’s helmet from The Phantom Menace. Given the ‘007’ numbering of the reference number, it is somewhat surprising that this watch has not ended up with a James Bond association, despite how well the Star Wars name fits (a wasted opportunity?). The Jedi Nickname It could be thought that the ‘Jedi’ nickname has been given to watches other than the 145.024 after 2007 by unscrupulous dealers to leech off their fame and increase the value of other watches. Just like the TV-case Seamaster, this watch does not need to be a ‘Jedi’ to increase its value. It is a high-quality watch on its own. However, its aesthetics connect it so strongly to the name that the argument must be there. The ‘Jedi’ nickname, then, occurred naturally for this model, in much the same way that the original watch gained its own nickname.   We at Fellows have an example of the Omega Jedi Seamaster 176.007. Lot 74 OMEGA – a stainless steel Seamaster ‘Jedi’ chronograph wrist watch, 38mm. Price Realised: £2,080.00 A New Hope: The Future of the ‘Jedi’ Two of these models are not the ‘original’ Jedi that Chuck Maddox gave the name, but they have undoubtedly become Jedis. These models and their relatives have ended up, in one way or another, being known as Jedis. Given that the original’s nickname is not contemporary to the model and only became the ‘Jedi’ in the 90s, any model could have become known as the Jedi – it just so happens that it was the 145.024 that Chuck Maddox owned. Once something ends up with a nickname, it can be hard to shake it off, and some people have been trying to draw the lines of distinction between models. I will concede that the overlapping nicknames for the models could cause some confusion, particularly for less informed buyers (and would suggest, perhaps, nicknaming the model ‘Luke Skywalker’ or something similar). But, if we acknowledge that 145.024 was the original, and are aware of how the references 145.005 and 145.007 got their nicknames, we should be allowed to continue to give the ‘Jedi’ designation to any watch that suits it. Limiting the nickname to one model even defeats the purpose of the nickname in the first place. The ‘Jedi’ nickname was chosen because the watch reminded Chuck Maddox of the movies of which he was a big fan. The 145.007 gaining the nickname continues this tradition. By allowing other models to gain the nickname we can bring in new members to the world of vintage watch collecting as they fall into the rabbit hole of the myriad of models and how they came to be. 145.007 at auction Lot 221 – 28/06/2016 OMEGA – a gentleman’s gold plated Seamaster chronograph wrist watch. Price Realised: £1,173.92 Lot 147 – 31/01/2017 OMEGA – a gentleman’s gold plated Seamaster chronograph wrist watch. Price Realised: £1,046.32 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can therefore find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Nathan Boot BA (Hons), MA (Hons) | Junior Cataloguer
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International Watch Company – Mark XI

Posted on June 29, 2023 by Fellows
When you think of military watches, usually the first examples that come to mind are the Dirty Dozens, A. Lange & Sohne pilot’s watches or even Panerai Radiomir wrist watches made for the Italian Navy. One watch that is sought after, demands a premium, yet is regarded less in the grand spectrum of battle-hardened timepieces is the IWC Mark XI. A bit of information on the IWC Mark XI… As hardy and as durable as they come, made with a thick iron dial and wrap-around dust cover, this military issue wrist watch was highly regarded – for a lengthy 36 years – in the military and is still renowned to the collectors who seek them out, as if it was their own duty and mission objective. The Mark XI is the only watch that was ever routinely serviced annually to ensure its high precision timekeeping. It’s powered by the esteemed caliber 89, and its practicality never failed the pilots that wore this model. Waterproof, shockproof, and with an unmistakably clear-to-read dial, no wonder they were so highly regarded and well-kept. This watch was also briefly produced for the public towards the end of the models’ run. Clear quarterly luminous indicators and brightly contrasted white hour markers to the black backdrop of the iron dial made it easy for the pilots to read. Masterfully crafted all round, the British Broad Arrow was printed on the dial, case and even the movement. Lets take a look at an IWC Mark XI. Lot 161 IWC – a stainless steel Mark XI military issue wrist watch, 36mm. Price Realised: £4,420.00 What about the IWC Mark X? The IWC Mark X was created as part of the Dirty Dozen bunch, which was created by twelve different Swiss brands in various limited batches. IWC created 5,000 of these military wrist watches for the Second World War. The Mark IX helped RAF pilots in the Battle of Britain, therefore they couldn’t churn out Mark X’s quick enough! They only slightly vary in aesthetic. With no subsidiary seconds’ recorder dial but similar hour markers and quarterly luminous indicators also. Recognisably descendant from the Dirty Dozen IWC, yet still standing out as its own model and relatively more modern looking than its predecessors. The last consignment of this model was delivered to the Australian air-force in 1978. Ten later after seeing the premium this watch demanded, IWC brought out the Pilots Watch Chronograph Mechaquartz. This was highly influenced by the Mark XI. What happened once the Mark XI was discontinued? After the Mark XI was discontinued there were numerous other ‘Mark ***’ pilot wrist watches brought out. One which was exceptionally rare, was the Mark XII as they were produced in extremely small numbers. They continued this line but missed out 13 and 14 as the numbers are unlucky in parts of the world. The 19th edition was also missed but we’ll move past that to the most recent example of the ‘Mark’ pilots’ watches, the Mark XX, a 2022 release which is reportedly superior to the XVIII edition (but for $750 more!) it’s obvious that these IWC’s are still sought after whether a new release or one of the original XI pieces from 1948. The Mark XX is still available to buy on IWC’s website here Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can therefore find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Kain Holroyd | Watch Cataloguer
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The Omega Seamaster ‘Pre-Bond’

Posted on June 28, 2023 by Fellows
I’m old enough to remember the late 1980’s / early 1990’s. Back then, if you were in the market for a good divers watch you could wear every day, the Omega Seamaster would have most probably been on your list. Unfortunately for Omega, TAG Heuer had released the 2000 Series which at that time was heavily marketed. This, along with the colourful and fun Formula 1 model, managed to capture the public’s imagination. As a result, despite Omega’s rich history, people would walk past the Omega Seamaster ‘Pre-Bond’ and spend their money on a new shiny TAG Heuer 2000!!! Omega and James Bond As a result, today there are many TAG Heuer 2000 Series available on the secondary market whereas the Omega Seamaster ‘Pre-Bond’ is a much rarer find. The watch gains its ‘Pre-Bond’ nickname from, simply, being the Seamaster before the blue wavy dial model that Pierce Brosnan wore in the 1995 James Bond film, Golden Eye. The ‘Pre-Bond’ was released in 1987 and phased out in 1995 being replaced by the range that featured in the film. ‘Pre-Bond’, The Variations The ’Pre-Bond’ came in many variations. There were automatic and quartz models, a smaller 38mm and a larger 40mm version which was available in either stainless steel or bi-metal (stainless steel and 18ct gold). Also, there were dial and hand variations. The only things the models had in common were the case design and integral bracelet that screams late 1980’s style! James Bond Watches at Auction Lot 80 in our previous Luxury Watch Sale could, arguably, be one of the more desirable of these variations of these Omega ‘Pre-Bonds’. It’s stainless steel with the automatic movement, stick hands, and a very wearable 38mm case. It has an estimate of £500-700, which with the prices of vintage and interesting models from the major watch rising in recent years, it could be worth a second look! Lot 80 OMEGA – a stainless steel Seamaster ‘Pre-Bond’ bracelet watch, 38mm. Price Realised: £1,144.00 If this model doesn’t float your boat, The Luxury Watch sale also features other Omega Seamaster models. This is including ‘Bond’ and later styles, including Lot 72 which is a very nice chronograph. Lot 72 OMEGA – a stainless steel Seamaster Professional 300M chronograph bracelet watch, 42mm. Price Realised: £3,250.00 Here at Fellows, quite a few James Bond-related watches have been sold over the years. In 2022 we sold a pair of limited edition Omega Seamaster Professional 300M ‘James Bond’ wrist watches. Lot 115 OMEGA – a pair of limited edition Seamaster Professional 300M ‘James Bond’ wrist watches, 42mm. Price Realised: £25,520.00 Also, we sold a Swatch limited edition ‘James Bond’ collection of twenty watches with presentation case. Lot 67 SWATCH – a limited edition ‘James Bond’ collection of twenty watches with presentation case. Price Realised: £4,402.20 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can therefore find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Steven Yambo | Watches Manager
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