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Diamonds are the birthstone of April and one of the most sought-after gemstones all year round. They have captivated us for centuries due to their brilliance and are now ubiquitous as gifts for milestones in our lives.
In diamonds, we have learned to look for the absence of colour and inclusions, which are two of the 4Cs we always hear about – colour, clarity, cut and carat weight. However, they are not only colourless but diamond crystals with a variety of hues can also be mined in nature. Coloured variants are not as well known for several reasons, not least, their rarity and incredibly high price tag.
Diamonds: Colour
Before delving into specifics, it is crucial to remember that diamonds are composed of carbon atoms arranged in a tight crystal lattice structure. When carbon is joined in the structure by other impurities, they might affect the speed of the light travelling through the gemstones and therefore the final colours that appear to our eyes. For instance, nitrogen is the most common impurity causing yellow and brown hues. Conversely, boron impurities can produce a blue colour.
Moreover, as with many other fascinating features developed in nature, the colour can also come from a defect in their structure. When the crystal lattice undergoes deformation from the high pressure essential for diamond formation in the Earth’s mantle, it can create ‘colour centres’. The same might happen if they are exposed to particular kinds of radiation. These ‘colour centres’ absorb specific wavelengths of light, resulting in a coloured appearance.
Colour can also be produced artificially, replicating some of these processes that occur in nature. The market for coloured diamonds is niche, although the promotion of the Argyle mine in Australia is a good example of coloured diamonds attracting the wider public attention and being sold as collector pieces by jewellery shops and dealers alike. This mine, mostly known for pink diamonds, has brought to light a variety of other colours such as champagne, cognac, blue, violet, and the rare red. Production ceased in 2020, which has arguably made diamonds from Argyle and of good quality, even more attractive.
Specimens with good colour saturation tend to carry very high prices, especially if they have been certified as fancy-coloured diamonds. If your budget is on the smaller side, you might find it interesting and more convenient to have a look at diamonds with another secondary hue, such as ‘brownish-yellow’ instead of yellow, or ‘purplish-pink’ instead of pink, as when set in jewellery it might result difficult to notice any secondary colour. The same happens for the cut of the diamond, when purchasing a shape that is not the classic round brilliant, the competition will not be as fierce and consequently it will be more convenient.
Diamonds: The Trends
A new trend might also be identified in the so-called ‘salt & pepper’ diamonds as well as the ‘tinted’ ones. Both highlight the natural features of diamonds, the ‘salt & pepper’ are heavily included diamonds that would normally be discarded from being set in jewellery but are now having a ‘revival’ moment due to more and more people appreciating the natural inclusions and imperfect look. Diamonds described as ‘tinted’ are part of the ‘cape series’ of diamonds and lack the saturation to be considered ‘fancy diamonds’. They can, however, sometimes show attractive yellow hues and are used in jewellery asa compromise with more expensive examples of fancy-coloured diamonds.
Diamonds at Auction
Lot 31
Assorted vari-shape ‘purplish-pink’ diamonds, 9.24ct
Estimate: £150 – £200
Lot 33
Assorted brilliant-cut ‘yellow’ diamonds, 8.01ct
Estimate: £120 – £180
Lot 69
Marquise-shape diamond, 1.14ct. With Anchorcert
Estimate: £700 – £900
Lot 73
Oval-shape ‘brown’ diamond, 0.56ct
Estimate: £100 – £150
Lot 74
Colour-treated diamonds, 1.22ct
Estimate: £50 – £80
Gemstones | Wednesday 1st May
Viewing times (ID required):
Birmingham
Friday 26th April 10:00 – 16:00
Tuesday 30th April April 10:00-16:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here.
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Arianna Pedrazzoli BA (Hons), MLitt, FGA | Gemstone Manager
Posted in Gemstones
Tagged auctioneers, auctions, birthstineblog, Birthstone, Diamond, diverse, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, Jewellery, manager, Ring, specialist
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Caterpillar Club brooches – insignia of the club that no one wants to join.
Caterpillar Club History
It is hard to find a fully corroborated account of who founded this mysterious club. The basis remains the same. After hearing about a test pilot who was saved by his parachute during a failed test in 1922, an idea was formed. Maurice Hutton and Verne Timmerman (reporter and photographer for the Dayton Herald) and H. H. St. Clair ( a parachute engineer for the USA government) founded the club to recognise those airmen who had been saved by parachutes. While some reports say that Leslie Irvin of Irvin Air Chutes was involved from the beginning, there is little documentation about how the club came to be. To this day, it doesn’t have any official website, officers, or chapters.
What we do know is that in 1926, the Irvin Air Chute Co. (now known as IrvinGQ) started issuing membership cards and golden caterpillar pins to those who had used their parachutes to escape from a disabled aircraft.
Over the years, there have been three Caterpillar Clubs from different parachute companies- Irvin, Switlik and Pioneer. Of these three, only the Irvin and Switlik clubs remain.
Club Membership
IrvinGQ has reported that by 1939, membership of the Caterpillar Club had risen to 4,000 and included people from all over the world. This number increased at an extreme rate during the Second World War. The company now estimates that the lives of at least 100,000 people have been saved by an Irvin parachute.
Interestingly, other clubs of this nature popped up during WWII. The Late Arrivals Club awarded its members a pin showing a boot with wings. This was to pay homage to the servicemen who bailed out of an aircraft behind enemy lines and walked back to safety. The Goldfish Club commemorated people who parachuted out over the water and relied on a dinghy for survival. It took inspiration from the Caterpillar Club and had as its sponsor P B Cow and Company of Farnborough who manufactured rubber aircraft survival dinghies, as well as other manufacturers of rescue dinghies. The Australian War Memorial website gives a lot more information on these clubs, as well as others.
A History of The Caterpillar Club
Caterpillar Club Brooches
How to Join the Club
A Caterpillar Club brooch (or pin) is literally a badge of honour for pilots who have been in the precarious situation of their aircraft going down. It is a testament to the aviator’s bravery and quick thinking during a dangerous situation. The Irvin website says that the only requirement to join is to have saved one’s life by an Irvin (IrvinGQ) parachute from a stricken aircraft. The club allows applications from both civilian and military personnel may apply. The exception here is that anyone who intentionally jumps from an aircraft may not apply. e.g. skydivers or parachutists. Anyone who does apply to become a member will need to give supporting evidence which Irwin will then verify.
Irvin does not charge for the membership application, nor for the gold brooches.
Design
The Caterpillar Club brooches, also known as pins, are distinctive pieces of jewellery which immediately identify the wearer as belonging to this rare and mysterious club. Unsurprisingly, those who have earned them, value them highly.
The IrvinGQ Caterpillar Club pins are gold in colour with red eyes. Reports vary as to the materials used in the production of this iconic pin. At Fellows, we have seen brooches with bodies made from solid gold or gilt; with eyes made from garnets or red enamel. We have found historic newspaper reports which mention eyes made from amethysts. However, we have never seen any such items through our auctions.
The caterpillar brooch is three-dimensional with ridges along the back. It is styled to depict the insect’s natural form. The design makes the viewer think of the movement of the animal and is quite realistic. To the reverse of the brooch, you will find an inscription of the recipient’s name, and sometimes rank where appropriate. The pin itself is extremely small, which makes the level of detail even more impressive. It is less than 2cm long and weighs less than 1g.
The Switlik Parachute Company has its own design. The silver brooches feature black enamel in the design of a caterpillar. In the black enamel, you can read the words “CATERPILLAR CLUB” in white relief on the front. This design does not tend to have inscriptions on the reverse.
While there have been a few different designs and issuers of these types of pins over the years, The Irvin Caterpillar Club brooches are by far the most prevalent.
The Mystery of Two Caterpillar Club Brooches
In an auction in May 2023, we have for sale a pretty intriguing lot. This lot features two Caterpillar Club brooches, both awarded to the same man. One brooch is solid gold with red garnets for eyes; the other is base metal with red enamelled eyes. You can find out about Flight Officer Stead’s amazing story on our blog.
The mystery of this lot is: why did one person have two brooches?
Theory one:
He was in the unenviable position of needing to be saved by a parachute twice.
We can disregard this theory on two counts. Firstly, there is no mention of any other incident where Stead was involved in a life-saving parachute incident. Secondly, we have spoken to historians and Irvin themselves who have said that once a member has been inducted into the club, they do not receive another pin.
Theory two:
Stead lost his brooch and the second one is a replacement.
When we spoke to Irvin, they did not have any record of a replacement being requested or issued. Their records are very detailed.
Theory three:
The base metal brooch was for everyday wear; the gold one was for formal occasions and mess dress.
We can’t find any supporting documentation for this theory or for RAF officers being given leave to adorn their uniforms with Caterpillar Club brooches.
Theory four:
Gold brooches were not awarded at the time.
This is the theory that holds the most water at Fellows HQ, for a number of reasons.
Firstly, due to the supply and manufacturing issues of the Second World War, the production of non-essential jewellery was prohibited during the 1940s. This gave rise to the introduction of the utility mark on wedding rings in the 1940s. Given the fact that these brooches were not essential items like wedding rings or even identification bracelets and cufflinks, they would not have been able to be produced under license in the UK.
We know this was a consideration for people applying to join the club from this clipping from a 1944 memo from the records of the 96th Bomb Group (US Army Air Corps) which specifically singles out the situation in the UK.
Fold3 – Reel B0191 Unit History 1944
We also have to take into account that, although the event that would have allowed Stead to become a member of the club took place in 1943, he was a prisoner of war until 1945. While it is possible that he could have applied for and received the brooch while in prison (see the example of Rolex sending watches to prisoners during WWII), a piece of gold jewellery may not have made it to him there.
While we may never know why this particular person had two brooches, it is fascinating to speculate and dig into the history of such a prestigious group of people. If you have any information or different theories, please send us an email to hello@fellows.co.uk
Caterpillar Club Brooches at Auction
We have had the privilege of selling a few Caterpillar Club brooches over the years. Why not take a look at some of the stories associated with these pieces of history?
A 9ct gold Irvin Caterpillar club pin awarded to Sgt Bernard John Warren 1851650, 103 sqn. On 23rd April 1944 from Elsham Wolds he was aboard a Lancaster III. They were hit by flak and Warren baled out of the aircraft using a parachute. He was taken prisoner at Stalag 357 Kopernikus. Read more.
Sold for £1,170.00 (including fees) April 2024.
Awarded to Flight Sargent Stanley Cranston Alldis, 57 Sqdn, while he was a bomb aimer aboard an Avro Lancaster Mk 1 11th November 1944. He was taken prison and held at Stalag Luft L7 Bankau.
Sold for £1,365 (including fees) January 2024.
Awarded to P/O C E Stead during an incident with a Lancaster Bomber on 3rd/4th of November 1943.
Sold for £2795 (including fees) in May 2023.
Awarded to Sgt. W. H. T. Farmer of the RAF due to an incident involving a Spitfire on 23rd July 1942. Sold for £2,169.20 (including fees) May 2022.
Awarded to Sgt Frederick Gordon Spanner of the Royal Canadian Air Force (RCAF). He received several medals during his career including the Distinguished Flying Cross.
Sold for £1,173.92 (including fees) April 2019.
Awarded to Sgt. M. Skubiszewski.
Sold for £1,531.20 (including fees) in November 2017.
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Alexandra Whittaker BA (Hons) | Head of Partnerships and Events
Posted in Antiques, Jewellery, Monies, Medals & Militaria
Tagged caterpillarclub, medal, medals, RAF, second world war, The Caterpillar Club, WWI, WWII
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Lady King was the wife of Sir Carlton King, a chief justice of the Indian Civil Service. They had three daughters and resided in Lucknow, Allahabad and Delhi, with summers spent in Nainital. Also known as ‘Fanny’, Lady King’s mother was related to two well-known Indian artists’ families: the Daniells and Princeps. After Sir Carlton King ended his career at the Delhi High Court, the Kings returned to England in the 1930s.
A photograph of Lady King
Lady King’s Earrings
These earrings show a typical torpedo-shaped drop Indian design of the 1830s and 1840s, featuring diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. We can assume from this style that they date from mid-nineteenth century India.
One of the oldest techniques, introduced to India by the Mughals and perfected by skilled Indian craftsmen, is the jadayi style. This is a technique of embedding gems into gold as a framework without using adhesive, typically with a foil backing. This is a laborious process taking many days of skilled, careful work. The floral design is typical of Indian work since the Mughal period. While these earrings are in this classical Indian style, they also show the European influence of the time by setting the diamonds in silver, with the coloured gems only set in gold.
19th c. diamond, pearl, ruby & emerald earrings, previously belonging to Lady King.
Indian Jewellery
This combination of an extravagant over-sized European design, mixture of metals, technique, and variety of gemstone cuttings can only be found at this one brief moment of a wonderful culmination of Anglo-Indian design.
The 18th century British Raj adapted their style to their surroundings. As it was acceptable to appear on equal terms with the Nawabs. Gifts were swapped between potentates and so a new wave of cultural exchange began. Precious stones were acquired, with one of the gains easily brought back to England as transportable currency.
Over time, more Ladies came to India in search of husbands. The desire was to follow European fashion but sending orders to London and back was not a timely enterprise. This led to the demand for locally made jewellery increasing.
Few European jewellers settled in India, with many of their workers themselves natives. In Bombay, in 1864 it was noted that there were 10,670 native goldsmiths, compared to twenty Europeans. Indian jewellers had a singular ability to adapt their manufacture to suit foreign influences. They were able to replicate the styles that had been presented to them.
The Popularity of Indian Jewellery
As Indian jewels made their way to England, the Empress of India had a significant appreciation for the styles and forms associated, along with the fashionable aesthetes who also collected the jewels. Notables such as John Ruskin favoured the cabochon cut, harking to the manual labour of the artisans and with Queen Victoria wearing ‘uncut’ gems, the fashion spread throughout the nation. Pieces bought from International Exhibitions by the South Kensington Museum (now known as the Victoria & Albert Museum) secured access to designs to a wider audience.
Soon, more recognised jewellers such as Giuliano adapted motifs, colours and forms, integrating Indian jewellery into the English mainstream.
In the early 20th century another resurgence of Indian taste hit European shores. In 1911 George V’s Coronation durbar in Delhi brought Cartier into contact with influential and fashionable Maharajahs. They brought swathes of Indian colour and gemstones to be re-set to European taste. These bright colours and bold, repeating designs complemented the emerging Art Deco style and re-invigorated interest in Indian taste.
Indian Jewellery at Auction
Lot 298
19th c. diamond, pearl, ruby & emerald earrings, previously belonging to Lady King.
Price Realised: £7,280.00
Fine Jewellery | Thursday 21st March 2024
Viewing times (ID required):
London
Monday 11th March 10:00-19:00
Tuesday 12th March 09:30-11:30
Birmingham
Tuesday 19th March 10:00-16:00
Wednesday 20th March 10:00-16:00
Thursday 21st March 8:30-09:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here.
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Ben Randall | BA (Hons), GG, AJP
Posted in Jewellery
Tagged auctioneers, auctions, Earrings, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, fine jewellery, indian jewellery, Jewellery, Lady King
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Arnaud Vincent de Montpetit was an esteemed portrait miniature artist, born and raised in the serene countryside of France.
Montpetit worked in both Bourg-en-Bresse and Paris. As his reputation grew he caught the attention of Royalty and the aristocracy.
He is known for evolving various processes such as Eludoric painting. The method of painting oils on fabric under a film of water and fixing the miniature inside the glass.
Arnaud Vincent de Montpetit signed his work ‘Montpetit’.
History of Portrait Miniatures
Portrait miniatures first appeared in the 16th century in the European royal courts. However, much later in the 18th century their popularity grew amongst the wealthy and royal. They provide an insight into the window of customs, fashions and the intimate lives of the subjects. They can be inscribed with thoughtful messages on the reverse.
Often set in precious metal and decorated with various gemstones from diamonds to paste. Intimate objects were often gifted to loved ones to demonstrate their loyalty or affection. Often sought after by soldiers who wanted to leave their likeness for their sweetheart or loved ones to cherish.
Artists who created these miniatures were usually masters of their craft. They were able to capture the finest details on a very small canvas.
Fellows are delighted to offer an 18th-century portrait miniature depicting King Louis XVI of France, signed Montpetit. Set in an 18ct gold and enamel surround in our upcoming Fine Jewellery auction.
Not only does this subject offer an interesting history, but the miniature is accompanied with a fitted case. The front of the case displays the arms of Charles Ferdinand D’Artois, the Duke of Berry.
King Louis XVI
Louis XVI’s reign was from 1774 until his death in 1792. His reign was to host significant events, noticeably the French Revolution. Portrait Miniatures of Monarchs are not just personal tokens, they are pieces of history through the eyes of the artist. This allows us to see more intimate and personal lives of the crown.
Louis XVI had a turbulent time on the throne. This was due to France’s involvement in the American Revolution war, along with a financial crisis.
There were several attempts at reform in the country, but unfortunately, the crown struggled to achieve any meaningful change. 1789 was the beginning of the French Revolution, the revolutionary forces demanded radical shifts. The King was accused of inciting an invasion of France by other European countries. This was an attempt to end the revolution to help him reclaim his control and power. Despite his defence and statements of innocence, the King was found guilty of high treason and was sentenced to death by Guillotine on January 21, 1793.
Duke of Berry
The Duke of Berry, Charles Ferdinand, was a member of the French royal family, born on January 24, 1778. He was the third son of the future King Charles X of France and his wife, Princess Maria Theresa of Savoy. As a member of the Bourbon dynasty, he was a grandson of King Louis, Dauphin of France, and thus, a nephew of King Louis XVI.
After the overthrow of the Monarchy in France, he lived in exile for much of his life. With the Fall of Napoleon, he returned to France with his Family.
His wife Princess Maria-Carolie of Naples and Sicily was known for her strong personality and royalist beliefs. The couple had two children together. Louise, who died in infancy, and Henri, Duke of Bordeaux, who later became known as Henry V.
Tragically, The Duke’s life was cut short when he was assassinated by a lone gunman named Louis Pierre Louvel on February 13, 1820, while leaving the Paris Opera with his wife.
Arnaud Vincent de Montpetit at Auction
Lot 763
Portrait miniature of Louis XVI, signed Montpetit.
Price Realised: £2,080.00
Fine Jewellery | Thursday 21st March 2024
Viewing times (ID required):
London
Monday 11th March 10:00-19:00
Tuesday 12th March 09:30-11:30
Birmingham
Tuesday 19th March 10:00-16:00
Wednesday 20th March 10:00-16:00
Thursday 21st March 8:30-09:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here.
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Lindsay Campbell | FGA, DGA
Posted in Jewellery
Tagged Arnaud Vincent de Montpetit, auction, auctions, Duke of Berry, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, fine jewellery, Jewellery, King Louis XVI, Montpetit, Portrait Miniatures
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Mrs Charlotte Isabella Newman (née Gibbs) (1836-1920) was a pioneering female jewellery designer and maker in the 19th century.
Mrs Newman’s Early life
As a young woman, she studied at the Government School of Design, at Somerset House in London (better known to us today as the Royal College of Art) and continued to educate herself, even travelling to Paris and further around Europe, taking inspiration from the various museums she visited on the continent.
Back in England, she began her career as an apprentice to John Brogden, a prominent goldsmith and manufacturing jeweller of the Victorian era. Brogden’s designs were inspired by archaeological and Renaissance artefacts. Isabella was equally captivated by these, and she took inspiration from the techniques of the past, incorporating them into the jewellery, such as granulation, which originated approximately 5000 years ago, and consists of covering a surface in granules of precious metal.
Brogden and Newman exhibited at the World’s Fair exhibitions in Paris, in 1867 and 1878. The 1878 fair was a particular success for them both, with Brogden being awarded the Légion d’honneur and Newman the Médaille d’honneur for her contribution to the work.
Mrs Newman’s
When John Brogden passed away in 1884, Charlotte started her own Jewellery business, incorporating many aspects of Brogden’s workshop, including some of the workers. Based in the bustling West End of London, and proudly bearing the name “Mrs Newman’s”, the business quickly took off, attracting the interest of various journalists.
Word spread quickly about this talented jeweller and goldsmith. Her reputation increased and she enjoyed commissions from far and wide- including one for the Empress of Russia, in 1899.
Mrs Newman moved her business in 1897 to 10, Saville Row. She continued to produce Jewellery there, keeping the window display sparse as she believed this would protect her designs from being copied.
Whilst Charlotte enjoyed many successes, she was often prevented from succeeding further in her work. She was barred from taking part in certain artistic organisations, purely due to the fact she was female. However, she was invited to give a lecture at the Royal Society of Arts in 1884, on the art of goldsmithing. She passed away in January 1920. However, her legacy as the leading ‘lady goldsmith’ of the Victorian era lives on, with her jewellery being featured in the William & Judith Bolinger Gallery at the V&A Museum in London.
Mrs Newman at Auction
Today Mrs Newman’s jewellery appears at auction infrequently. The scope of her inspiration led to her using a variety of gemstones and enamels, resulting in a fine range of pieces to suit many tastes.
Lot 388
Victorian gold aquamarine necklace, by Mrs. Newman.
Estimate £3,500 – £4,500
Fine Jewellery | Thursday 21st March 2024
Viewing times (ID required):
London
Monday 11th March 10:00-19:00
Tuesday 12th March 09:30-11:30
Birmingham
Tuesday 19th March 10:00-16:00
Wednesday 20th March 10:00-16:00
Thursday 21st March 8:30-09:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here.
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Helen Foster | BA (Hons)
Posted in Jewellery
Tagged auctioneers, auctions, Birmingham, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, fine jewellery, Jewellery, Mrs Newman
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Plastic Prisoner of War Rings
During World War II, prisoners of war had limited resources. Creative outlets were scarce, however, this only bred ingenuity. One example of this is plastic prisoner-of-war rings made by Allied POWs. These rings were often crafted from materials like Bakelite, a type of plastic that was commonly used at the time.
POWs would fashion these by carving, shaping, and polishing the plastic into rings that could be worn as jewellery or traded with other prisoners or guards. While conditions varied greatly depending on the camp and the treatment of the POWs, crafting items like these rings provided a creative outlet and a way to pass the time during internment.
Celluloid plastic rings, like those made of Bakelite, were also crafted by prisoners of war during this time. Celluloid was a type of early plastic that was widely used in the early 20th century for items such as jewellery, combs, and other small accessories.
Like the process for making Bakelite rings, POWs would have used whatever materials they could scavenge or obtain to create these rings. Celluloid was relatively easy to shape and mould when heated. As such, it would have been a suitable material for crafting jewellery in a prison camp environment.
Like other items made by POWs during wartime, these rings served multiple purposes. They could be used as personal adornments, traded for necessities or favours within the camp, or even hidden as keepsakes or mementoes of their time in captivity. Many of these rings, such as lot 957, would have a small photo of a loved one encapsulated within the plastic.
Prisoner of War Ring at Auction
Lot 957
Early plastic prison ring
Price Realised: £62.40
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
Posted in Jewellery
Tagged auction, auctioneers, auctions, Birmingham, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, Jewellery, pow, POW ring, POW WII, prisoner of war, prisoner of war ring, WWII
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The ‘Beryl’ family includes gemstones that have the same chemical composition but differ in colour. All beryls are beryllium aluminium silicate, Be3Al2(SiO3)6 and the various colours are caused, as we have seen for other gemstones before, by the metallic trace elements that happen to be incorporated in the chemical composition of the growing crystals. When beryl crystals are pure, they will remain colourless.
The green variety of beryl is the well-known emerald1. The blue variety is aquamarine2. The yellow is called heliodor3. The pink variety is morganite, and the colourless is called goshenite.
Beryls have a hardness of 7.5-8 in the Mohs’ scale and are commonly used in jewellery. However, some care should be applied when handling and wearing them, especially if set in rings, as beryls are brittle stones and can chip easily. This was the reason why the emerald cut, a rectangular shape with the cut-off corners, was invented. This cut aims to show off the colour of the gemstones thanks to the rectangular-shape table. But also, to protect its corner from accidental damage.
1 The name emerald comes from the ancient Greek ‘smaragdos’ which meant ‘green gems’
2 ‘Aqua’ means ‘water’ in Latin and ‘marina’ means ‘of the sea’
3 ‘Helios’ means ‘sun’ in Greek.
Beryls: Emeralds
Amongst the so-called ‘precious’ stones, emerald is the most brittle and included. However, these features do not affect the lure that this green gemstone has had over the centuries. On the contrary, they give it character and make it even more interesting.
History wants Cleopatra to be the first ruler to have loved emeralds and many stories about the jewellery she wore and gifted to dignitaries have reached us today. One of the myths about ‘Cleopatra’s emerald mines’ was confirmed in 1800s when one of the oldest emerald mines was discovered in the Egypt Desert in the mountain valley of Wadi Sikait.
Although emeralds appear in literature fairly early and frequently, sources from this time can be misleading because the name ‘smeragdos’ was used for any green gem, emeralds as well as peridots and garnets, and later, in the XVI century, tourmalines were also confused with this beautiful gemstone.
Nowadays, the most sought-after emeralds are mined in Colombia. Good-clarity emeralds are one of the most expensive gemstones on the market.
The intense green colour is caused by the presence of Chromium (Cr), Vanadium (V) and Iron (Fe) within the beryl structure. If the colour is not intense enough, the gemstone would be called green beryl instead of emerald. The market request influences what hue is more appealing and an unbalanced concentration of the trace elements will cause either yellowish or blueish tints.
Lot 191
Rectangular-shape emerald, 5.38ct
Price Realised: £885.00
Lot 198
Oval-shape emerald, 3.64ct
Price Realised: £180.00
Lot 192
Oval-shape emerald, 1.34ct
Price Realised: £187.50
Beryls: Aquamarine
Aquamarines have fascinated humans for a long time. There are many interesting myths about this blue gemstone believed to come from the sea.
It was used to cure travel sickness as well as offered to the sea to calm particularly strong sea storms and is believed to soothe relationships.
The chemical difference from emeralds is identifiable in the strong presence of Iron (Fe) which also explains why certain emeralds that have a stronger iron content tend to have a bluish-green hue.
As for emeralds, the secondary hues of these gemstones can make a big difference in their value. If greenish-blue aquamarines used to be very popular, in the past decades the appeal has shifted to deepest blue colours. Brazil used to be the most renowned country for aquamarine mines. Especially, the Santa Maria aquamarines, so called from the name of the Santa Maria de Itabira mine. Today Africa is becoming one top areas for a quantity of aquamarine mined.
Lot 225
Oval-shape aquamarine, 82.69ct
Price Realised: £1,650.00
Lot 229
Rectangular-shape aquamarine, 2.81ct
Price Realised: £150.00
Lot 234
Rectangular-shape aquamarine, 13.79ct
Price Realised: £75.00
Beryls: Heliodor
The yellow variety of beryl is called heliodor or in the trade sometimes ‘golden beryl’ if the secondary hue is a strong orangish-yellow. The colour is caused once again by the presence of Iron, as with aquamarine, however with a different charge (Fe3+).
Although being chemically very similar to aquamarine, the value of heliodor on the market could not be more different.
Lot 261
Pear-shape heliodor, 12.77ct
Price Realised: £72.00
Lot 271
Oval-shape heliodor, 10.43ct
Price Realised: £97.50
Lot 272
Rectangular-shape heliodor, 11.68ct
Estimate: £40 – £60
Beryls: Morganite
With its soft pink hue, this beryl is coloured by Manganese (Mn) and it was only recognised in its own right in 1911 by George Frederick Kunz who named it after his friend, client and gemstones collector J. P. Morgan.
In the rough form, morganite often displays a salmon pink hue but as generally happens, crystals are heat treated to obtain a more appealing colour. In this case, the pink hues will become more prominent than the orange. These colour differences have also translated in gemstones coming from mines in Brazil or in Africa, with some morganites showing balanced peachy or pastel pink hues. The intensity of the colour is proven to be the most important feature for a morganite and will determine its price on the market.
Lot 253
Pear-shape morganite, 8.73ct
Price Realised: £247.50
Lot 259
Two briolette-shape morganites, 41.65ct
Price Realised: £54.00
Lot 520
Assorted rough morganites, 328.07ct
Price Realised: £180.00
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Arianna Pedrazzoli BA (Hons), MLitt, FGA | Gemstone Manager
Posted in Gemstones, Jewellery
Tagged auction, auctioneers, auctions, beryls, Birmingham, emerald, emerald auction, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, gemology, gemstone auction, gemstones, gemstones auction, Jewellery
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Jeremy Bentham
What do you think of when I say the word: mummy? Perhaps you think of Tutenkamun’s funerary mask, and last-minute toilet roll Halloween costumes, or maybe (like me) you think of Brendan Fraser and Rachel Weisz. I doubt, however, that you think of 19th-century philosophers. Jeremy Bentham wanted to change that.
Immortalised in the corridors of UCL, sits the mummified body of Jeremy Bentham. Now a local celebrity among the students, Bentham was once known for more than just his corpse. During his lifetime he was a somewhat controversial but hugely influential philosopher, jurist, and social reformer.
Upon his death, he commissioned 26 mourning rings to be made. Our upcoming Fine Jewellery auction will feature one of these rings, dedicated to Dr Neil Arnott. This ring has been with the Arnott family since it was made, making this the first time that it has been open to the public to view and to bid. The hunt to collect these 26 rings has been ongoing for several years, we are delighted to have uncovered another!
Life and Work
Jeremy Bentham lived from 1748 to 1832 and is best known for his development of utilitarianism, a consequentialist ethical theory that judges actions by their outcomes in terms of pleasure and pain. Bentham’s early life was marked by precocious intellectual talent, evident in his enrollment at Oxford University at the age of just 12. He later pursued legal studies and was called to the bar, but his true passion lay in philosophy and social reform.
In addition to his renowned philosophy of utilitarianism, he played a key role in founding University College London (UCL). Bentham’s vision for UCL emphasized practical, secular education accessible to all, regardless of social or religious background. He championed critical thinking and the application of knowledge to societal issues. Though he didn’t live to see its founding, Bentham’s influence shaped UCL’s ethos as a pioneering institution committed to intellectual freedom and social progress.
Utilitarianism and Beliefs
Utilitarianism, Bentham’s most significant contribution, posits that the morally right action is the one that maximises overall happiness or pleasure and minimises suffering or pain for the greatest number of people. However, Bentham’s work extended beyond philosophy. He was notable in fields such as economics, politics, and law. He advocated for legal and penal reform, arguing for the reduction of unnecessary suffering in prisons and the justice system. His ideas influenced many subsequent thinkers, including John Stuart Mill, who refined and popularized utilitarianism in the 19th century.
Bentham was a staunch advocate for individual freedoms and civil liberties, arguing for the protection of rights such as freedom of speech, freedom of religion, and the right to participate in democratic governance. He believed that a just society was one in which individuals were free to pursue their interests as long as they did not infringe upon the rights of others. He was also one of the earliest people to speak out in favour of women’s rights, animal rights, and the decriminalisation of homosexuality.
Jeremy Bentham: Death and Auto-Icon
Bentham seemed to have a preoccupation with his mortality and eventual death. He wrote his first will and testament when he was just 21. Consistent with his utilitarianism beliefs, Bentham had a pragmatic approach to end-of-life.
He passed away on June 6, 1832, at the age of 84. Upon his death, Bentham left specific instructions for the preservation of his body through a process called auto-iconisation. Following his wishes, his body was dissected, embalmed, and dressed in his usual attire. His preserved skeleton was then encased within a wooden frame, topped with a wax head sculpted to resemble him. This auto-icon, as Bentham termed it, was intended to serve as a visual reminder of his ideas and principles.
Bentham’s auto-icon was initially kept in a wooden cabinet, but it now resides in a specially designed glass case at UCL. Visitors can view the auto-icon and contemplate the legacy of one of history’s most influential philosophers.
Originally, Bentham had requested that his mummified head sit atop his body. Unfortunately, the preservation process was unsuccessfully resulting in a rather scary sight. It was therefore decided by University administration, to keep his head in their archives – although they sometimes bring it out for special exhibitions!
The Mourning Rings
Among his slightly odd requests for his death, he also commissioned 26 mourning rings. They featured his silhouette and a lock of his hair. These rings have now been scattered around the world, with people hunting to find them! The 26 recipients of these rings were:
Dr Neil Arnott
Sarah Austin
Henry Bickersteth
Felix Bodin
John Bowring
Samuel Cartwright
Edwin Chadwick
Mary Louise de Chesnel
Richard Doane
Marie-Joseph Paul Yves Roch Gilber du Motier, Marquis de Lafayette
Albany Fonblanque
James Harfield
John Stuart Mill
General William Miller
Joseph Parkes
Francis Place
Jean-Baptiste Say
Thomas Southwood Smith
William Stockwell
William Tait
Thomas Perronet Thompson
John Tyrrell
José Cecilio del Valle
Jean-Sylvain de Weyer
Mary Watson
George Wheatley
We are delighted that our upcoming Fine Jewellery auction will feature one of these rings, once belonging to Dr Neil Arnott.
Jeremy Bentham’s Mourning Ring
This ring had been in Dr Neil Arnott’s family since it was first bequeathed to him in Bentham’s will. It came to Fellows by direct descent, meaning that this is the first time that this ring has been publically identified and has been open to the public to view and to bid. We are thrilled to offer to auction another one of these 26 historic rings. Similar rings have portraits of Bentham attributed to John Field.
Gold mourning ring, for Jeremy Bentham
Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000
Fine Jewellery | Thursday 21st March 2024
Viewing times (ID required):
London
Tuesday 12th March 12:00-19:00
Wednesday 13th March 10:00-16:00
Birmingham
Tuesday 19th March 10:00-16:00
Wednesday 20th March 10:00-16:00
Thursday 21st March 8:30-10:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here.
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
Posted in Jewellery
Tagged antiques, auction, auctioneers, auctions, Birmingham, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, jeremy bentham, Jewellery, Mourning Jewellery, mourning ring, watch, watches
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We often see mourning rings in our jewellery auctions. Normally, the story we try to uncover is about who the ring commemorates. This is especially true in the case of our Jeremy Bentham mourning ring. However, the story of Jeremy Bentham’s ring goes far deeper than this. Bentham had 26 rings made during his lifetime to commemorate, perhaps prematurely, his death. His will stipulated that these 26 rings would be given to 26 of his closest friends and family. Now, almost 200 years later, these rings are scattered throughout the world, and the hunt to collect them is well and truly underway. In our upcoming Fine Jewellery auction, we are excited to offer to auction one of these rings, dedicated to Dr Neil Arnott.
Dr Neil Arnott
Arnott’s relationship with Bentham is somewhat unclear. They ran in very similar circles and shared a close mutual friend – Sir Edwin Chadwick (another ‘ring-owner’), so it is presumed that Arnott and Bentham were also close friends.
Arnott, despite coming from a family of master bakers, was a renowned doctor and inventor. He studied at the University of Aberdeen before going to London to learn under Sir Everard Home. By the age of 18, he was appointed a full surgeon. He travelled to China with the East India Company where he worked as a surgeon, before he settled in London where he practised from 1811 – 1854.
Throughout his life he gained a national reputation, he gave lectures and published several works, was one of the founders of the University of London, and was made physician to the likes of the French and Spanish embassies, and in 1837, the Queen.
Despite being mostly forgotten for his work as a doctor today, Arnott definitely left his own mark on society. Whilst you would not be blamed for not recognising his name, I highly doubt you would not be familiar with his most famous invention: the waterbed. Yes! This cultural icon of the 70s dates back to 19th-century medicine. Arnott originally created it to prevent bedsores in those who were bedbound. This design later led him to invent a similar water-filled chair which aimed to prevent seasickness!
Arnott clearly made an impression on Bentham in order to receive one of these coveted rings. Around the band of the ring, you can read the engraving: Memento for Dr Neil Arnott.
Jeremy Bentham’s Mourning Ring
Dr Neil Arnott’s ring has been in the Arnott family since it was first bequeathed to him in Bentham’s will. As the hunt for these rings has been ongoing for many years now, we are excited that we are able to offer this ring, for the first time, to auction.
It came to Fellows by descent, meaning that this ring has never been available for the public to view or to bid. It is undeniably exciting to have discovered another one of these 26 rings, the puzzle pieces seem to be fitting together!
Gold mourning ring, for Jeremy Bentham
Estimate: £2,000 – £3,000
Fine Jewellery | Thursday 21st March 2024
Viewing times (ID required):
London
Tuesday 12th March 12:00-19:00
Wednesday 13th March 10:00-16:00
Birmingham
Tuesday 19th March 10:00-16:00
Wednesday 20th March 10:00-16:00
Thursday 21st March 8:30-10:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here.
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
Posted in Jewellery
Tagged 19th Century, antiques, auction, auctioneers, auctions, Birmingham, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, jeremy bentham, Jewellery, Mourning Jewellery
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZxgtNUfQTo
A rare, colonial Australian brooch has sold for under £10,000 at Fellows Auctioneers in Birmingham. Pieces with aboriginal details are infrequently offered for sale at auction. The item depicts an emu and kangaroo amongst native flora – a common theme in Australian Jewellery. Perhaps slightly more unusual is the incorporation of an aboriginal person. The piece garnered a lot of interest before the sale and, against an estimate of £500 – £700, the brooch sold for over ten times its estimate for a hammer price of £7,300 (£9,314.80 including fees).
After frantic bidding over two telephone lines, bidders in the room and online, the bids kept rising until an Australian buyer bought the fascinating piece of jewellery over the internet. This brooch was the highlight of Fellows’ monthly Antique & Modern Jewellery auction on Thursday 24th January 2019.
Alex Duffy, Jewellery Specialist at Fellows Auctioneers, said “The brooch is a beautifully crafted example of Australian colonial jewellery, a rare commodity for which modern-day Australians show a wonderful appreciation. Among the more common motifs of the emu and kangaroo, this particular piece features an Aboriginal person seated among the flora and fauna. This is something I have never previously come across in jewellery of this period.”
A Similar Example in 2024
In our upcoming Jewellery auction on January 13th, we have a similar example:
Lot 14
Australian brooch & pendant
Estimate: £70 – £100
Lot 14 in Fellows’ current Jewellery Timed Auction is an ‘Advance Australia’ pendant. Along with an early 20th century 9ct gold Australian Continent brooch. The pendant with marks to indicate 9ct gold, its length is 3.1 cm and its weight is 1.6gms. The pendant is in an overall good condition with surface scratches/wear in keeping with general age and wear. Its estimate is £70-100.
Jewellery | Day One & Day Two – Tuesday 13th & Wednesday 14th of February Viewing Times (ID required): BirminghamMonday 12th February 10:00-16:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here.
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Valentine’s Day Gifts
Valentine’s Day is just around the corner, and it’s the perfect time to show your loved one how much you care. Whether you’re in a new relationship or have been together for years, thoughtful Valentine’s Day gifts can make all the difference.
If you’re looking for gift ideas, there are plenty of options. A classic bouquet of roses is always a romantic choice, but you could also consider something more unique, like a personalized photo album or a piece of jewellery.
Of course, here at Fellows, we would always suggest a piece of jewellery! And so today we’ve asked some of our members of staff to pick out items from our upcoming sale that they would like to receive, hopefully to give you some inspiration!
Valentine’s Day Gifts: Our Team Picks
Patricia’s Pick:
Eros is the Greek god of love, can’t think of a better sentiment to receive on Valentine’s Day than Cupid himself.
Lot 1007
9ct gold Eros pendant
Estimate: £90 – £140
Georgie’s Pick:
I love the design of the Irish Claddagh ring, but I also like what the ‘Heart in hands’ represents – Love Loyalty and Friendship. This ring would remind me of the people I care for and love. Especially my family, including my grandparents who were Irish.
Lot 668
9ct gold claddagh ring
Estimate: £100 – £150
Krishna’s Pick:
The heart pendant with its intricate design featuring birds and a floral chain is stunning. I believe it’s a beautiful statement piece that could effortlessly elevate any outfit. Also, the combination of the ruby’s deep red hue and the symbolic elements of birds and flowers make it a uniquely special and romantic choice.
Lot 282
Synthetic ruby & paste necklace
Estimate: £1,000 – £1,500
Eve’s Pick:
The timelessly elegant design of this bangle, complete with two split pearl intertwined hearts, makes it a lovely gift for Valentines Day. The simplicity of the bangle makes it a versatile piece, while the hearts serve perfectly as a symbol of love. Representing purity, loyalty, and serenity, with associations to Aphrodite, the goddess of love, the beautiful split pearls create a complete essence of romance, conveying love, and devotion.
Lot 1027
Split pearl double heart bangle
Estimate: £150 – £200
Jewellery | Day One & Day Two – Tuesday 13th & Wednesday 14th of February
Viewing Times (ID required):
BirminghamMonday 12th February 10:00-16:00
Virtual viewings are available by request. Virtual viewings are the ultimate personal shopping experience. Using Zoom, you can ask us whatever you need to know in order to buy with confidence. Find out more here.
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Patricia Preuschoff | Catalogue Manager, Handbags and Accessories
Georgie Fellows | Designer Assistant
Krishna Vara | Social Media Executive
Eve Darby | Jewellery Administrator
Posted in Jewellery
Tagged auction, auctioneers, auctions, Birmingham, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, Jewellery, Valentine's Day, valentines, watch, watches
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So you’re thinking of popping the question and tying the knot? What should you look for when buying an engagement ring? The most important thing to consider when buying a ring is your paramour’s taste. Whether you go for a regal sapphire and diamond cluster ring or a classic diamond single stone ring make sure you consider their taste. Many people nowadays propose with a small “promise ring” and then pick the forever ring together.
If you would like to pick the ring yourself, there are important factors to consider. It might be worth talking to a close friend or family member.
Ask yourself:
a) What type of jewellery does your loved one currently wear?
b) Do they favour silver, yellow gold or platinum pieces?
c) Have they mentioned whether they like the idea of an antique piece with history?
d) Do they have a favourite colour? Maybe you can incorporate that into the ring.
Diamond Engagement Ring Top Tips from Our Experts
When buying diamonds, you are advised to consider the “four cs”
Carat – You will see this abbreviated to “ct” in descriptions.
Clarity – The best clarity is IF (internally flawless, meaning there are no inclusions visible even to the most experienced grader) and the most included stones are described as I3 (obvious inclusions, visible to the unaided eye).
Colour – the most perfect and expensive diamonds are “colourless”. It is also described on a scale with the rarest colour being D and the more tinted stones coming in at M and N.
Cut – The modern round brilliant cut is by far the most popular cut when it comes to diamonds but the emerald cut (rectangular) is also popular.
Which Gemstones to Pick for Your Engagement Ring
To make it even more personal and special you could pick the stone that is associated with the month in which your loved one was born. Some gemstones are less suited for everyday wear than others. Here are some that will hold up to the rigours of daily life:
Sapphire (You can get many colours)
Ruby (Red)
Diamond (White or coloured)
Emerald (Green)
Topaz (Light pink or yellow)
Morganite (Pretty pink colour)
Amethyst (Purple)
Tourmaline (Green, Red or Watermelon)
Spinel (Red)
Sizing Your Engagement Ring
Ensuring you get the right size ring for your loved one can be daunting. Luckily for you, we are here to help. We have put together a ‘Ring Size Guide’ that gives you the option of finding the correct ring size with or without your partner knowing.
All you need to do is click the link here to visit our ‘Ring Size Guide’ with a downloadable PDF to help.
The team at Fellows are always happy to provide extra photos of rings on hands to give you more of an idea of what it would look like too.
Engagement Rings at Auction: Our Expert’s Top Picks
Lot 4
Diamond single-stone ring
Price Realised: £507.00
Lot 65
Platinum diamond cluster ring, with diamond shoulders
Price Realised: £1,625.00
Lot 263
18ct gold diamond & sapphire three-stone ring
Price Realised: £676.00
Lot 423
A diamond five-stone ring
Estimate: £1,200 – £1,800
Lot 590
Early 20th century vari-cut diamond cluster ring
Price Realised: £247.00
Lot 997
Diamond ring
Estimate: £200 – £300
Talk to an Expert
The jewellery team at Fellows are happy to help in any way possible, from advising on what would fall inside your budget to finding the perfect ring.
Email: hello@fellows.co.uk
Phone: 0121 212 2131
Check out our upcoming auctions here.
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
When you think of luxury jewellery, gold, and gemstones, I highly doubt that you also think of…frogs, understandably. However, these small green amphibians, have a long history and relationship with humans. As such, the image of them is sprinkled throughout human culture all around the world. Frogs have made their way into our literature, our art, and even our jewellery. Today, we’re going to dive into the history of frog jewellery, and perhaps inspire you to invest in your own little piece of cultural history.
Symbolism of Frogs Throughout History
When looking back on history, frogs crop up as having symbolic meaning throughout the world and at different points in time. In Native America, frogs represented wisdom and wealth. In Chinese culture, the frog spirit Ch’ing-Wa Sheng is associated with good luck in business. The ancient Egyptians believed in the frog-goddess Heqet, and in classical antiquity, frogs were associated with Aphrodite.
Aztec frog neck ornaments. Image credit to The Met Museum in New York
However, for the most part, humans tend to associate frogs with water sources. For example, in Ancient Mexico, the Aztec people associated frogs with rain and water. These associations lend themselves well to the idea of rejuvenation, life, and fertility – a common theme throughout frog-based mythology. It is also believed that the Aztec people interpreted frogs’ crouching position, as similar to women during labor and childbirth.
This association of frogs with fertility is one of the most prominent throughout the ancient Americas. Because of this, frogs are quite a common motif throughout the different civilisations. We see frogs in the Coclé, Moche, and Chiriquí cultures. The Met Museum in New York has a fantastic collection of ancient jewellery and quite a few pieces include frogs!
Frog Jewellery at Auction
We regularly see frog-themed jewellery come through our auctions. Today these pieces are mostly novelties, they lack the same symbolic quality as the ancient pieces. However, they still are charming additions to any jewellery collection and a sweet nod to humanity’s long and complex relationship with these four-legged amphibians.
Lot 209
Diamond set frog earrings
Estimate: £2,500 – £3,500
Lot 219
18ct gold garnet frog brooch, by E. Wolfe & Co.
Estimate: £1,400 – £2,000
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
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Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
Posted in Jewellery
Tagged antiques, auction, auctioneers, auctions, aztec, celtic, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, frog jewellery, frog symbolism, frogs, history, history of jewellery, Jewellery, native american, symbolism of frogs
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The Vienna Secession
The Vienna Secession was founded in 1897. It was a revolutionary art movement in Vienna, Austria. It emerged as a response to the academic constraints of traditional art and aimed to break free from conventional norms. This is similar to the ideas of the Arts & Crafts movement which mainly took place in England. The Secessionists, who included artists like Gustav Klimt, believed in the autonomy of art. They emphasized the need for innovation as well as individual expression. They sought to create a platform for avant-garde artists to explore new styles and ideas.
The Secessionists embraced various art forms, including painting, sculpture, and architecture, fostering a collaborative and interdisciplinary approach. One of their most iconic achievements was the construction of the Secession Building, a unique structure designed by Joseph Maria Olbrich, featuring a distinctive dome covered in golden laurel leaves.
Wiener Werkstätte
Two of the founders of this movement, Koloman Moser and Josef Hoffmann, went on to create the Wiener Werkstätte in 1903: literally, Vienna Workshops. The workshops brought together a diverse group of artists, including architects, designers, and craftsmen, to nurture collaboration and innovation.
Influenced by the ideas of Gesamtkunstwerk, or total artwork, the Wiener Werkstätte aimed to create integration between various artistic disciplines, such as architecture, furniture, textiles, as well as graphic design. Renowned for their distinctive geometric patterns and sinuous simplicity, creations from these workshops became synonymous with the Art Nouveau and later the Secessionist movements. One area that flourished at these workshops, was jewellery. Characterised by geometric shapes and vibrant enamel work, the Wiener Werkstätte’s jewellery showcased a harmonious blend of fine craftsmanship and artistic innovation. The jewellery embraced modern aesthetics, rejecting the ornate styles of the past.
Much like Arts & Crafts and Art Nouveau, Wiener Werkstätte’s impact extended beyond Austria, influencing the development of modern design internationally. However, financial challenges and the upheavals of World War I led to the eventual dissolution of the Wiener Werkstätte in 1932. Despite its relatively short existence, the Wiener Werkstätte left an enduring legacy, shaping the trajectory of 20th-century design and emphasizing the importance of craftsmanship in the artistic process.
Wiener Werkstätte at Auction
Lot 16
Silver gilt gem necklace, by the Wiener Werkstätte
Price Realised: £3,315.00
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
Posted in Jewellery
Tagged antiques, auction, auctioneers, auctions, Birmingham, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, Jewellery, vienna, vienna secession, watch, watches, Wiener Werkstätte
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The Caterpillar Club
The humble Caterpillar Club brooch. Measuring no more than 2 centimetres, these miniature lapel pins may seem unassuming. But if you take a closer look, if you perhaps turned one over, and if you look closely at the reverse – you will see a name. Behind that name, there will undoubtedly be a story. Here at Fellows, we have been privileged enough to tell four of these stories and this January for our Jewellery auction we’re able to tell a fifth.
These brooches, gold with garnet eyes, were awarded to those people who bailed out of an aircraft and subsequently survived through the use of a parachute. More specifically, an Irvin Air Chute parachute. Because they are inscribed with the name of the person who jumped, we are often able to trace that person through military records to find service numbers and details of the event.
As a matter of fact, just last year we were able to trace the life of C E Stead. Not only did we uncover more about his life before he joined the RAF, but we were able to find a first-person account of the incident that earned him his place in this elusive club.
S. C. Alldis
The most recent pin that we are fortunate to put to auction once belonged to S C Alldis, who we believe to be Stanley Cranston Alldis, service number: 1398378.
Alldis was born in Sussex, in 1922. By the time WWII began, he would’ve been just 17 years old. He returned home at the end of the war and later married his wife, Brenda, in 1953 at age 31. He passed away aged 79 in 2002.
While we might not have that much information about Alldis and his life at home, we do know that in 1957 he was awarded the Air Force Cross, examples of which we have seen in previous auctions.
11th November 1944
On the 11th of November 1944 at 16:54 an Avro Lancaster MK 1 took off, carrying seven men from No. 57 Squadron.
Their names were Samuel Bowden (pilot), Lewis Wolfe Nagley (navigator), Cyril ‘Titch’ Bayford (air gunner), Sidney Charles Green (air gunner), Arthur Brett (flight engineer), James Aloysius McLaughlin (wireless operator), and Stanley Cranston Alldis (bomb aimer).
Image credit to the Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre
They departed from East Kirby for an operation against the Rhenania-Ossag oil refinery in Hamburg. Just over two hours later, at 19:27 the Lancaster was hit with exploding shells fired from the ground. On the first impact, the flak hit one of the engines and a rear turret which were subsequently torn off.
Image credit to the Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre
The remainder of the aircraft bounced and flew for over a kilometre until it finally crash-landed just outside Hamburg, near Beckdorf. Five out of the seven men on board were unfortunately lost to this accident.
It is believed that the two survivors bailed out of the aircraft via parachute; Lewis Wolfe Nagley and Stanley Cranston Alldis, both men were then taken prisoner of war.
In 2009 after over 60 years of research, the son of Cyril Bayford – the air gunner on board, was eventually able to track down the site of the crash. Consequently, he enlisted support from eyewitnesses and locals from the surrounding area, and with the assistance of an archaeologist, they were able to excavate the remnants of the plane crash. They found hundreds of items, including the pilot’s watch strap which was then returned to his family and given to his great nephew. Many of the items on board have now been returned to East Kirkby. These items are now part of the collection at the Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre.
Sgt S. C. Alldis’s Caterpillar Club Brooch
Shortly after bailing from the aircraft, Alldis was taken to and held at Stalag Luft 7 Bankau, near Kreuzburg. He was only 22 years old.
Owing to this incident, Alldis earned a place in the Caterpillar Club.
Our first Jewellery auction of the year will feature his brooch that commemorates this undeniably brave feat.
Lot 55
Gold World War Two Irvin Caterpillar Club brooch
Price Realised: £1,365.00
Our Antiques specialist, Alison Snowdon said: “We are thrilled to have had another Caterpillar Club consigned for our upcoming jewellery auction. Awarded to Stanley Cranston Alldis, this little gold brooch marks a moment of bravery with a life saved by the use of a parachute“.
Previous Caterpillar Club Brooches at Fellows
Lot 594
Two WWII ‘Caterpillar Club’ badges, engraved ‘P/O. C E Stead’, one gold
Price Realised: £2,795.00
Lot 17
A 9ct gold red enamel ‘Caterpillar Club’ badge, engraved ‘Sgt. W. H. T. Farmer’
Price Realised: £2,169.20
Lot 4
A gold ‘Caterpillar Club’ brooch
Price Realised: £1,173.92
Lot 11
A ‘Caterpillar Club’ brooch
Price Realised: £1,531.20
Valuations
Our valuations are free, with no obligation to sell with us. Our experts will value your item with an estimate, so you can find out what it could achieve at auction.
The process is simple. You can fill in a form online or book an appointment to visit either of our offices in Birmingham or London. Virtual valuation appointments are also available.
Find what you’re looking for
Make sure you don’t miss finding that special something by signing up to our email alerts. You’ll be the first to know when catalogues become available, receive invitations to special events and preview the hottest lots from our auctions, plus much more.
Why not use our free personal shopping service? Sign up for lot alerts and tell us exactly what you are looking for. Each time we upload a catalogue, we search for your keywords and email you lots matching your interests. Your personalised email will include images, lot descriptions and auction details.
Cordelia Porter | Research Coordinator
Posted in Antiques, Jewellery
Tagged antiques, auction, auctioneers, auctions, Birmingham, caterpillar club brooch, caterpillarclub, Fellows, fellowsauctioneers, Jewellery, militaria, The Caterpillar Club, watch, watches, ww2, WWII
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Diamonds – April Birthstone