Tag Archives: dirty dozen

Movado Watches: RAF Issues

Posted on November 10, 2023 by Fellows
Movado Watch Company History We can trace the early history of the Movado Watch Company to 1881 and the famous Swiss watch-making town of La Chaux-de-Fonds. When it was first founded by Achille Dittesheim it was just a small workshop. Together with his brothers Leopold and Isidore they expanded and moved into a modern 20th century factory. By 1905 the company was employing 150 workers and was producing high-quality pocket watches, at that point the company was just called Movado (from the Esperanto word ‘always in motion’). In the modern era, the company is probably most famous for the Bauhaus-inspired Museum Watch designed by American designer Nathan George Horwitt in 1947. Movado only produced two types of wristwatches for the military during WWII: the ‘Weems’ pilots watch and the 6B159 pilots and navigators standard issue wristwatch. 6B159 ‘Family’ When collectors talk about RAF-issued 6B159 watches we normally think of Omega and Longines versions and perhaps their ‘Weems’ versions that need no introduction. Many of these aviator watches were worn during The Battle of Britain. All manufacturers produced to the same RAF specification with white non-luminous dials, black Arabic numerals, centre seconds and blued steel non-luminous hands. These watches are collector’s pieces for sure but in our industry, you do see a fair few. However, we seldom see the Movado version. In my 15 years of researching and collecting watches I have seen many Omega and Longines examples, but when this Movado turned up at our office I got quite excited. The truth is I have never seen one before. Movado Watches at Auction In our November Luxury Watch Sale, one such watch was featured. In my opinion, this is a good, honest example of a rare watch. Interestingly the RAF ‘downgraded’ Movado from 6B159 (Pilots and navigators type) to 234 (standard issue ground and airborn crew wristwatch). Reasons for the downgrade are not known but perhaps some examples did not perform as they should during operations. The downgrading meant case backs of these watches were re-engraved and the watches were re-issued. Our research suggests the majority of the already very limited production was reissued. The few examples known to the market all have 6B159 crossed off and 234 added. The fact that this watch has not been re-engraved makes it even rarer. The Watch has the original unrestored dial, original blued steel hands and of course the original case (don’t forget many 6B159s we re-cased post-war). The watch features a 15 jewel movement, calibre 75, signed Movado Swiss Made and a stainless steel case back. The case back is stamped 6B159 9215/42 (Made in 1942). In conclusion, colletors will always want original untouched examples of rare military watches and this one certainly does it for me. Lot 269 Movado – a military issue wrist watch, 33mm. Price Realised: £1,170.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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“Poor Man’s Mark XI”: Hamilton’s RAF & Royal Navy Issued Pilots Watches

Posted on August 2, 2023 by Fellows
In this blog, we explore the Hamilton Watch Co. and this historic ‘Poor Man’s Mark XI’ watch. We look at the exciting history of this watch and question if its unflattering nickname is deserved. Hamilton Watch Company History Hamilton Watch Co. was founded in Lancaster Pennsylvania in 1892 and the production began with pocket watches. Railroad timepieces were among the first ones to be produced as there was a need for accurate Railway pocket watches. The exceptional timekeeping of Hamilton pocket watches earned them the title ‘The Watch of Railroad Accuracy’. In 1969, Hamilton Company took over Buren Company and its facilities in Switzerland. It remains a Swiss brand today. Military Heritage Hamilton’s cooperation with the US military began in 1914. The high quality and accuracy of its timepieces earned the company a prestigious Army-Navy ‘E’ Award, The practicality of wristwatches meant that production numbers quickly increased. During WWII all civilian production ceased as the task of supplying the US military was enormous. In fact, between 1942 and 1945 Hamilton produced over 1 million wristwatches and high-quality marine chronometers for the US military. Marine chronometers were rigorously tested to an accuracy of 1/100th of a second per day. Many different types of military wristwatches were produced during this period. Between 1965 and 1976 Hamilton also produced nearly 40000 watches for the British Military, most of those included a hack function to allow synchronization of watches during military operations. Pilot’s and Navigator’s Watches ‘6B- Mark XI’ Approximately 3200  ‘Mark XI’ watches were thought to be produced, made to the same specification as their more expensive and exclusive counterparts Jaeger-LeCoultre and IWC Mark XI’s. Two versions of this ‘6B’ watch were supplied to the British MOD and issued to RAF and Royal Navy crews from the mid-1960s to mid-1970s. Both featured a stainless steel screw-back case, manual wind movement, standard black luminous iron dial with ‘T’ for Tritium and an anti-magnetic iron dust cover. The dust cover and dial created a so-called Faraday Cage around the movement. The first version produced was ‘6B 9101000-H’ with calibre 75, followed by the second version, ‘6B H67’ with calibre H 75S which also benefited from a hacking function. It is estimated that less than 1000 watches of this rarer type were made. Prices for both versions/patterns have been increasing steadily in the last few years but they are still much more affordable than IWC and JLC Mark XIs. Is Poor Man’s Mark XI Justified? In conclusion: Is the unflattering nickname the collectors gave this watch justified? In my opinion, it’s undoubtedly not. It is a lot more than just a poor man’s Mark XI. Instead, it is an impressive, well-made piece of military kit and a historically important timepiece that deserves to be admired and preserved for future generations. Certainly, it is a very good starting point for a military watch collector or enthusiast and you get a lot of watch for your money. Poor Man’s Mark XI at Auction In our previous Watch and Watch Accessories auction on 10/08/23 we welcomes one of each of these watches: Lot 91 HAMILTON – a stainless steel military issue wristwatch, 36mm. Price Realised: £1,235 Lot 92 HAMILTON – a stainless steel military issue wristwatch, 36mm. Price Realised: £884 This was not the first time, however, that we have had watches with an exciting military history come through our auction. In August of 2020, Fellows welcomed a full set of the rare Dirty Dozen watches. If you would like to find out more about this auction you can browse our archives and also read our blog. Lot 169 A complete collection of military “Dirty Dozen” watches. Price Realised: £28,999 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can therefore find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available Richard Griza | Watch Specialist
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International Watch Company – Mark XI

Posted on June 29, 2023 by Fellows
When you think of military watches, usually the first examples that come to mind are the Dirty Dozens, A. Lange & Sohne pilot’s watches or even Panerai Radiomir wrist watches made for the Italian Navy. One watch that is sought after, demands a premium, yet is regarded less in the grand spectrum of battle-hardened timepieces is the IWC Mark XI. A bit of information on the IWC Mark XI… As hardy and as durable as they come, made with a thick iron dial and wrap-around dust cover, this military issue wrist watch was highly regarded – for a lengthy 36 years – in the military and is still renowned to the collectors who seek them out, as if it was their own duty and mission objective. The Mark XI is the only watch that was ever routinely serviced annually to ensure its high precision timekeeping. It’s powered by the esteemed caliber 89, and its practicality never failed the pilots that wore this model. Waterproof, shockproof, and with an unmistakably clear-to-read dial, no wonder they were so highly regarded and well-kept. This watch was also briefly produced for the public towards the end of the models’ run. Clear quarterly luminous indicators and brightly contrasted white hour markers to the black backdrop of the iron dial made it easy for the pilots to read. Masterfully crafted all round, the British Broad Arrow was printed on the dial, case and even the movement. Lets take a look at an IWC Mark XI. Lot 161 IWC – a stainless steel Mark XI military issue wrist watch, 36mm. Price Realised: £4,420.00 What about the IWC Mark X? The IWC Mark X was created as part of the Dirty Dozen bunch, which was created by twelve different Swiss brands in various limited batches. IWC created 5,000 of these military wrist watches for the Second World War. The Mark IX helped RAF pilots in the Battle of Britain, therefore they couldn’t churn out Mark X’s quick enough! They only slightly vary in aesthetic. With no subsidiary seconds’ recorder dial but similar hour markers and quarterly luminous indicators also. Recognisably descendant from the Dirty Dozen IWC, yet still standing out as its own model and relatively more modern looking than its predecessors. The last consignment of this model was delivered to the Australian air-force in 1978. Ten later after seeing the premium this watch demanded, IWC brought out the Pilots Watch Chronograph Mechaquartz. This was highly influenced by the Mark XI. What happened once the Mark XI was discontinued? After the Mark XI was discontinued there were numerous other ‘Mark ***’ pilot wrist watches brought out. One which was exceptionally rare, was the Mark XII as they were produced in extremely small numbers. They continued this line but missed out 13 and 14 as the numbers are unlucky in parts of the world. The 19th edition was also missed but we’ll move past that to the most recent example of the ‘Mark’ pilots’ watches, the Mark XX, a 2022 release which is reportedly superior to the XVIII edition (but for $750 more!) it’s obvious that these IWC’s are still sought after whether a new release or one of the original XI pieces from 1948. The Mark XX is still available to buy on IWC’s website here Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can therefore find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Kain Holroyd | Watch Cataloguer
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