Category Archives: Jewellery

Colombian Emeralds Not all gemstones are made equally! Some are far more desirable than others, for example, Sri Lankan, Burmese, and Padparadscha sapphires. However, when it comes to emeralds, it is Colombian emeralds that are world-renowned for their exceptional quality, rich colour, and unparalleled beauty. Mined from the country’s emerald-rich regions, particularly in the Andes, these gemstones have been coveted for centuries. The Muzo, Chivor, and Coscuez mines are the primary sources of these stunning stones. As a matter of fact, the Muzo mine is – to this day, the most important emerald mine in the world. Their unique geological conditions are what give these gems their distinctive green hue and high clarity. Because of this, the finest Colombian emeralds are considered to be among the most valuable and rarest gemstones in the world. They are often highly sought after by collectors, jewellers, as well as gemstone connoisseurs. Therefore, if you’re looking for a truly exceptional gemstone, a Colombian emerald will be an excellent and timeless choice. Emeralds have been officially mined in Colombia for over 500 years, and the industry has played a significant role in the country’s economy as well as culture. Because of this, the Colombian government has implemented regulations to ensure that the mining of these emeralds is responsible and sustainable. The History of Colombian Emeralds The first recorded emerald mines date back over 2000 years to Ancient Egypt in 330 BC. One of the most famous historical figures to love these green stones was Cleopatra. While she was Queen she claimed ownership of all the emerald mines in the Egyptian empire. To the Egyptians, emeralds were a symbol of protection, and they were believed to have the power to predict future events. In the Americas, archaeologists believe that pre-Colombian people such as the Muzo people, had been mining emeralds since 500 AD. This is apparent in their mythology and culture. There is one particularly important myth, the story of Fura and Tena, that firmly places emerald at the centre of cultural development. The myth goes that the supreme god, Are, created Fura and Tena to populate the world. They were promised eternal youth as long as they stayed faithful to one another – Fura, however, did not remain faithful. Eternal youth was taken away from them and they aged rapidly. Are then took pity on the pair, and instead turned them into huge cliffs in order to protect them from the elements. In these cliffs, the Muzo people found emeralds and believed them to be Fura’s tears. The two cliffs are considered sacred and are still the official guardians of Colombia’s emerald zone. In the 16th century, the Spanish conquistadors overpowered many of the indigenous people in the Americas and subsequently took over emerald mining. Colombian Emeralds at Auction Lot 293 Colombian Emerald and diamond ring Estimate: £10,000 – £15,000 Alongside this stunning Colombian example, we have several other emeralds in our auction. Our particular favourites are: Lot 29 Emerald & diamond earrings Estimate: £600 – £800 Lot 146 Victorian 18ct gold emerald & diamond ring Estimate: £500 – £700 Jewellery | 25th January 2024 Viewing times (ID required): London
  • Tuesday 16th January 12:00-19:00
  • Wednesday 17th January 10:00-16:00
Birmingham
  • Tuesday 23rd January 10:00-16:00
  • Wednesday 24th January 10:00-16:00
  • Thursday 25th January 8:30-10:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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The Royal Corps of Signals, a vital component of the British Army, has a rich history that spans over a century. Established in 1920, this corps has played a crucial role in maintaining communication on the battlefield. They handle all the ways soldiers talk to each other, whether it’s through radios, computers, or other high-tech equipment. Their responsibility is to make sure that everyone in the army can communicate effectively and securely, whether they’re on the battlefield or in a command centre. In this blog, we explore the history of this important institution and its symbolism. The History of the Royal Corps of Signals The history of the Royal Signals Corps dates back to the late 19th century when the use of telegraphy became increasingly crucial for military communication. In 1884, the Telegraph Battalion Royal Engineers was established, marking the initial steps towards a specialised signalling unit. As technology advanced, so did these units. This ultimately led to the formation of the Royal Corps of Signals in 1920. During World War II, the Corps played an undeniably crucial role in enabling communication between troops. They were instrumental in maintaining secure and efficient lines of communication. This significantly contributed to the success of Britain’s military operations. The Corps continued to adapt to changing technologies in the post-war era, incorporating innovations like radio and later, digital communication systems. Over the years, the Royal Signals Corps has been involved in numerous conflicts and peacekeeping missions worldwide. They have played key roles in operations in places like Korea, the Falkland Islands, Iraq, Afghanistan, and more. The Corps has continually embraced emerging technologies. Today, the Royal Signals Corps remains an integral part of the British Army, ensuring the effective communication of information in the modern era. Royal Corps of Signals Symbolism The cap badge of the corps clearly reflects their aims and duties. We see Mercury – the Roman messenger god, atop a globe. He is flagged by the corps’ motto: the Latin phrase ‘certa cito’ which translates to Swift and Sure. Interestingly, members of the corps refer to this image of Mercury as Jimmy. It’s unclear where this odd nickname originated from. One theory suggests it is derived from the name of the Italian sculptor, Giambologna, who originally carved the statue of Mercury that the badge borrows. This theory is not particularly popular, however. A more commonly accepted story is that it is named after a member of the Royal Signals; Jimmy Emblen, who represented the Royal Corps of Signals as a boxer as was the British Army Champion in 1924. Garrard Jewellers Our upcoming Jewellery auction will include a pair of earrings styled after the Royal Corps of Signals badge. These 9ct gold earrings are by the internationally renowned jeweller: Garrard. Garrard is sometimes said to be the oldest jewellery house in the world and holds a prestigious position as the former Crown Jeweller of the United Kingdom. The brand has a long-standing association with the British royal family and has crafted numerous pieces of regalia and ceremonial jewellery, including the Crown Jewels and Princess Diana’s engagement ring. The company was established by George Wicks in 1735 and became a prominent jeweller in London. Over almost 300 years, Garrard has continuously created exquisite and distinctive pieces, showcasing a commitment to craftsmanship and attention to detail. The brand’s reputation for quality and elegance has made it a favourite among those seeking one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces. Earlier in 2023, we sold a very special piece by Garrard, a stick-pin that was once gifted by George V. Royal Corps of Signals Jewellery at Auction Lot 2 9ct gold ‘Royal Signals Badge’ earrings, by Garrard Price Realised: £221.00 This lot, although particularly lovely as it is by Garrard, is not the first time we’ve had jewellery bearing the Royal Corps of Signals badge through our doors. In previous auctions, we’ve seen several similar lots, as shown below. What sets this upcoming lot apart from others – aside from its prestigious maker, is that it is a pair of earrings. Typically, when we see the Royal Corps of Signals in jewellery they are normally represented on brooches to be attached to lapels or hats. The fact that lot 2 is a pair of earrings, combined with the name Garrard, makes them especially appealing and unique. Lot 53 Enamel Royal Corps of Signals bar brooch Price Realised: £143.00 Lot 626 A regimental Royal Corps of Signals enamel bar brooch Price Realised: £33.80 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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2023 is coming to an end, and Christmas is well on its way! But, many of us either are or have friends who were born in December. In order to make sure these Sagittarians or Capricorns don’t feel left out among the festive buzz, today we’re taking a look at three of the December birthstones, tanzanite, turquoise, and topaz. December Birthstones: Tanzanite Tanzanite takes its name from its country of origin – Tanzania. It is believed to have formed over 585 million years ago. However, tanzanite lay undiscovered until 1967 when it was unearthed by a Maasai tribesman. Tanzanite was identified as the blue-violet variety of the mineral zoisite. Tiffany & Co. were instrumental in the naming of tanzanite, therefore making it more marketable and consumer-friendly. Tanzanite can only be found in Tanzania, near Mt Kilimanjaro. With such a limited supply remaining, it is believed that over the next 20 years, all mines will eventually be depleted of this rare gem. Tanzanite has become sacred to the Maasai, for example, it is given to women after childbirth as an offering of prosperity. Now that the stone is traded throughout the world, today it is traditionally gifted for a 24th wedding anniversary to represent uniqueness. The world’s largest rough tanzanite crystal is ‘The Mawenzi’. This impressive stone was mined in 2005 and weighs an astounding 16,839 carats. Lot 203 Rectangular-shape tanzanite, 8.52ct Price Realised: £1,125.00 Lot 219 Two tanzanite crystals, 15.58ct Price Realised: £97.50 December Birthstones: Turquoise Turquoise gets its name from the French ‘turquois’ meaning ‘Turkish,’ relating to the Silk Road the mineral travelled from Persia, through Turkey and subsequently to Europe. Turquoise can be found in many locations worldwide, most notably in Iran, Egypt, China, and the USA. This stunning stone has seemingly always been popular, in fact, the Ancient Egyptians used turquoise as far back as 3000BC; the opening of King Tutankhamun’s tomb revealed the famous Pharaoh’s burial mask inlaid with turquoise amongst other precious gems. Persians also adopted turquoise as their national stone, the domes and walls of palaces were adorned with its intense blue hues said to represent heaven. The most sought-after variety is the ‘Persian turquoise’ this pure sky blue colour has no green overtones or black veins. The largest known rough turquoise was found in China, weighing 225 kilograms and is kept in the Shandong Tianyu Museum of Natural History in China. Surprisingly, turquoise is the only gemstone to be recognised as an official colour. Lot 502 Seven pairs of turquoises, 129.97ct Price Realised: £105.00 Lot 505 Six pairs of turquoises, 39.74ct Estimate: £60 – £90 December Birthstones: Topaz Finally, topaz. Blue topaz generally is said to represent calmness and inner peace. It comes in a range of colours, not called just ‘blue’ but also ‘Swiss blue’, ‘sky blue’, and ‘London blue’. London blue is considered the most desirable due to its deeper and darker hue. The word topaz comes from the Greek word topazion, which in turn came from the Sanskrit name for fire. Topaz was discovered in 1960 by a British explorer in Brazil. Although we associate topaz with the colour blue, the first discovered stone was yellow. The Natural History Museum in London is now home to the largest cut topaz at 15 centimetres long and weighing an undeniably huge 9,381 carats. Lot 345 Assorted rectangular-shape topazes, 86.96ct Price Realised: £112.50 Lot 351 Rectangular-shape topaz, 121.55ct Price Realised: £202.50 Altogether, topaz, turquoise, and tanzanite are stunning examples of gemstones. Any of the stones in our upcoming Gemstones auction would make a particularly lovely addition to a collection. However, here at Fellows, we are partial to blue! Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
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Georg Jensen was a Danish silversmith and designer who lived from 1866 to 1935. He is best known for founding his eponymous design company, which continues to produce high-end silverware and jewellery. Jensen was a master craftsman who learned his trade as an apprentice to a goldsmith in Copenhagen. He went on to study sculpture and became known for his love of the Art Nouveau style. Jensen’s designs were characterized by their organic and sinuous forms. He believed that well-designed objects should be both functional and beautiful, and his work continues to be celebrated for its timeless elegance. Here at Fellows, we frequently see Jensen pieces through our auctions, particularly our Silver auctions. However today, we look at his jewellery. Early Life and Career Jensen, born in Raadvad, was the son of a knifegrinder. He began his design journey at the young age of 14 with a goldsmithing apprenticeship with the firm Guldsmed Andersen. In 1884 he finished his apprenticeship and formally became a journeyman. Surprisingly, he didn’t immediately pursue silversmithing as a career although this is what he is now best known for. Instead, he enrolled in the Danish Academy of Fine Arts and studied sculpture under Theobald Stein. After graduation, he studied ceramics under Joachim Petersen. In 1892 he began to exhibit his work. The public quite positively received his sculptures. However, his wife sadly passed away during this time leaving him a widower. Despite opening a pottery studio in 1898 with Christian Petersen, the revenue was insufficient to support Jensen and his two sons. Georg Jensen Jewellery After making his first piece of jewellery in 1901, he bit the bullet and invested the little capital he had into opening his own business, a silversmithy: Georg Jensen, in Copenhagen in 1904. His unique background in both metalwork and fine art meant that he was able to seamlessly blend his skill set to produce naturalistic, serpentine, meandering designs, that utterly typified the Art Nouveau movement and style. His masterful ability to combine a craft that is often associated with harder lines and geometric shapes – metalwork, with a craft associated with organic forms – pottery, resulted in a style that is perhaps one of the most recognisable in the world of silver. By his death in 1935, Jensen was widely regarded as ‘one of the most important silversmithies in the world‘. Georg Jensen Jewellery at Auction Lot 623 18ct gold diamond ‘Magic’ ring, by Georg Jensen Price Realised: £702.00 Lot 1412 Silver necklace, Henning Koppel for Georg Jensen Price Realised: £910.00 Lot 1418 Dolphin brooch, Arno Malinowski for Georg Jensen Price Realised: £117.00 Lot 1171 Seed pearl ring, Georg Jensen Price Realised: £71.50 Lot 1416 ‘Splash’ earrings, Henning Koppel for Georg Jensen Estimate: £120 – £180 Lot 1434 ‘Splash’ necklace, Henning Koppel for Georg Jensen Price Realised: £1,144.00 Lot 1437 ‘Splash’ bracelet, Henning Koppel for Georg Jensen Price Realised: £611.00 Lot 1438 ‘Splash’ brooch, Henning Koppel for Georg Jensen Price Realised: £130.00 Lot 1753 Silver pendant, Georg Jensen Price Realised: £130.00 Lot 1264 Collar necklace, by Georg Jensen Price Realised: £208.00 Lot 1304 Silver floral bracelet, by Georg Jensen Price Realised: £266.50 Lot 1517 Silver bangle, by Georg Jensen Price Realised: £188.50 Lot 1585 Mid 20th century silver openwork pendant, by Georg Jensen Estimate: £30 – £50 Lot 1644 Silver moonstone brooch, by Georg Jensen Price Realised: £520.00 Lot 1746 Mid 20th century silver brooch, by Georg Jensen Price Realised: £214.50 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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Introduction to Fluorite Fluorite is a common mineral employed in a variety of fields. But, the best quality specimens are faceted and used for ornaments and jewellery. It is a soft gemstone, as it only reaches a 4 on the Mohs’ hardness scale. However, its incredible diversity of colours and unusual colour zoning has been appreciated by jewellers and collectors for a long time.  Lot 428 Assorted vari-shape fluorites, 42.84ct Estimate: £60 – £90 Pure fluorite, CaF2 is colourless. But, fluorite specimens are found in any colour and saturation; from delicate pastel hues to intense electric ones. This happens because fluorite is an allochromatic mineral, which means that chemical impurities within its structure cause each different colour in the gemstone.  To make this stone even more interesting is the fact that the colours are sometimes coexistent in fluorite’s structure. This creates ‘bands’ of vivid hues. Lot 429 Assorted carved fluorites, 43.7g Price Realised: £49.40 Each layer of fluorite has crystallised at different times, and the contamination of other elements in the original structure has varied over time. Generally, the concentration of these impurities does not exceed 1% but it is enough to drastically change the appearance of the gemstone.  The elements causing colours are mainly Rare Earth Elements (REE) and it is believed that manganese and yttrium contribute to the purple colour, whilst iron and copper to the green and blue, depending also on the other elements present in the structure. Natural radiation can also be a reason for the variety of colours. Especially if strong enough to modify the atomic bonds in the structure. The History of Fluorite Fluorite is mined all over the world, however, England is known for the Blue John variety, a white and purple banded fluorite that has been carved since Roman times. Thanks to the colour and size of the crystals, it was often employed for producing glasses and vases. The Egyptians valued fluorite softness and used it to carve talismans such as scarabs. It is also appreciated in China, where it has been carved for hundreds of years. Being a common mineral meant that throughout the centuries, fluorite was often confused for other gemstones, such as beryl, feldspar, glass and quartz.   Nonetheless, I believe we can agree that fluorite is one of the stones which demonstrates how beauty can be created through imperfection and impurities.  Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Arianna Pedrazzoli BA (Hons), MLitt, FGA | Gemstone Manager
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When you ask any member of our jewellery team what their favourite stone is, you will hear the resounding cry of “SAPPHIRES!”. And for good reason. Sapphires are, without a doubt, one of the most alluring stones on the market. There are several countries that are known for their enviable deposits of sapphire; Ethiopia, Kashmir, Myanmar, and Madagascar. But today, we’re focussing on Sri Lankan Sapphires. Sri Lankan Sapphires Also known as Ceylon sapphires, after the old world name for Sri Lanka, Sri Lankan sapphires are some of the most sought-after gemstones that you can get your hands on. Typically, Sri Lankan sapphires have a slightly purple hue, leaning towards a cornflower blue. However, the most desirable of all the sapphires are known as Padparadscha. These stones are unlike other sapphires as they have a gorgeous pinky-orange colour, almost coral. The name for these stones comes from the Sanskrit word for lotus colour. Sri Lanka has one of the richest deposits of gemstones, their trade is vital in the contemporary market. However, their trade has been equally important in the past. Ancient Romans, European colonial countries, and wealthy classes in China have always lusted after Sri Lankan stones. A Brief History One of the defining characteristics of Sri Lankan sapphires is their long history. Sri Lanka has been mining these stones for almost two thousand years, with one of the oldest indigenous peoples in Sri Lanka – the Veddas, discovering coloured stones in the streams. Since their discovery, people have desired these gemstones. Recently, a huge Sri Lankan star sapphire was valued at £206m. These stones are also favoured by many celebrities. For example, a ring formerly owned by Princess Diana, now the Duchess of Cambridge’s engagement ring, has a beautiful Sri Lankan sapphire at its centre. Celine Dion also wore a large Sri Lankan sapphire necklace to the Academy Awards in 1998, inspired by the ‘Heart of the Ocean’ necklace featured in Titanic. Sri Lankan Sapphires at Auction In our upcoming Fine Jewellery auction we have several stunning examples of Sri Lankan sapphires, all of which are undeniably dazzling. With estimates from £500 all the way to £20,000, these stones are truly exceptional, and at a price that should suit all. A particular favourite among our resident gemologists is lot 462. Not only is the pendant Victorian (always a winner here at Fellows!), but it is an example of a star sapphire. Star sapphires are cut into cabochons in order to display their unique optical effect. This phenomenon is called asterism, the crystal structure creates rays that when viewed from above seem to form a star-shaped pattern. Moreover, it is a particularly unique colour. When there is chromium present in corundum, the colour turns red and is then known as a ruby. Our stone sits on the edge between sapphire and ruby. Not a deep blood red, nor a royal blue. Instead, it is almost lilac. Of course, all eight of our Sri Lankan sapphires are stunning. If you are looking for a more traditional sapphire with a rich blue hue, then lot 550 might be perfect. Our Fine Jewellery auction takes place on the 30th of November, and we completely expect these sapphires to fly! Lot 20 Sri Lankan pink sapphire and diamond ring Estimate: £550 – £750 Lot 24 Sri Lankan pink sapphire and diamond ring Estimate: £900 – £1,400 Lot 186 Sri Lankan sapphire & diamond ring Price Realised: £9,490.00 Lot 193 Sri Lankan sapphire & diamond ring Price Realised: £4,030.00 Lot 296 Sri Lankan sapphire and diamond pendant Estimate: £12,000 – £18,000 Lot 300 18ct gold Sri Lankan sapphire & diamond ring Estimate: £3,500 – £4,500 Lot 462 Victorian gold Sri Lankan star ruby pendant Price Realised: £1,820.00 Lot 550 Sri Lankan sapphire & diamond ring, by Spink Price Realised: £20,800.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Ben Randall | Senior Specialist and Catalogue Manager Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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Sammy Davis Jr’s Ring at Auction Earlier this year, we welcomed a very exciting lot to our Fine Jewellery auction. It garnered a stunning amount of media attention, being featured in both local and national news. It was a ring that was once owned by the legendary Sammy Davis Jr. This timeless performer is best known for his time in the Rat Pack which he joined in 1959. He loved the stage and performed all his life until he passed in 1990. His career is marked by exceptional performances and his ability to repeatedly defy stereotypes. But his talent and hard work speaks for itself. There is no denying that his legacy is legendary, he is an icon in music history. For a deeper dive into his extraordinary life, you can read more about him here. Sammy Davis Jr was known for his extravagant and flamboyant jewellery that perfectly embodied his larger-than-life persona. He adorned himself with an array of stunning diamonds that complemented his unique style and ultimately became an iconic aspect of his image. The ring was a perfect example of this. Alongside the ring, we welcomed a fantastically huge photo album, showing pictures of Mr Showbusiness at different points throughout his life. Pictures from this photo album are dotted throughout this blog, and in my opinion, completely capture his massive personality! Sammy Davis Jr’s Watch As you can imagine, the music lovers within our team here at Fellows were all ecstatic to have such a unique piece of music memorabilia. The auction was utterly thrilling, the ring selling for an impressive £68,900. It is no surprise then, how anticipated our next Fine Jewellery auction is, given the equally extraordinary provenance of lot 130. This watch was made by the iconic brand, Bueche-Girod. Founded in 1947 by Vital Bueche, Bueche-Girod is a brand that has become synonymous with the fashion of the 70s. Their watches are instantly recognisable due to their striking use of 9ct and 18ct gold, often woven into unique patterns. The brand was known for producing excellent movements, so much so that they also provided parts to other watchmakers such as Bulova. They frequently collaborated with other watchmakers, particularly Cartier. Although production ended in the early 2000s, Bueche-Girod watches remain popular to this day. This watch is an excellent example of the brand’s flamboyant craftsmanship and perfectly captures the style of its late owner. Lot 130 is most definitely a highlight of our Fine Jewellery auction. We have sold several beautiful examples of Bueche-Girod watches in the past, but none quite as special as this. At Auction Lot 130 Bueche-Girod gold watch, Sammy Davis Jr. Price Realised: £10,140.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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Stuart Crystal was first popular during the mid-17th century. It became popular after the execution of Charles I who belonged to the House of Stuart. It is from this royal house that the jewellery gets its name. The Stuarts ruled England, Scotland, and Ireland between 1603 to 1714. They were known for their controversies, particularly the conflict between the monarchy and the parliament. Execution of Charles I Charles I was the second Stuart monarch of England, succeeding his father James I. His reign was marked by political and religious conflicts, which ultimately led to his downfall and execution in 1649. Charles believed in the divine right of kings. He often clashed with Parliament over taxation and the limits of royal power. His attempts to impose Anglican practices on Scotland led to two wars. These conflicts drained the treasury and alienated many of his subjects. Charles I was executed by Parliament in 1649 after being found guilty of high treason. The charges against him included: refusing to accept parliamentary authority raising an army against Parliament plotting to incite rebellion in Scotland Charles’s insistence on the divine right of kings and unwillingness to compromise led to years of conflict and civil war. His defeat in the English Civil War and subsequent capture allowed Parliament to try him for his perceived crimes against the state. As a result, the monarchy was then abolished. It was replaced by the Commonwealth, which was later replaced by the Restoration of the monarchy under Charles II. The House of Stuart left a significant impact on British history, politics, and culture. The execution of Charles I was a defining moment in English history. It marked the end of absolute monarchy and the beginning of constitutional government. Stuart Crystal Following the execution of Charles I, many individuals remained loyal to him. However, openly expressing such allegiance posed significant risks, such as social exclusion or worse. Consequently, people began to seek less overt ways to display their support. This ultimately gave rise to the creation of Stuart Crystal jewellery. These intricately designed and carefully crafted pieces became a popular symbol of loyalty. They were a way for people to secretly exhibit their allegiance to the Stuart cause. These jewels featured the king’s initials, a crown, or an image of him. They were not only worn as a tribute to the king, but also as wedding jewellery or love tokens. These items often featured symbols such as hearts, knots, and flowers. Stuart crystals remained popular throughout the Reformation period. Stuart Crystal at Auction Lot 674 Late 17th/early 18th c gold ‘Stuart Crystal’ slide Price Realised: £2,080.00 Lot 673 18th century gold ‘Stuart Crystal’ ring Price Realised: £806.00 Lot 504 A late 17th century gold Stuart crystal Memento Mori portrait miniature ring, depicting Charles I. Price Realised £4,083.20 Want to learn more about the English Civil War with Fellows? We have some great resources: Killing a king: the regicide of Charles I From imprisonment and trial to execution and legacy, historian Rebecca Rideal unravels one of the most important events in British history – the regicide of Charles I. Access the recording here. Charles I Stuart Crystal Ring In December 2018, Fellows sold a 17th century Stuart crystal memorial portrait ring. The ring which depicted Charles I sold for £4,083.20 (including fees).  Find out more on our blog. Pontefract Siege Coin A Charles I AR Lozenge Shilling. This coin was part of the Pontefract Siege coinage made in 1648. We spoke to historian Julian Humphrys about why this coin is so special. See the interview on our blog. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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Spiders, as a general rule, are not well-loved by humans. Arachnophobia is one of the most common fears that people deal with. I would bet many of you have experienced the sudden anxiety of seeing a spider in your bedroom and losing it two seconds later. So the question remains – why are we so obsessed with them? Spiders appear all throughout history in iconographic culture. We also see spider jewellery reoccurring all around the world and at different points in time. In this blog we take a look at the history of spider jewellery, and how different cultures have interpreted our 8-legged foes. Ancient Spider Jewellery When looking at the ancient world, spiders pop up everywhere. For example, in ancient China, they were called “ximu” which roughly translates to “happy insects”. They were believed to be good luck, and even in contemporary culture, they’re associated with happiness and wealth. In The Metamorphoses, the Roman poet Ovid recounts the story of Arachne – the woman who challenged the goddess Athena to a weaving competition. The story goes that in a fit of rage, Athena turned Arachne into the first spider. Perhaps one of the cultures most taken with the image of the spider is the Moche culture. The Moche civilisation inhabited large parts of northern Peru between 100 and 700 AD. The Met Museum in New York now houses a large collection of Moche artefacts, including many pieces of spider inspired jewellery. Their collection is vast with items such as necklace beads with anthropomorphised spiders, earrings designed as webs with a large spider seated at the centre, and geometric jewellery worn in the nose. Spider iconography is quite common in this part of the world. Other ancient cultures such as the Salinar culture, which predated the Moche civilisation, also produced jewellery featuring spiders which is held at the Met. Spider iconography in ancient Peru appears in other areas of life aside from jewellery. We see spiders decorating plates, pots, and walls. This is most likely due to a shared spider deity which frequently appears in art from this area. Into The Modern Day It is not just the ancient world that has been taken with the imagery of the humble spider. They crop up all throughout history and all around the world. The Akan people in Ghana used spiders in some of their ceremonial objects, such as this staff from the late 19th century. In Victorian England, insect jewellery was increasing popular. Jewellery modelled after butterflies, beetles, dragonflies, as well as spiders was very common. Many Victorian women took this a step further, and it is reported that they would sometimes wear live insects, often with diamonds stuck to them, on strings attached to brooches so that they would wander across their clothes. A recent example of spider jewellery in modern times is of course, Lady Hale’s brooch. Lady Hale’s spider brooch, which she wore while delivering the verdict that the prorogation of parliament was unlawful in 2019, sparked conversations all over the country. It was quite quickly adopted by feminists and was interpreted as a symbol of defiance. Hale boasts an impressive collection of brooches, many of which are insect-themed. But this particular spider really made waves. It has been replicated by many companies, and printed on t-shirts, the profits of which went to the homeless charity Shelter. Hale even went on to reference this iconic moment in the title of her most recent autobiography: Spider Woman. Although Hale has stated that she intended no deeper meaning with the brooch, its public reception is demonstrative of the power of symbols such as the spider. Spider Jewellery at Auction If you’re interested in owning your own eight-legged friend (or foe), we have several lots in our upcoming jewellery auction, which happens to fall on Halloween! We often have interesting items such as these through our doors, so it’s always a good idea to keep an eye on our auctions as you never know what might creep it’s way in! In fact, not too long ago we had an arachnid-themed watch. Be warned: it is not for the faint of heart. Lot 228 Split pearl & jade spider bar brooch Price Realised: £78.00 Lot 1050 Early 20th century 9ct gold garnet spider pendant Price Realised: £227.50 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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In the run-up to Halloween, we thought we’d do something a bit different. In this blog, we look at some haunted gemstones and the ghost stories that surround them. If you’re not one for the ghost stories, and you prefer your jewellery and gems to be ‘curse free’, we’re also happy to oblige (we’re very versatile here at Fellows!). For each story, we’ve picked some non-haunted alternatives from our upcoming gemstone auctions. Guaranteed no ghosts. Haunted Gemstones 1: ‘The Hope Diamond’ Now housed by the Smithsonian, the Hope Diamond is a huge 45.52cts, and a stunning dark greyish blue. It is undeniably a beautiful stone. In fact, its enormous size has actually helped gemmologists uncover new information about the formation of diamonds. The earliest records of this diamond show that Jean-Baptiste Tavernier acquired it in 1666 and named it the Tavernier Blue. In this form, it weighed a huge 112 3/16 French carats. Under this original name, it was sold to Louis XIV of France who included it as part of the French Crown Jewels. In 1775 the court jeweler re-cut the diamond into the smaller 68cts French Blue. Shortly after, during the French Revolution, it was stolen. The stone didn’t reappear again until 1839, being listed as in possession by the Hope family, in the 45cts form we now know. The story of the curse begins with the stone being stolen from a statue of Sita, the Hindu goddess. It is said that those who now own the stone are fated to bad luck, its owners facing gory ends. The French Royal family, for example, met a frightening demise. Prince Ivan Kanitovski supposedly bought the diamond but was soon killed by a Russian revolutionist. Kanitovski had also loaned it to Mile Ladue who was reportedly murdered by her fiance. Even the original owner, Tavernier, is said to have been attacked by wild dogs in Constantinople after bringing the stone to Paris. While it is now widely accepted that the story of the curse was fabricated by Pierre Cartier, it still makes for a thrilling tale. If you would like a diamond, without the misfortune might I suggest… Lot 50 Two old-cut diamonds, 0.81ct Price Realised: £345.00 Lot 90 Rectangular-shape diamond, 1.04ct Price Realised: £1,200.00 Haunted Gemstones 2: ‘The Black Prince’s Ruby’ Although it is called a ruby, this impressive stone is actually a cabochon red spinel. If you watched the coronation of King Charles III it is likely you would recognise the stone as it sits at the front of the Imperial State Crown. It was one of the oldest parts of the Crown Jewels, with a history dating back to the 14th century. It has been in the English royal family since 1367 when it was owned by its namesake – Edward of Woodstock. But, this stone had a history before it was in British hands. The first recorded owner of this stone was Prince Abu Sa’id of Granada. However, it was stolen by Don Pedro the Cruel of Seville. King Don Pedro was in the process of invading Granada and taking over. Supposedly, Abu Sa’id was planning on surrendering and so Don Pedro invited him to discuss the terms of his surrender. Instead, Don Pedro tricked him and murdered him. When searching through Abu Sa’id’s possessions, Don Pedro found the stone – apparently the size of an egg. It’s said that it was this cruel murder that triggered the curse that followed Don Pedro. Shortly after, his brother, Henry of Trastamara declared war on him. As Don Pedro was allied with Edward of Woodstock, he gave him the stone as payment for his support against his brother. It was then that the stone came to England. We have both rubies and red spinels in our gemstone sale, although we would strongly advise against invading Granada to get your hands on one. Lot 557 Cushion-shape red spinel, 3.86ct Price Realised: £480.00 Lot 271 Cushion-shape ruby, 13.50ct Price Realised: £127.50 Haunted Gemstones 3: ‘The Delhi Purple Sapphire’ The final stone is the Delhi Purple Sapphire. And it is a bit of a fraud. It is not a sapphire, instead, it is an amethyst. Unlike other ‘cursed’ gems, this one does trigger accidental deaths – instead, it brings misfortune, bad luck, and sorrow. This stone dates back to India,1857. The country was full of unrest due to an uprising against the British. Although suppressed, many temples and palaces had been looted. It was during this looting that a British soldier – W. Ferris, stole the amethyst from the Temple of Indra in Kanpur. When W. Ferris brought the stone back to England he faced many financial problems. At first, Ferris blamed himself. But, shortly after many of his relatives fell ill, leading him to blame the gem. In order to try and evade his misfortune he gave the stone to Edward Heron-Allen, who was also the last person to own the stone before it was given to the Natural History Museum. Heron-Allen didn’t have much better luck with the amethyst. It is reported he claimed the stone was ‘trebly cursed’, ‘stained with blood and dishonour’. In desperation, Heron-Allen threw the stone into Regent’s Canal. The stone was eventually dredged from the canal and given to a jeweller. Amazingly, it was the same jeweller who had once set the stone for Heron-Allen, and in an attempt to reunite the stone with its one-time owner, he took the stone back to Heron-Allen. At a loss for what to do, Heron-Allen locked it away in seven boxes, each with lucky charms in between. It was kept locked up until it fell into possession of the museum. Hopefully, these purple stones might bring you better luck: Lot 636 Oval shape amethyst, 23ct Price Realised: £262.50 Lot 652 Assorted vari-shape amethysts, 26.03ct Price Realised: £180.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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The History of Child & Child Lot 289 – A late Victorian pendant by Child & Child. Price Realised: £944.24 Child & Child was founded by the brothers Walter (1840 – 1930) and Harold Child (1848 – 1915) in 1880. Their father was a pawnbroker in London, and after he passed he left them a significant inheritance which the brothers used to set up a manufacturing firm on Seville Street. Here, they registered as silver plate workers. Afterwards, they moved premises to 35 Alfred Place West in 1892, or, Thurloe Street today. When exiting South Kensington tube station, you can still see the company’s monogram of a sunflower with two C’s, decorating the plaster window keystone. On these premises, they continued to make and sell silver. However, they also began to produce the jewellery for which they are known today. In 1899 the partnership between the brothers was dissolved, with Harold Child continuing to trade until his death in 1915. In 1913 the firm had an impressive list of patrons including; Queen Victoria, King Edward VII, King George V, Empress Frederick of Prussia, and the Tsarina of Russia. The Style of Child & Child Lot 706 – An early 20th century brooch, by Child & Child. Price Realised: £299.00 As they were producing jewellery at the turn of the century, much of their work is inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement, as well as Art Nouveau pieces. Known for their stunning colours and sinuous lines, jewellery made by Child & Child is now held in many museums and is considered to be extremely collectable. Child & Child is easily recognisable: if you look at the reverse of your piece of jewellery, you should be able to see their maker’s mark. The same as the keystone at 35 Alfred Place, it shows a blooming sunflower, flanked by C’s. However, it is easy to spot a piece by them even without looking at the back. As you can see from our lots, Child & Child is defined by bright colours, greens, blues, and turquoise, in glowing enamel. A Pre-Raphaelite Patron Lot 481 – A late Victorian 9ct gold witches heart brooch, by Child & Child. Price Realised: £867.68 Among the lovers of Child & Child’s work was the Pre-Raphaelite artist – Sir Edward Burne-Jones. He lived not far from their premises and became a frequent visitor. In fact, his own ring which he wore on his little finger on his left hand, was a baroque, heart-shaped pearl, that had been set in silver by the brothers. Burne-Jones had a preoccupation with heart iconography. Therefore, much of the work commissioned by him featured a heart in one shape or form. As well as commissioning jewellery for his own collection, Burne-Jone also designed pieces for the firm. Although other Pre-Raphaelite painters such as William Holman Hunt took an interest in the work produced, they didn’t design for the company. The spirit of Child & Child jewellery closely resembled that of Pre-Raphaelite art. The bright colours and ethereal quality of the designs were similar to the Pre-Raphaelite colour palette and iconographic themes. It’s not unlikely to think that patronage from one of the leading artists at this time inspired the Child brothers to take further inspiration from this school of art. As the Pre-Raphaelites were so focused on spiritual themes, it seems that this may have also influenced the Child’s, particularly in their use of wings in their designs. Wings were also closely associated with Egyptian designs. Egyptian revival jewellery was especially popular at this period of time, and seemingly influenced the Child brothers as they produced winged hearts, pearls, and globes. Lot 428 – A late Victorian wings brooch, by Child & Child. Price Realised: £780.00 Child & Child at Auction If you would like to own your own piece of Child & Child jewellery it’s always worth keeping up to date with our auctions. We regularly see pieces come through our doors. Lot 701 Early 20th century pendant by Child & Child Price Realised: £689.00 Lot 753 Victorian butterfly brooch, by Child & Child Price Realised: £136.50 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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Origin of Hackmanite Hackmanite is a relatively ‘recent’ gemstone. Discovered at the end of the 19th century in Greenland during an expedition led by L.H. Borgstroem, specimens were then studied for years by the Finnish geologist Victor Axel Hackman. In 1901, as a recognition of his work, hackmanite was named after him. Deposits of better gem quality have since been discovered in Norway, Russia, USA, Canada, Brazil, Afghanistan, and Myanmar. This gemstone is found in nature in a variety of colours, mainly in different shades of purple, but also violet, pink, grey, and colourless. The hue is often uneven and white veins are common, due to the calcite content. Hackmanite’s chemical composition makes it a sulphur-bearing sodalite, distinguishable for its fluorescence and tenebrescence effects. Tenebrescence Hackmanite’s rarity lies in a fascinating optical property called tenebrescence. This gemstone’s body colour changes when exposed or concealed from certain wavelengths of light. Most commonly, hackmanite turns pink to purple/violet when exposed to ultraviolet radiation. This process is reversed and therefore the body colour fades if the material is exposed to white light sources, either artificial or sunlight. The colour acquired by the gemstones can last for several weeks or months. Although gemstones are often treated as soon as they are mined, this property can be completely lost if hackmanite is heated above 500°C, this is why oil treatment tends to be the preferred method to improve the clarity of faceted hackmanites. There are not many examples of high-quality faceted hackmanites on the market, most of them are part of institution or laboratory collections. Strands of beads or cabochons are the most common source of hackmanite in jewellery. At times, loose cabochons also come to the market. One of the lots in our Gemstones auction on 23rd October includes a quantity of these interesting gemstones. Hackmanite At Auction Lot 751 Assorted vari-shape hackmanites, 40.55ct Price Realised: £172.50 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Arianna Pedrazzoli BA (Hons), MLitt, FGA | Gemstone Manager
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Moldavite is a type of natural glass, more specifically, impact glass. It formed millions of years ago by the melting and cooling of rocks surrounding the location where meteorites impacted Earth.Originally, the name moldavite only identified the material coming from a specific site in Southern Germany, the Nördlinger Ries crater, where a meteorite impacted almost 15 million years ago.However, this is not the case today and moldavite is found in various locations.Moldavite has a distinguishing rich green to greenish-brown colour and typical inclusions due to its formation. Uses of Moldavite Humankind has used natural glass for thousands of years in the form of tools and ornaments,including in jewellery.Moldavite from sites close to the Nördlinger Ries crater is also known as ‘Bohemian moldavite’ and was found in pre-historic artefacts thousands of miles from its geographical origin, proving that this material has been appreciated and traded for a long time.A surge of interest in this stone characterises Czech jewellery pieces from the 1850s, a few examples are displayed at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague. Interestingly, recent testing on these pieces has proven that green glass has been used to imitate genuine moldavite since the 19th century. Moldavite Formation Tektite is the family name for the natural glass that formed when meteorites impacted Earth on silica-rich soil. The force of the impact caused the molten soil and rocks on Earth’s surface to be ejected into the atmosphere and subsequently fall back down on Earth. When re-entering the atmosphere, the cooling down process started and the tektites were shaped. The final impact on the Earth’s surface further moulded their appearance, especially in the case of moldavite, where the presence of water on the Earth’s surface caused the etches typically visible on rough specimens. Typical inclusions such as elongated gas bubbles, a wavy appearance, swirls, grains and long wires of lechatelierite* make moldavite’s identification easier. However, as for every popular gemstone, imitations are very common and their quality is increasing.Because of the formation process, large examples of moldavites are rare, especially faceted moldavite. In our Gemstone auction on 23 October, a beautiful intense green example of pear- shape moldavite, weighing 20.94ct can be admired. *Amorphous silica glass Lot 747 Pear-shape moldavite, 20.94ct Price Realised: £480.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online. Or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Arianna Pedrazzoli BA (Hons), MLitt, FGA | Gemstone Manager
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The world of jewellery is vast, and it can be difficult to know which pieces are special. One of the benefits of auctions is the specialists who meticulously pick out items that otherwise might be ignored. It’s easy for pieces with social and historical significance to slip through the cracks, such as these two fobs. Unassuming, though clearly beautiful pieces of craftsmanship, if it wasn’t for the trained eye, they may be written off. But on closer inspection, they hold an extraordinary secret. They once belonged to the Marquess and Marchioness of Ormond. The Marquess and Marchioness of Ormond Lot 552 – This seal belonged to Lady Elizabeth Harriet Grosvenor (1856 – 1928). Her father, Hugh Lupus Grosvenor, inherited the title of 3rd Marquess Grosvenor in 1869 and later became the 1st Duke of Westminster in 1874. At the time, he was widely regarded as England’s wealthiest man. The coronet featured on the seal suggests that it was commissioned and intended for use before Lady Elizabeth’s marriage to the 3rd Marquess of Ormond James Butler in 1876, as well as before her father’s elevation to Duke in 1874. As a result, it can be inferred that the seal was created between 1869 and 1874. Lot 553 – This fob shows the heraldic arms of James Edward William Theobald Butler (1844-1919), who held the title 21st Earl of Ossory until 1854. Later he assumed the position of the 3rd Marquess of Ormond, both within the realm of the Peerage of Ireland. Alongside his arms, it features those of his spouse, Lady Elizabeth Harriet Grosvenor (1856-1928), with whom he married in 1876. The 3rd Marquess marked the conclusion of his family’s legacy at Kilkenny Castle in Ireland. Recognised as prominent figures in high society, they held a residence at 32 Upper Brook Street, London. Interestingly, there is no crest on this fob, suggesting it may have been made for a woman’s use. Royalty at Kilkenny Castle The Marquess and Marchioness had strong links to the British Royal Family. Lady Elizabeth’s grandmother – Harriet, was a favourite of Queen Victoria. She was Duchess of Sutherland and she served as Mistress of the Robes several times. Furthermore, Elizabeth’s sister married the brother of Queen Mary. On James Butler’s side of the family, his mother – the previous Marchioness of Ormond, had been lady-in-waiting to Queen Adelaide. His sister, Lady Mary Butler was a bridesmaid at the wedding of Princess Louise and also served as Lady of the Bedchamber and Extra Lady in Waiting to The Duchess of Edinburgh. This relationship that the Marquess and Marchioness shared with the Royal Family is well-recorded. In anticipation of the wedding of their daughter – Lady Beatrice Butler, King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra hosted the Butlers and Beatrice a selection of gifts including a pair of diamond wings, an Indian shawl, as well as a blue enamel brooch. She also received gifts from extended members of the family. As mentioned, James Edward William Theobald Butler the 3rd Marquess of Ormond, was the last Marquess of Ormond to live at Kilkenny Castle. it was here that, along with his wife, he entertained King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra for three days as part of their eight-day tour in Ireland. It wasn’t for over a hundred years before a member of the Royal Family would return to Kilkenny, with the then Prince Charles and Princess Camilla who visited in 2017. The Fobs of The Marquess and Marchioness of Ormond at Auction Lot 552 Victorian gold enamel & agate fob, Lady Grosvenor Price Realised: £1,040.00 Lot 553 19th c. gold swivel fob for Lady Elizabeth Butler Price Realised: £1,118.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
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The fantastic thing about jewellery is that, because its so small, and can be easily tucked away – it is the perfect way of conveying hidden messages. In our upcoming jewellery auction, we have three lots that all contain a hidden message. In this blog we take a look at these lots and uncover their secrets. Morse Code Morse code, invented by Samuel Morse and Alfred Vail in the 1830s, is a communication system that, instead of letters and numbers, uses dots and dashes. It played a crucial role in long-distance communication, especially during telegraphy’s heyday. Today, it remains a fascinating piece of history and a symbol of communication innovation. The dots and dashes are formally known as dits and dahs. After it was introduced to the rest of Europe, it was realised that a new morse code would be needed in order to work with languages outside of English. International Morse Code was born. Can you uncover our hidden message? .– . .-.. .-.. / -.. — -. . -.-.– Lot 157 is a ring that uses diamonds in place of the dits and dahs. Let us know if you can translate it! Lot 157 Diamond Morse code band ring Price Realised: £377 International Code of Signal Flag The International Code of Signal Flags is a system used in maritime communication. Each flag represents a letter or a message. This means that ships can convey information such as weather warnings. This non-verbal language allows safety and communication among seafarers. At sea, you can imagine how using large, colourful, visual symbols such as flags, is a far more effective communication across boats. The alternative, shouting – perhaps, might result in a rather sore throat! Using flags to communicate is a long tradition, but it was standarised into this system in 1857. Can you translate the message on this brooch? Lot 505 9ct gold & enamel ‘International Code of Signal Flag’ brooch Price Realised: £97.50 Dearest Ring Dearest rings, sometimes known as acrostic rings, use gemstones or pearls to spell out words. Such as our ring, that spells “dearest”. It does so by using the first letters of the names of the gemstones: Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Topaz. Popular during the Victorian era, these rings served as sentimental tokens, with each stone symbolizing an emotion or attribute, making them cherished keepsakes of love and affection. Although those are the traditional gemstones, Amethyst and Topaz are sometimes swapped for Alexandrite and Tourmaline. Hidden messages such as these, in my opinion, are far sweeter than morse code or signal flags. Rings like these are a touching, romantic message shared between lovers and friends. While ours is a simple band, it was very popular for them to be styled after flowers. Acrostic rings can be used to spell many messages. While ‘dearest’ is the most common, during the Victorian period other popular words were adore or the French souvenir, or even a lovers name. Lot 813 9ct gold gem-set ‘Dearest’ ring Price Realised: £117 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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