Tag Archives: emerald

The ‘Beryl’ family includes gemstones that have the same chemical composition but differ in colour. All beryls are beryllium aluminium silicate, Be3Al2(SiO3)6 and the various colours are caused, as we have seen for other gemstones before, by the metallic trace elements that happen to be incorporated in the chemical composition of the growing crystals. When beryl crystals are pure, they will remain colourless. The green variety of beryl is the well-known emerald1. The blue variety is aquamarine2. The yellow is called heliodor3. The pink variety is morganite, and the colourless is called goshenite. Beryls have a hardness of 7.5-8 in the Mohs’ scale and are commonly used in jewellery. However, some care should be applied when handling and wearing them, especially if set in rings, as beryls are brittle stones and can chip easily. This was the reason why the emerald cut, a rectangular shape with the cut-off corners, was invented. This cut aims to show off the colour of the gemstones thanks to the rectangular-shape table. But also, to protect its corner from accidental damage. 1 The name emerald comes from the ancient Greek ‘smaragdos’ which meant ‘green gems’ 2 ‘Aqua’ means ‘water’ in Latin and ‘marina’ means ‘of the sea’ 3 ‘Helios’ means ‘sun’ in Greek. Beryls: Emeralds Amongst the so-called ‘precious’ stones, emerald is the most brittle and included. However, these features do not affect the lure that this green gemstone has had over the centuries. On the contrary, they give it character and make it even more interesting. History wants Cleopatra to be the first ruler to have loved emeralds and many stories about the jewellery she wore and gifted to dignitaries have reached us today. One of the myths about ‘Cleopatra’s emerald mines’ was confirmed in 1800s when one of the oldest emerald mines was discovered in the Egypt Desert in the mountain valley of Wadi Sikait. Although emeralds appear in literature fairly early and frequently, sources from this time can be misleading because the name ‘smeragdos’ was used for any green gem, emeralds as well as peridots and garnets, and later, in the XVI century, tourmalines were also confused with this beautiful gemstone. Nowadays, the most sought-after emeralds are mined in Colombia. Good-clarity emeralds are one of the most expensive gemstones on the market. The intense green colour is caused by the presence of Chromium (Cr), Vanadium (V) and Iron (Fe) within the beryl structure. If the colour is not intense enough, the gemstone would be called green beryl instead of emerald. The market request influences what hue is more appealing and an unbalanced concentration of the trace elements will cause either yellowish or blueish tints. Lot 191 Rectangular-shape emerald, 5.38ct Price Realised: £885.00 Lot 198 Oval-shape emerald, 3.64ct Price Realised: £180.00 Lot 192 Oval-shape emerald, 1.34ct Price Realised: £187.50 Beryls: Aquamarine Aquamarines have fascinated humans for a long time. There are many interesting myths about this blue gemstone believed to come from the sea. It was used to cure travel sickness as well as offered to the sea to calm particularly strong sea storms and is believed to soothe relationships. The chemical difference from emeralds is identifiable in the strong presence of Iron (Fe) which also explains why certain emeralds that have a stronger iron content tend to have a bluish-green hue. As for emeralds, the secondary hues of these gemstones can make a big difference in their value. If greenish-blue aquamarines used to be very popular, in the past decades the appeal has shifted to deepest blue colours. Brazil used to be the most renowned country for aquamarine mines. Especially, the Santa Maria aquamarines, so called from the name of the Santa Maria de Itabira mine. Today Africa is becoming one top areas for a quantity of aquamarine mined. Lot 225 Oval-shape aquamarine, 82.69ct Price Realised: £1,650.00 Lot 229 Rectangular-shape aquamarine, 2.81ct Price Realised: £150.00 Lot 234 Rectangular-shape aquamarine, 13.79ct Price Realised: £75.00 Beryls: Heliodor The yellow variety of beryl is called heliodor or in the trade sometimes ‘golden beryl’ if the secondary hue is a strong orangish-yellow. The colour is caused once again by the presence of Iron, as with aquamarine, however with a different charge (Fe3+). Although being chemically very similar to aquamarine, the value of heliodor on the market could not be more different. Lot 261 Pear-shape heliodor, 12.77ct Price Realised: £72.00 Lot 271 Oval-shape heliodor, 10.43ct Price Realised: £97.50 Lot 272 Rectangular-shape heliodor, 11.68ct Estimate: £40 – £60 Beryls: Morganite With its soft pink hue, this beryl is coloured by Manganese (Mn) and it was only recognised in its own right in 1911 by George Frederick Kunz who named it after his friend, client and gemstones collector J. P. Morgan. In the rough form, morganite often displays a salmon pink hue but as generally happens, crystals are heat treated to obtain a more appealing colour. In this case, the pink hues will become more prominent than the orange. These colour differences have also translated in gemstones coming from mines in Brazil or in Africa, with some morganites showing balanced peachy or pastel pink hues. The intensity of the colour is proven to be the most important feature for a morganite and will determine its price on the market. Lot 253 Pear-shape morganite, 8.73ct Price Realised: £247.50 Lot 259 Two briolette-shape morganites, 41.65ct Price Realised: £54.00 Lot 520 Assorted rough morganites, 328.07ct Price Realised: £180.00 Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Arianna Pedrazzoli BA (Hons), MLitt, FGA | Gemstone Manager
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Colombian Emeralds Not all gemstones are made equally! Some are far more desirable than others, for example, Sri Lankan, Burmese, and Padparadscha sapphires. However, when it comes to emeralds, it is Colombian emeralds that are world-renowned for their exceptional quality, rich colour, and unparalleled beauty. Mined from the country’s emerald-rich regions, particularly in the Andes, these gemstones have been coveted for centuries. The Muzo, Chivor, and Coscuez mines are the primary sources of these stunning stones. As a matter of fact, the Muzo mine is – to this day, the most important emerald mine in the world. Their unique geological conditions are what give these gems their distinctive green hue and high clarity. Because of this, the finest Colombian emeralds are considered to be among the most valuable and rarest gemstones in the world. They are often highly sought after by collectors, jewellers, as well as gemstone connoisseurs. Therefore, if you’re looking for a truly exceptional gemstone, a Colombian emerald will be an excellent and timeless choice. Emeralds have been officially mined in Colombia for over 500 years, and the industry has played a significant role in the country’s economy as well as culture. Because of this, the Colombian government has implemented regulations to ensure that the mining of these emeralds is responsible and sustainable. The History of Colombian Emeralds The first recorded emerald mines date back over 2000 years to Ancient Egypt in 330 BC. One of the most famous historical figures to love these green stones was Cleopatra. While she was Queen she claimed ownership of all the emerald mines in the Egyptian empire. To the Egyptians, emeralds were a symbol of protection, and they were believed to have the power to predict future events. In the Americas, archaeologists believe that pre-Colombian people such as the Muzo people, had been mining emeralds since 500 AD. This is apparent in their mythology and culture. There is one particularly important myth, the story of Fura and Tena, that firmly places emerald at the centre of cultural development. The myth goes that the supreme god, Are, created Fura and Tena to populate the world. They were promised eternal youth as long as they stayed faithful to one another – Fura, however, did not remain faithful. Eternal youth was taken away from them and they aged rapidly. Are then took pity on the pair, and instead turned them into huge cliffs in order to protect them from the elements. In these cliffs, the Muzo people found emeralds and believed them to be Fura’s tears. The two cliffs are considered sacred and are still the official guardians of Colombia’s emerald zone. In the 16th century, the Spanish conquistadors overpowered many of the indigenous people in the Americas and subsequently took over emerald mining. Colombian Emeralds at Auction Lot 293 Colombian Emerald and diamond ring Estimate: £10,000 – £15,000 Alongside this stunning Colombian example, we have several other emeralds in our auction. Our particular favourites are: Lot 29 Emerald & diamond earrings Estimate: £600 – £800 Lot 146 Victorian 18ct gold emerald & diamond ring Estimate: £500 – £700 Jewellery | 25th January 2024 Viewing times (ID required): London
  • Tuesday 16th January 12:00-19:00
  • Wednesday 17th January 10:00-16:00
Birmingham
  • Tuesday 23rd January 10:00-16:00
  • Wednesday 24th January 10:00-16:00
  • Thursday 25th January 8:30-10:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here. Valuations Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction. The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available. Find what you’re looking for Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more. Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details. Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
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By Alex Duffy, Jewellery Specialist at Fellows Auctioneers. Known historically as ‘smaragdus’, the ancient Greek word for green, emerald has long been admired and adorned. The first know mines can be dated back to around 330BC, where Cleopatra was known to have yielded the precious stone. Earlier recounts of ‘smaragdus’ do exist, but it is unclear whether these references actually relate to emerald or just other green materials. A Zambian emerald and diamond cocktail ring Legends associate emerald with a number of magical and healing properties, with the stone believed to bestow the wearer with foresight, protect against evil spells and even cure diseases such as malaria. One other property is that it was believed to restore ones eyesight and remove weariness due to the soft green colour. This actually has some truth to it, as green is scientifically proven to relieve stress and eye strain and in the words of Pliny the Elder, “nothing greens greener”. From a gemmological point of view, emerald is the verdant variety of the mineral beryl. The same mineral group that includes the precious stones aquamarine, heliodor and morganite. The luxurious green colour generally derives from chromium being present as an impurity within the chemical structure (Interestingly the same element which gives ruby its vibrant red colour). Vanadium is also known to cause green colouration in emerald, but typically it is the Cr rich beryl that produces the best and most sought after greens. A Colombian emerald and triangular-shape diamond three-stone ring. Unlike other gemstones, emerald is known for and generally accepted for its included appearance. The GIA classes them as ‘Type III’ stone, which is to say that they are almost always going to be included. Whereas like likes of ruby and sapphire can be considered low quality if they are seen to have internal fractures and inclusions, emeralds are expected to have these impurities. This is partly down to the formation of the stone, where crystallization can occur under extreme hydrothermal environments. The term ‘Jardin’ (French for garden), is sometimes used in relation to the clarity of emeralds, due to the mossy or garden-like appearance. Because of the high probability of inclusions being present, emeralds that are inclusion free are extremely scarce and high quality examples can demand huge prices. Emerald sources can be found all across the world, with Brazil, Zambia and India being some of the most historically productive localities. However, it is the gems yielded from the mountainous regions of Colombia that are the most famous and sought after. Known for their unrivalled luxurious, soft green hues, fine examples of these South American beauties can demand huge prices. A recent auction saw a ring set with a high quality 10.04cts Colombian emerald sell for just shy of £600,000!
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Emerald takes its name from the Latin word ‘Smaragdus’ meaning ‘Green Gem.’ Emerald is the green variety of the Beryl family, the trace element chromium being present in the deposit is what gives Emeralds their very distinct vivid green hues. The highest quality Emeralds are notably from Colombia, Zambia and Brazil, however the gem is found all over the world. An 18ct gold emerald and brilliant-cut diamond three-stone ring in Fellows’ 14th May Jewellery Sale One of the earliest mentions of Emerald mines is in Egypt at Mount Smaragdus from around 1500BC onwards, these mines produced the gems that were favoured by Cleopatra who adorned herself and her palaces with Emeralds. Emeralds were discovered in South America in the 16th Century by the Spanish, after over 500 years of use by the Inca’s, the Spanish traded their Emeralds for precious metals across Europe and Asia. It was said that Emeralds were placed upon early gem stone cutters benches to sooth their eyes after intense eye strain and concentration to restore their vision.Emeralds have been attributed to the richest green landscapes, including the Emerald Isle of Ireland and Seattle known as the Emerald City of Washington State USA. Emerald is traditionally gifted on a 55th anniversary, to represent eternity and commitment. Emma Testill, Jewellery Catalogue Manager at Fellows Auctioneers One of the largest un cut Emeralds in the world is the Colombian ‘Duke of Devonshire Emerald,’ weighing 1,383.93 carats, gifted from Emperor Pedro I of Brazil to William Cavendish in 1831. After being displayed at the Great Exhibition of 1851, this famous Emerald now resides at The Natural History Museum London. There is an assortment of Emerald pieces in all of our May jewellery sales.
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Fellows’ upcoming Fine Jewellery sale on Thursday 11th July features a beautiful 1970s 18ct gold diamond and gem-set ring, by Charles de Temple. Alex Duffy, Jewellery Specialist at Fellows Auctioneers, has been discussing the importance of his work. A pioneering figurehead of the 1960s modernist movement, Charles de Temple is revered as one of the influential designers in bringing bold and abstract jewellery to forefront of fashion. Along with the likes of Andrew Grima, his use of creative technical processes and sheer imagination birthed exquisite and outrageous designs, often inspired by nature, stylised and abstracted into decorative forms that became the trademark of the 60s and 70s. CHARLES DE TEMPLE – a 1970s 18ct gold diamond, emerald, sapphire and ruby ring. De Temple’s imagination made significant waves in fashion and pop culture of the time, notably having jewellery featured in the James Bond film franchise. The wedding band 007 presents to his lover in ‘On her Majesty’s Secret Service’, was a quintessentially unusual piece, skillfully crafted from the techniques he utilised so effectively. This iconic ring recently went to auction, selling for over £50,000 (£52,500 hammer price). That sought-after vision and creativity is displayed to great effect in Lot 240 of our upcoming Fine Jewellery sale. It features an undulating line of textured, recessed panels giving off an organic presence, scattered with emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds, providing bursts of colour and life. Recent years have seen surges in popularity for jewellery of this period, resulting in an ever-growing interest in the works of De Temple and his contemporaries. Their individuality and rarity increasing the likelihood that you won’t find another the same for many years. Keep an eye out for this vintage delight when it goes under the hammer in Fellows’ Fine jewellery sale on 11th July, with an estimate of £1,500 to £2,000. Alex Duffy, Jewellery Department at Fellows
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Our final Antique & Modern Jewellery sale before Christmas is sure to be one of the most fascinating auctions in the history of Fellows. There is a range of glamorous jewellery going under the hammer which will take your breath away. As well as a stunning ring from Graff Diamonds, estimated at £900,000 – £1,400,000, December’s sale has many other high-end items which you wouldn’t want to miss. Lot 175 is a diamond single-stone ring. It features brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 12.18cts. The beauty is estimated at £100,000 – £150,000. Lot 175 – A diamond single-stone ring. Estimate: £100,000 – £150,000. Continue reading →
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This month’s Antique & Modern Jewellery auction has a wide range of items, from single-stone diamond rings to a tiara, there are a lot of exciting pieces in this sale. Here our specialists share their favourite pieces: Continue reading →
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